k & n filter
08-17-07, 03:26 PM
#16
08-17-07, 03:31 PM
#17
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it's actually more cost effective HP-wise...
08-17-07, 03:33 PM
#18
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K & N filters are often referred to as air flow meter eaters. Trust me from years of dealership experience that this things will eventually eat your MAF due to the oil in the filter. STOCK is great on these things. Plus a high flow air filter isn't gonna get you much in the way of power anyway.
08-17-07, 07:46 PM
#19
In your case stopping at 400bhp for n2o and a turbo:
$600 on ebay for a wet kit + a $100 fuel pump will make any amount of horsepower you want to make, $3.30/hp, 212bhp gain
$1500-$2000 on the TRD supercharger & fueling & associated mods, $37.5-$20/hp. 40-80bhp gain.
$1000-$2500 on a turbo can make whatever you want to make. $4.70-$11.79/hp, 212bhp gain.
Where as N/A:
$25-250 Intake CAN LOOSE OR NOT GAIN HP. ASSUMING A 5bhp gain. $5DIY-$40/hp bling pipe typically 3-5bhp gain if any
$50-500 Full catback, deleting cat. $5-$100/hp. Gain 5bhp
$260-350 Y-pipe. $17-$25/hp 15-20bhp
$50-1500 head & valve work. $2.5DIY-$42/hp. 20-30bhp
$880-1600 Cams. $29.9-$53.3. 30bhp gains
$300-1200 ECU. $30-$120/hp
Let's say you paid a for real live shop $6000 to turbo your ride to 400bhp. That's still only $28/hp with a 212bhp gain. Not a 5-20hp gain.
Plus... FI grossly raises your average horsepower output. Which is why a turbocharged v6, 300bhp buick grand national is the fastest muscle car of all time. Not the honest 400bhp+ N/A v8's. Peak power is much lower, but it makes that power for thousands of rpm's. Not hundreds.
08-18-07, 11:01 AM
#24
And with the headwork & cams must come boring+pistons+rods+bearings+rings for no cheaper than $1500. When relined & bored .80 over & high comp pistons are installed you'd get a whopping 15hp gain at $100/hp..
Stroking the crank to max out the liner without hitting the rod would cost $2500 at the cheapest, yet still only give about 10bhp & a reduction in throttle responce.... $258/hp.
Normally aspirated modifications can not keep up with forced induction in price to performance. All the low-ball figures you see assume you get it done right & go to home depot.
At the end of the day you can give Paeco a check for about $11 grand & have a powerband less 400bhp N/A engine. Or you can turbo it for afew grand tops and have an engine that will live longer, give better economy & wipe the floor with the N/A engine because of it's extremely wide powerband.
That's why noone ever does N/A projects when they're searching for power. When they do, they generally give up & throw the juice at it shortly after.
Stroking the crank to max out the liner without hitting the rod would cost $2500 at the cheapest, yet still only give about 10bhp & a reduction in throttle responce.... $258/hp.
Normally aspirated modifications can not keep up with forced induction in price to performance. All the low-ball figures you see assume you get it done right & go to home depot.
At the end of the day you can give Paeco a check for about $11 grand & have a powerband less 400bhp N/A engine. Or you can turbo it for afew grand tops and have an engine that will live longer, give better economy & wipe the floor with the N/A engine because of it's extremely wide powerband.
That's why noone ever does N/A projects when they're searching for power. When they do, they generally give up & throw the juice at it shortly after.
08-20-07, 03:59 PM
#27
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sadly it's not even remotely close. Approximating to normal cost ranges, and keeping in mind that many of the extremely low ranges are assuming you 100% DIY!!!
In your case stopping at 400bhp for n2o and a turbo:
$600 on ebay for a wet kit + a $100 fuel pump will make any amount of horsepower you want to make, $3.30/hp, 212bhp gain
$1500-$2000 on the TRD supercharger & fueling & associated mods, $37.5-$20/hp. 40-80bhp gain.
$1000-$2500 on a turbo can make whatever you want to make. $4.70-$11.79/hp, 212bhp gain.
Where as N/A:
$25-250 Intake CAN LOOSE OR NOT GAIN HP. ASSUMING A 5bhp gain. $5DIY-$40/hp bling pipe typically 3-5bhp gain if any
$50-500 Full catback, deleting cat. $5-$100/hp. Gain 5bhp
$260-350 Y-pipe. $17-$25/hp 15-20bhp
$50-1500 head & valve work. $2.5DIY-$42/hp. 20-30bhp
$880-1600 Cams. $29.9-$53.3. 30bhp gains
$300-1200 ECU. $30-$120/hp
Let's say you paid a for real live shop $6000 to turbo your ride to 400bhp. That's still only $28/hp with a 212bhp gain. Not a 5-20hp gain.
Plus... FI grossly raises your average horsepower output. Which is why a turbocharged v6, 300bhp buick grand national is the fastest muscle car of all time. Not the honest 400bhp+ N/A v8's. Peak power is much lower, but it makes that power for thousands of rpm's. Not hundreds.
In your case stopping at 400bhp for n2o and a turbo:
$600 on ebay for a wet kit + a $100 fuel pump will make any amount of horsepower you want to make, $3.30/hp, 212bhp gain
$1500-$2000 on the TRD supercharger & fueling & associated mods, $37.5-$20/hp. 40-80bhp gain.
$1000-$2500 on a turbo can make whatever you want to make. $4.70-$11.79/hp, 212bhp gain.
Where as N/A:
$25-250 Intake CAN LOOSE OR NOT GAIN HP. ASSUMING A 5bhp gain. $5DIY-$40/hp bling pipe typically 3-5bhp gain if any
$50-500 Full catback, deleting cat. $5-$100/hp. Gain 5bhp
$260-350 Y-pipe. $17-$25/hp 15-20bhp
$50-1500 head & valve work. $2.5DIY-$42/hp. 20-30bhp
$880-1600 Cams. $29.9-$53.3. 30bhp gains
$300-1200 ECU. $30-$120/hp
Let's say you paid a for real live shop $6000 to turbo your ride to 400bhp. That's still only $28/hp with a 212bhp gain. Not a 5-20hp gain.
Plus... FI grossly raises your average horsepower output. Which is why a turbocharged v6, 300bhp buick grand national is the fastest muscle car of all time. Not the honest 400bhp+ N/A v8's. Peak power is much lower, but it makes that power for thousands of rpm's. Not hundreds.
I can't imagine how to handle a 300+HP for a Lexus....AWill the front subframe tear out of the chassis when you step on it....... 
08-20-07, 08:17 PM
#29
custom.
the subframe is perfectly fine. like any frame, welding in subframe, and front / rear cross bracing is sex for track driving. and no, the chassie handles the power just fine.tony had >700bhp on his 94 camry (for the elevendy billionth time let's talk tony lol)
the subframe is perfectly fine. like any frame, welding in subframe, and front / rear cross bracing is sex for track driving. and no, the chassie handles the power just fine.tony had >700bhp on his 94 camry (for the elevendy billionth time let's talk tony lol)
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