transmission shudder
#1
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Join Date: Dec 2001
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transmission shudder
I have a 96 ES300 with 60K and the trans shudders a little bit as it goes from 1-2 and 2-3. I have never had the trans serviced, or had the fluid replaced. Has anyone else experienced this?
#3
Mine judders too... when i first got it I am sure it never used to do it... the fluid is at the correct level and is clean
Maybe i am thinking about it to much and it seems worse than it is.
I hope there is nothing wrong with mine!
Maybe i am thinking about it to much and it seems worse than it is.
I hope there is nothing wrong with mine!
#4
I checked my fluid and it is full. I noticed mine only does it from a full stop and when I gun it real hard. It studders when first gear starts. It doesnt do it at all from first to second or the other gears. Strange. I hope someone knows what the cause is and if it is serious or not.
#5
I had a problem with a worn engine stabilzer bar on the top of the engine.. it caused the engine and tranny to move around alot (6 inches backwards and forwards when pulling away) and since i replaced this it did not seem to bad afterwards... but i feel the bottom stabilzer is warn too. When i take it very steady without too much gas the tranny doesnt seem to judder... on normal pull away it does judder.
I will check out the bottom stabilzer to see if worn.. if the engine is moving about more than it should normally then it will judder.
Here is a pic of the top stabilzer... this split caused a whole lot of problems with m engine and tranny box moving around alot!
I will check out the bottom stabilzer to see if worn.. if the engine is moving about more than it should normally then it will judder.
Here is a pic of the top stabilzer... this split caused a whole lot of problems with m engine and tranny box moving around alot!
#6
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MY CAR DOESNT DO THAT BUT WHEN I REV IT UP AROUND 3000 RPM MINE MAKES A FUNNY NOISE.
MY CAR ALSO HAD A BAD SUPPORT BAR IT ALSO MOVED AROUND QUITE A BIT. I GOT IT REPLACED AND IT MADE A BIG DIFFERENCE.
MY CAR ALSO HAD A BAD SUPPORT BAR IT ALSO MOVED AROUND QUITE A BIT. I GOT IT REPLACED AND IT MADE A BIG DIFFERENCE.
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#9
because the top mount was very worn it put alot of strain on the bottom mount. I havent checked mine as of yet but shall look into it over the holiday period.
One good thing is that they are easy to change yourself which doesnt seem so bad.
I think the bottom mount resides next to the tranny... i think anyway causes the kick back when changing gear!
One good thing is that they are easy to change yourself which doesnt seem so bad.
I think the bottom mount resides next to the tranny... i think anyway causes the kick back when changing gear!
#10
I checked my lower front motor mount and I think that is the problem. It is located in the front of the motor near the oil dipstick. It is hard to see because it has a protective boot covering it. The way I checked mine is I had a friend start the car and put it in drive with the parking brake on and his foot on the brake. Then he increased the rpms with me standing at the front passenger side watching that mount. The entire engine rose way too far up showing that the mount was bad. I am going to check around for the best price and will let you guys know.
#11
also you may find that when in traffic and you have to stop and start the car bounces around alot.. mind did big time... ended up splitting the air intake... if you engine is moveing around alot in the engine bay you may need to check the intake hose.. this causes it to split becuase the the intake box and the engine are not on the same mount.. so the flex hose has more flexing to do and starts to split... when this splits the car will not perform at its best and also will lead to high fuel consumption as the air bypasses the computer.
#12
Lexus Connoisseur
Originally posted by Brando
I checked my lower front motor mount and I think that is the problem. It is located in the front of the motor near the oil dipstick. It is hard to see because it has a protective boot covering it. The way I checked mine is I had a friend start the car and put it in drive with the parking brake on and his foot on the brake. Then he increased the rpms with me standing at the front passenger side watching that mount. The entire engine rose way too far up showing that the mount was bad. I am going to check around for the best price and will let you guys know.
I checked my lower front motor mount and I think that is the problem. It is located in the front of the motor near the oil dipstick. It is hard to see because it has a protective boot covering it. The way I checked mine is I had a friend start the car and put it in drive with the parking brake on and his foot on the brake. Then he increased the rpms with me standing at the front passenger side watching that mount. The entire engine rose way too far up showing that the mount was bad. I am going to check around for the best price and will let you guys know.
#13
I had replaced the top motor mount (pictured above) on my 93 Es about four months ago. I got a good deal on it and it cost about $65. All of a sudden I started to notice the shudder that this thread described. I found that the lower front mount was out as well. When I went to get the part, the guy at the Toyota place asked if I was experiencing a shudder, and if I had any problems with that top mount. He said when the bottom mount goes out the next thing to go is that top mount. Then you will feel that shudder from the engine moving. So if your top mount looks like the one in the picture above you better go ahead and fix the lower one as well because it is probably the one causing all the problems. Oh, the bottom one cost $74.54. Much better than the Lexus price of $140. If anyone needs cheap OEM Lexus parts check out this Toyota website: http://www.toyotatex.com/index_flashed.htm. They have the best prices I have seen. Just call this number and tell them what part you need. (800) 237-9658. Let them know you want to be an internet customer. You will be suprised at how much the price drops. They will ship just about anywhere for a small fee. Check them out.
#14
great... that confirms my suspicions about the lower mount.. I will certainly get mine done now... mine is warn because the top was really badly warn.. put alot of stress on the lower mount.
Also check your intake as this gets put under alot of strain and when it splits your engine just dies... i had a big problem with this as when i went to pull away the engine moved and opened up a split in the intake... then stalled.. and we all know how long it takes to restart an auto when you are at the lights and people are honking at you behind I have an immobiliser which means i have to remove the keys out of the ignition and place the chip inside a slot to innitialize before restarting
Also check your intake as this gets put under alot of strain and when it splits your engine just dies... i had a big problem with this as when i went to pull away the engine moved and opened up a split in the intake... then stalled.. and we all know how long it takes to restart an auto when you are at the lights and people are honking at you behind I have an immobiliser which means i have to remove the keys out of the ignition and place the chip inside a slot to innitialize before restarting
#15
It all stems from the lower mount. If the lower mount is good, then the upper dogbone one will be good. When the lower goes out it allows the engine to pivot up and back causing a lot of undue stress on that upper dogbone mount. They also said that the rear mount never goes out. So we dont have to worry about that one. You ought to check out that site and do it yourself. It is pretty easy and you will save alot of money.