esucaris1

Does anybody have this problem??? About every week and a half my 93 gets hot... I never see coolant on the ground or out the exaust... I have to add about a quart and a half to top it off...I have already replaced the radiator when the top tank cracked and replaced the rad cap and the water outlet cap... I now suspect that hydraulic cooling fan abortion...

92ES5sp

The fan should always run at either high or low speed. It should never not run. At the diagnostic connector jump the E1 and OP1 terminals with the key on. The fan should blow air like a wind tunnel.

You better be careful with running your engine hot, cuz if you keep doing it youll blow a head gasket. You might already have a leaking head gasket or cracked head if you have to keep topping off and see no external leakage. Id do a compression test asap

esucaris1

Well I just had the car checked for head gasket leakage with block checker a liquid solution to find traces of combustion gas in the radiator, and nothing there... Also jumped the terminals E1 and OP1 fan blows high speed... If it solves the heating problem I may go to electric fans... As far as a compression test goes it wont tell me anything as there is no miss engine runs very smooth...

92ES5sp

Have you checked the water pump? Its just wierd that you have to keep adding coolant and see no external leakage... Usually thats got blown head gasket written all over it. Um.... you could psi test the system and test both pressure caps too.. You could also take the #2 cap off (not the rad cap) and fill it and run the engine to bleed the system.

esucaris1

Well since I recently purchased the car I will be replacing the timing belt and w pump... by the way thanks for the help... Between all of us I'll get it figured out

SirSamII

Hello, can you tell me if replacing the water pump fixed your problem or not? I'm having the same problem except there are no leaks & I never have had to add any coolant its always topped off. I've replaced thermostat & even ran without it to rule it out & it still overheats. I'm completely stumped & am trying to figure out what to do next. I've even taken off timing belt covers ran engine & looked down inside at water pump to look for leaks & nothing at all, I have a SC400, thanks.

esucaris1

Well I haven't changed it yet... but if you never have to top off the coolant and no leaks what makes you think you have a overheating problem?

SirSkrip

How many miles do you have on that 93? That is a 14-15 year old car... just assuming its getting old and going bust on the enigine perhaps (depending on mileage)?

esucaris1

153k runs great... getting it pressure tested this week to confirm waterpump leakage... however I am doing the timing belt anyways will do wp at that time also

SirSamII

Answer to your question, is because dash gauge is reading hot after a few minutes of driving it tops out.

Update:

I took it to a local mechanic to see what he had to say so i could narrow it down, it turns out he replaced the thermostat & said that he had to bleed the air out which is what was causing it to overheat. This is were i am confused, because I have taken off the inlet housing before when I replaced my alternator & power steering pump & it has never overheated on me before or after that. Are there any mechanics on these forums that can explain or verify this for me, & if so how do you bleed the air out of the system. Thanks.

esucaris1

you let it run with the housing cap off and watch it bubble the air out... keep adding coolant slowly as it goes down...took me about 10 min... also sqeezeing the upper hose slowly will assist in removing the air...add coolant as you release pressure on the hose...

esucaris1

It would seem that my overheating problem is under control (knock on wood) I must confess I was lured into buying a yes I will use the word "cheap" radiator... a bargain? at 96 bucks... I dont think so... the parts man assured me that a one row with 5/8 tubes was the equivalent of the oem radiator with 2 rows of smaller tubes at half the weight...Yeah sure it is... After extensive ghost chasing I am left with taking the original radiator to the shop for less than I spent for a replacement that didn't work... and the fact is that waterflow isn't the only cryteria metal mass is very important as well... the original radiator has more metal to help dissapate the heat... Today I drove the car 45 miles ac on and no problems...If it overheats after this post I'm selling the car and buying a moped...

ta1972

iTrader: (1)

I'm having the same problems of overheating with my 92 es too.I've changed the radiator,thermostat,timing belt with water pump and bypass the heater core to run it just thru the engine to the radiator and still over heats. I don't see any smoke coming out of my tailpipe nor looses any coolant except when it overheats the coolant shoots out thru the coolant overflow and i loose coolant that way. The funny thing is when i bought the car it drove fine for about a month then the overheating started happening when i was in traffic,so i assumed it was the thermostat and went ahead of replacing it. The car drove fine for about couple of months and the problems happend again. The thing that i noticed is when i have the car idleing the car don't overheat. I checked and squeezed the upper radiator hose when it was idling the hose didn't seem like there is no restriction,but when i drove the car for about 30 to an hour i saw the temp shooting up slowly,so i pulled over and poped the hood and noticed the upper hose was really fat,like it was about to pop. Only time i noticed that it doesn't overheat is when the hose is normal size and i could still squeese it. It only overheats when the hose gets really fat and seems like something is causing it from flowing. I'm really stumped with all this and my next move is to remove the thermostat and to see if that helps. Anybody please help if there having the same problems that i'm having and to see if they took care of this type of problems

92ES5sp

Pressure test the cooling system first. Id check your oil to see if its got coolant in it. If it does, youve probably got a blown head gasket. Doing a compression test will verify that. Maybe you new water pump is bad who knows? A mechanic would have to look at it. I wouldnt run the engine without the t-stat, the pcm will stay in open loop too long and fuel mileage and drivabilty will suffer. And dont let it overheat any more cuz if dont have a blown h.g. yet you will soon. Does the fan run?

esucaris1

I wasn't sure where my coolant was disappearing to so after exausting every avenue including having a block check done, a new radiator (a single core), rodding out the original radiator (a double core), new waterpump, a new thermostat, new caps 2 sets of them (the first ones wouldnt hold pressure), a new wateroutlet housing the old one was pitted where the cap sealed against it, a new thermo housing the old one had corosion where the o-ring seals the lower hose tube... all that to no avail it still overheated... It was Desperate times for me... So I used some Sodium Silicate also known as liquid glass (2 jars about 22 bucks)... You can get it from some drug stores (I found mine at Rexall Drugs) FYI sodium silicate does not mix with antifreeze you MUST flush all antifreeze before sealing leaks... however after running the engine for a couple hours you can THOROUGHLY flush the sodium silicate and add coolant... I had used sodium silicate once before on a old 64 International scout that had a bad head gasket so bad the water was in the oil... It sealed that leak and I drove it for 2 yrs... I also had to remove the intake to replace the knock sensor... there was major evidence of gasket failure as the gaskets were disinigrated around the water ports... The intake was coated with s-silicate beyond the sealing edge of the gaskets but it never overheated ...