1993 ES300 coolant in expansion tank is boiling
#1
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I have a 1993 ES300 that has about 240k miles on it and the coolant in the expansion tank started boiling. I was told it was a blown head gasket, but here are my reasons why I don't think it is:
1) The oil looks just like regular clean motor oil. There is not white or creamy color to it.
2) There is no oil, sludge or grey film in the coolant tank. It looks like green Penzoil coolant.
3) The tank only boils when the engine gets warmed up. I think that if it was a blown head gasket, it would blow exhaust out of the tank when the engine was first started.
4) There is no smoke that comes out of the tail pipe. It does drip some water, but I think that's pretty normal for any car.
5) When you rev up the engine, there is no noise or vibration that comes from the engine.
I think that it's a stuck thermostat, but that's only a guess. I am open to any advise or suggestions anyone has. Thanks!
1) The oil looks just like regular clean motor oil. There is not white or creamy color to it.
2) There is no oil, sludge or grey film in the coolant tank. It looks like green Penzoil coolant.
3) The tank only boils when the engine gets warmed up. I think that if it was a blown head gasket, it would blow exhaust out of the tank when the engine was first started.
4) There is no smoke that comes out of the tail pipe. It does drip some water, but I think that's pretty normal for any car.
5) When you rev up the engine, there is no noise or vibration that comes from the engine.
I think that it's a stuck thermostat, but that's only a guess. I am open to any advise or suggestions anyone has. Thanks!
#3
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I had every reason you listed 1 thru 5 and then some (had the radiator tested for combustion gasses) to think it not to be a head gasket on my 93ES but guess what yep your right HEAD GASKET... here is somthing to look for when filling your cooling system... look for a steady stream of air bubbles in the waterneck... there will be some bubbles as you bleed the air out... but the bubbles will eventualy quit unless you are leaking compression to the waterjacket... there will be no water in the oil if the coolant is leaking into the cylinder... only if its leaking to the oil drain passages...
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Remove the spark plugs and crank the engine for about five seconds. Coolant will be blown out and wet the area of a cylinder that has a blown gasket like esucaris1 described. I always spread newspaper near the holes so the results are easy to see.
Two things, I am brand new to Lexus and have no idea how much of a job it is to remove plugs. Also, I would think you need to unplug or disable the coil in some way, maybe someone can clue us in.
If you get no moisture, you could still have a blown gasket, but if you do get moisture, you can take it to the bank.
Please keep the forum informed as you go through this.
Thanks
Harry
Two things, I am brand new to Lexus and have no idea how much of a job it is to remove plugs. Also, I would think you need to unplug or disable the coil in some way, maybe someone can clue us in.
If you get no moisture, you could still have a blown gasket, but if you do get moisture, you can take it to the bank.
Please keep the forum informed as you go through this.
Thanks
Harry
#6
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put your underwear on your head, spin around three times, and pee into a jar of Toyota type-4 red engine coolant.......but I could be wrong.
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#7
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On a serious note, I see more and more threads like this on ES/Camry forums. Looks like everyone is hitting some serious mileage/wear on their cars.
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#8
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Preventitive maintenence is the best way to help avoid head gasket problems (scheduled coolant changes, new waterpump and thermostat every timing belt change, inspect and replace hoses and the most frequently overlooked is having the radiator checked for blockage and rodded out or replaced, look for buildup inside and around the tubes)... overheating is the enemy of head gaskets... avoid initial overheating and extend the life of your motor...
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as for the question above, i have done heavy research on putting in a JDM engine, the labor to swap the engine is 500bucks one day job. the engine itself i have seen go from 500-900 bucks, all claim to be JDM. as far as the tranny go, i don't remember. i'll give a range if it comes with the engine, i tshould run around 1000 dollar.. a lot of these engine need to be ship which range from 300-500bucks.
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The same thing happened to my 92 at around 160k (temp flew up, water boiling in reservoir, spewing out coolant), and all it turned out to be was the radiator cap even though the one on the car looked fine. Just go pick up a new one, it'd be the easiest and cheapest thing for you to check.
#13
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In the neighborhood of $1200 usd (Add for shipping if necessary) if you diy with new t-belt, w-pump, thermostat, cam and main seals, cover gaskets, have radiator rodded, oil, filter, coolant, trans filter and trans fluid
#14
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Mkay, cuz the my tranny slips when cold and is starting to feel iffy. And the car overheated last year, I know that my engine is just a ticking time bomb ready to explode so replacing everything under the hood might become a reality for me.
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