kingofire

Auto-Rx v/s Seafoam.........a good read.
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums...gonew=1#UNREAD

llcoolpass

if you dont notice the oil level decrease after driving for 7500 miles, then you have some bad quality oil in there[your oil, not the product] that's for sure

smokesgtp

Idk exactly what you mean by the oil not the product but the engine is sound, ran the same setup on my 99' accord. Same results, the oil looks great when i change it, it might eat a 1/16 of a quart but it's nothing measureable by the dipstick.

llcoolpass

looks great sure sounds like chemical analysis. name two good scientific/high level automotive place that says the oil looks determine it's viability. and I will eat my words:>

I think you do know what I mean by the oil not the product -- you should be losing oil, if your dipstick doesn't reflect this conclusion, other stuff is going into the oil pan (the oil too, im not just saying the pan) [water, other fluids, particles, etc.] to compensate for this normal loss of motor oil.

smokesgtp

Actually no I didn't know what you meant, I'll send it for analysis after I change it with confidence. I know looks arent a determining factor in oil quality but if it looks better it probably is, there is a little common sense involved here, I do a lot of oil changes. I'm not using Kendall and a cardboard Fram. Do you use a quality synthetic and filter and have you ever ran an extended change interval? I've been doing it for about 4 years in 5 vehicles in my family and none of them burn oil in 7500, although the 02' Suburban did burn a tiny bit when it was switched over at about 10k, its close to 50k now,. I don't think too much water, or coolant, or gas, various metals, etc. are taking the place of the oil in 7500 some is no doubt but not much in my car, I also put 7500 on the lexus quite quick as I deliver with it part time, I change it about every 8-9 weeks. If your not using synthetic I would suggest it, less friction equals longer engine life. I don't need any more reason than that, and there are many more.

llcoolpass

how much less friction?

smokesgtp

I don't care how much less man thats the point, just less, not too mention better protection against high and low temperatures, better flow(In the NE this is important when I start the car cold at 8 degrees F as I did yesterday). I've read what bob and his buddies have to say, among other things. It improves gas mileage slightly, but measureably, I would say on just about any vehicle from experience. Thats less friction loss therefore better efficiency correct? One would think.

kphu

iTrader: (8)

I recall that synthetic oil was designed so that it adheres to the walls of your engine more so then regular convention motor oil (IDK if its really true or if its a marketing gimmick) but if it is and since during a cold start most of your oil is in your oil pan then I would tend to think that the synthetic oil causes less friction then regular conventional oil. just my .02$

llcoolpass

motor oil of branding synthetic or not sticks to the engine parts . that's not going to help if you have insufficient oil pressure upon engine startup. the oil acts as the bearing between the the the metal materials that are the main bearings and the cam bearings. those parts are tightly put together but the parts are not perfect. the oil makes up for this, make them avoid each other, and helps cool down the engine. even oil from 25 years ago will still be sticking to the parts of an engine.

shouldn't any API SL or SM engine oil be more than adequate for an engine designed around 1991[the main bearings were designed even earlier]?


the manual says change oil every 7500 miles. so what if you do it earlier? i'ts better but unecessary. that was with inferior oil products than we have today. id think an engine that acts like a truck engine could handle regular API sm, or API sl ,for normal usage.

i've said it before, and ill say it again -- and im sticking to it -- brittney spears is hot.

warpd

Synthetic oil has many benefits over conventional dino oil higher quality detergents, and the molecular chain that makes it up is engineered and uniform (thus making it synthetic) as opposed the the irregular molecular chain of conventional oil, extended life etc.. Cars that are making more power than these will typically pick up a couple of hp from just switching all their fluids to synthetic. In every major racing series all the cars are running synthetic fluids and pretty much every well known engine builder does the same. Convention oils just cannot compare to a well engineered synthetic such as Mobil 1, Royal Purple,etc. there is no "gimmick" involved.

llcoolpass

right but for regular cars, it's marginal at best

4TehNguyen

iTrader: (1)

it will help a forced induction car more than it will for an N/A, synthetic can resist higher temperatures longer while maintaining lubrication than conventional

warpd

How do you figure? The gain in engine longevity alone makes it worth it. I have seen engines pulled apart with over 100k miles (that are probably beat on much harder than most of ya'll drive your cars) that have run Mobil 1 since they were new and the bearing surfaces look almost new and the original cross hatch on the cylinder walls is still completely intact. It is worth it for every car and the benefits are in no way marginal unless you consider getting another 50-100k miles out of your car marginal.

smokesgtp

yeah dino oil can blow me. Turbo cars it's almost mandatory isn't it?, I wouldn't dream of running dino in a turbo even with a timer. Hell, I put a high mileage valvoline blend in my galant with 130k so I do use some dino I can't completely **** on it, it's good if your car leaks like a ***** and you don't want to fix it. Slowed down all the leaks that stuff has some nice additives. I also use conventional for the first couple oil changes on every new vehicle, I've been under the impression it does have some benefits for the seals and such in a newer engine, someone wanna chime in on that?.

llcoolpass

i have used syn, but im not a hypocrit. i was running it at 15000 mile intervals. often, owners make it every 3000 miles on syn which is pointless. also, different car.
if i get a new car, i use it, and use such intervals assuming im not doing anything like short trips all the time or have engine problems. i use mobil 1. used car that i dont know enough, then just regular cheap.

i have seen engine with orginal pattern too that ran on ''non syn'' . of course, they had strong cylinder linings and weak piston rings ;-)