what engine coolant?
09-29-07, 07:55 AM
#1
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what engine coolant?
my engine coolant in the tube is lik brown... i thought engine coolant was like clear gold yellow? and its low so what do kind do you guys recommend?
09-29-07, 08:46 AM
#2
Use a good brand of ethylene–glycol base engine coolant and mix it according to the manufacturer’s directions.
Using engine coolant which includes more than 50% ethylene–glycol (but not more than 70%) is recommended.
Do not use alcohol type coolant.
The engine coolant should be mixed with demineralized water or distilled water.
Using engine coolant which includes more than 50% ethylene–glycol (but not more than 70%) is recommended.
Do not use alcohol type coolant.
The engine coolant should be mixed with demineralized water or distilled water.
Straight from the service manual.
There's probably a similar recommendation in your owner's manual.Anything beyond this is mere opinion.
09-29-07, 12:01 PM
#5
Lexucanafer
I would add that if you have Toyota OEM (red) coolant in your system you can't just add any off the shelf coolant to it to top it up. They aren't compatible with each other and you'll end up with gunk the consistancy of Jello in your engine. 
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09-29-07, 04:06 PM
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2002 ES 300 Coolant flush and change:
Owners manual states that the coolant capacity is 9.7 quarts.
I drained the radiator and the overflow resivoir and got a total of 5 quarts out.
I then drained the right (or rear) engine block petcock drain and got another 3 quarts ..
I then drained the left (or front) engine block petcock drain and got only .5 quarts out. See note below.
This total drain came to only 8.5 quarts. Apparently 1.2 quarts remain somewhere in the cooling system, possibly in the heater core.
I filled the system with 2 gallons (8 quarts) of distilled water and ran the engine for about 10 minutes until normal temp was achieved. Ran the heater on HOT to flush the heater coil during this warm-up run.
Drained the radiator, right block drain and left block drain and got all of the 8 quarts of rinse water out. This rinse was slightly pink indicating there was additional residual fluid left fron the original coolant drain.
For a 60/40 mix, I installed 5.8 quarts of antifreeze directly in the block and filled the remainder with distilled water, about 3+ quarts. The resivoir was filled to the FULL level with a seperate 60/40 mix. I chose to try Peak Global as a replacement coolant. Got it at NAPA for $13.50 gal.
Ran the engine and re-checked coolant level as trapped air bubbles worked their way out.
I might add that the left (or front) drain petcock was very difficult to get to if have large (or even normal) size hands. Don't even try it if the engine is still warm. If you drain the rear valve first, I think you will get most of the coolant fluid out anyway, (3 quarts vs .5 quarts.)
These petcock drains can be identified by a small 1/4 inch tube attached to the valve, possibly to attach a 1/4 inch rubber drain tube to if you so choose. I really don't know. The rear valve has a 14mm hex "bolt" to loose and the front has a 10mm hex bolt. Sorry-no pictures.
This forum previously ask how much residual fluid remained in the block with a routine drain. I hope this posting will help with those figures and what technique was used to obtain them.
Good luck
Owners manual states that the coolant capacity is 9.7 quarts.
I drained the radiator and the overflow resivoir and got a total of 5 quarts out.
I then drained the right (or rear) engine block petcock drain and got another 3 quarts ..
I then drained the left (or front) engine block petcock drain and got only .5 quarts out. See note below.
This total drain came to only 8.5 quarts. Apparently 1.2 quarts remain somewhere in the cooling system, possibly in the heater core.
I filled the system with 2 gallons (8 quarts) of distilled water and ran the engine for about 10 minutes until normal temp was achieved. Ran the heater on HOT to flush the heater coil during this warm-up run.
Drained the radiator, right block drain and left block drain and got all of the 8 quarts of rinse water out. This rinse was slightly pink indicating there was additional residual fluid left fron the original coolant drain.
For a 60/40 mix, I installed 5.8 quarts of antifreeze directly in the block and filled the remainder with distilled water, about 3+ quarts. The resivoir was filled to the FULL level with a seperate 60/40 mix. I chose to try Peak Global as a replacement coolant. Got it at NAPA for $13.50 gal.
Ran the engine and re-checked coolant level as trapped air bubbles worked their way out.
I might add that the left (or front) drain petcock was very difficult to get to if have large (or even normal) size hands. Don't even try it if the engine is still warm. If you drain the rear valve first, I think you will get most of the coolant fluid out anyway, (3 quarts vs .5 quarts.)
