What would be best or what/which one is better? Cross Drilled Rotars or Slot Ported Rotars? Do they have one with both Slot/Port Cross Drilled rotors available for an 1997-2001 ES? Which one would give me best stoping power? Cross Drilled, slot ported. cross drill/slot ported, or Big Brakes?

 

Might as well let you benefit from an already raging brake thread from TN on this very subject.

Well, it was raging until our man, Pheonix stepped in and dropped some knowledge. Then it was pretty much over.

 

What do you plan on doing with this car? autocross? SCCA events? If so then I would agree with getting slotted or drilled rotors.

But if you are just "cruisin" - then go with OEM or Brembo blanks and a good pad. You will never take advantage of what those rotors were meant to do. Not trying to insult, just trying to save you $$$$. You can improve brake "feel" by getting stainless steel lines as well.

HTH
Chris

 

i wouldnt unless it was real track use. most auto-x's are not long enough to even get good pads hot.

 

Can I achieve good stoping power with just OEM rotars and brembo brake pads and or aftermartket brake pads ect.? From what I know there is only ceramic brake pads and stainless steel brake pads, is this correct? Which one of these two work best, like advantages to disadvantages of the two?

 

There isn't an ES made that won't lock it's brakes at 60-70mph. Unless you're doing real life track driving, piston / caliper swaps are cool, but extremely costly & do nothing... Traction is the problem, not "the brakes won't push hard enough".
Larger / stronger pistons, master cylinder & boosters provide more stopping force on the pads.
Larger rotors increase the leverage applied to stop the car. Also in general the higher mass also lets the rotor absorb more heat instead of it soaking into the pads, piston & eventually the fluid. The drawbcak is increased rotational weight, lowering accelleration & handling performance, and an increase in unsprung weight, lowering suspension performance.

The only problems with the stock system are:

• Lack of traction
• Brake fluid is inadequate for sever duty, and frankly... Car owners are too lazy to change their waterlogged fluid every other year like they're suppose too

The point that you NEED big brakes is the point where you can not out-brake your current amount of traction, and the pads are melting. Which is never going to happen until you spend alot of time at a real live road racing track.

I like Hawk HPS's alot better tahn stock. They don't give when hot as quickly, and become very consistant when warmed up. Peachy on the street puttering around too.

Assuming all lines are flushed with good fluid...
If you hit the pedal and it goes to the floor. You're boiling your brake fluid. A big brake kit is a stupid investment. Change your fluid!
If you hit the pedal and it's stiff like normal yet nothing happens. You need higher rated pads.




Hawk HPS + Blanks + fresh dot 4 fluid (or equiv). You can do as many 120-0mph stops as you have road. The tires will insenerate long before the pads are goo, and the fluid is water vapor.