These petcock drains can be identified by a small 1/4 inch tube attached to the valve, possibly to attach a 1/4 inch rubber drain tube to if you so choose. I really don't know. The rear valve has a 14mm hex "bolt" to loose and the front has a 10mm hex bolt. Sorry-no pictures.
This forum previously ask how much residual fluid remained in the block with a routine drain. I hope this posting will help with those figures and what technique was used to obtain them.
Good luck
09-29-07, 04:42 PM
#9
Lexucanafer
2002 ES 300 Coolant flush and change:
Owners manual states that the coolant capacity is 9.7 quarts.
I drained the radiator and the overflow resivoir and got a total of 5 quarts out.
I then drained the right (or rear) engine block petcock drain and got another 3 quarts ..
I then drained the left (or front) engine block petcock drain and got only .5 quarts out. See note below.
This total drain came to only 8.5 quarts. Apparently 1.2 quarts remain somewhere in the cooling system, possibly in the heater core.
I filled the system with 2 gallons (8 quarts) of distilled water and ran the engine for about 10 minutes until normal temp was achieved. Ran the heater on HOT to flush the heater coil during this warm-up run.
Drained the radiator, right block drain and left block drain and got all of the 8 quarts of rinse water out. This rinse was slightly pink indicating there was additional residual fluid left fron the original coolant drain.
For a 60/40 mix, I installed 5.8 quarts of antifreeze directly in the block and filled the remainder with distilled water, about 3+ quarts. The resivoir was filled to the FULL level with a seperate 60/40 mix. I chose to try Peak Global as a replacement coolant. Got it at NAPA for $13.50 gal.
Ran the engine and re-checked coolant level as trapped air bubbles worked their way out.
I might add that the left (or front) drain petcock was very difficult to get to if have large (or even normal) size hands. Don't even try it if the engine is still warm. If you drain the rear valve first, I think you will get most of the coolant fluid out anyway, (3 quarts vs .5 quarts.)
These petcock drains can be identified by a small 1/4 inch tube attached to the valve, possibly to attach a 1/4 inch rubber drain tube to if you so choose. I really don't know. The rear valve has a 14mm hex "bolt" to loose and the front has a 10mm hex bolt. Sorry-no pictures.
This forum previously ask how much residual fluid remained in the block with a routine drain. I hope this posting will help with those figures and what technique was used to obtain them.
Good luck
Owners manual states that the coolant capacity is 9.7 quarts.
I drained the radiator and the overflow resivoir and got a total of 5 quarts out.
I then drained the right (or rear) engine block petcock drain and got another 3 quarts ..
I then drained the left (or front) engine block petcock drain and got only .5 quarts out. See note below.
This total drain came to only 8.5 quarts. Apparently 1.2 quarts remain somewhere in the cooling system, possibly in the heater core.
I filled the system with 2 gallons (8 quarts) of distilled water and ran the engine for about 10 minutes until normal temp was achieved. Ran the heater on HOT to flush the heater coil during this warm-up run.
Drained the radiator, right block drain and left block drain and got all of the 8 quarts of rinse water out. This rinse was slightly pink indicating there was additional residual fluid left fron the original coolant drain.
For a 60/40 mix, I installed 5.8 quarts of antifreeze directly in the block and filled the remainder with distilled water, about 3+ quarts. The resivoir was filled to the FULL level with a seperate 60/40 mix. I chose to try Peak Global as a replacement coolant. Got it at NAPA for $13.50 gal.
Ran the engine and re-checked coolant level as trapped air bubbles worked their way out.
I might add that the left (or front) drain petcock was very difficult to get to if have large (or even normal) size hands. Don't even try it if the engine is still warm. If you drain the rear valve first, I think you will get most of the coolant fluid out anyway, (3 quarts vs .5 quarts.)
These petcock drains can be identified by a small 1/4 inch tube attached to the valve, possibly to attach a 1/4 inch rubber drain tube to if you so choose. I really don't know. The rear valve has a 14mm hex "bolt" to loose and the front has a 10mm hex bolt. Sorry-no pictures.
This forum previously ask how much residual fluid remained in the block with a routine drain. I hope this posting will help with those figures and what technique was used to obtain them.
Good luck
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09-30-07, 07:10 PM
#12
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I use Evans Waterless Antifreeze in all my vehicles, its lifetime, doesn't boil until 375 degrees and no corrosion because there is no water. I'll be putting it in the es300 soon.
Harry
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