I have a 2000 ES. While I don't think my sludge build up is anything out of the ordinary, I hate looking under the oil cap and seeing a slight build up (a very thin layer of crust) everytime I change the oil. I'll admit I'm a bit of a neat-freak, especially with my cars, and dread seeing cooked oil under the cap. I change the oil every 3k miles with synthetic, but I don't know if the original owner did. I bought the car 3 years ago with 50k miles on the clock. It looked this way when I bought it. It now has 90k.

With that said, here's my question:
What are your opinions on using the "de-sludge" chemicals sold at the local parts stores? Some say it's great stuff and should be used routinely to preserve engine life. Others say that it breaks sludge fragments off of the crankcase walls and allows them to float around in the engine and possibly plugging lines.

 

The damage was done between 6 miles to 50,000 miles. Just keep doing what you're doing. The sludge you see is stuck on there.
If it's building up still even since 50,000, then use the seafoam treatment. You put certain amount of seafoam in the crankcase with the oil. You run engine [do not drive it in this condition] for a while [like 15 minutes]. then let it cool off completely. then run it again. then let it cool off, then change the oil and filter. then after 500 miles change the oil and filter again. just use API SL or API SM , any brand [doesn't have to be expensive stuff as far as oil and filter]. Then, return to your normal oil change interval [3K with synthetic like you were doing would be fine].

To clean the cyl's would be great to do at this time. To do this concurrently, you just add seafoam to the intake using vacuum line and leetting it sip it in little sips [to prevent engine damage]. Or, less effective, add the appropriate amount to the gas tank. This will help your fuel system get cleaned and slightly clean the piston/cylinder/combustion chamber[de-carbonize]. This way, your oil changes will work for this too -- in other words, you're getting more done at the same time because the oil should be changed after doing the cylinder cleaning anyway.
The seafoam container says how much to use.

There is a risk of this even gentle-way of doing it causing oil path clogging. It could also though clear a clog that you didn't know existed.
I would read the oil pressure before, and after just to get an idea.

 

you could take it to your lexus dealer and have them check it.

sludge warranty is 8 years/ UNLIMITED miles.

i dont have any personal experience with the de-sludging chemicals in a personal vehicle, but the results i have seen with customer cars werent inspiring..

 

Pour no more than a half a can of Seafoam in your oil to clean everything out. Take it for an oil change within the next 24 hours and take a look at how dark the oil will be. This stuff works miracles.

 

Thanks for the quick replies and good info. I searched for seafaom in the archives and found gobs of input. Sorry for what I now realize was a redundant question.

 

yeah, ive been using seafoam as well. i would be afraid if the chemicals are harsh enough to take down build up, what about seals?
goodluck
Charley

 

^^^SEAFOAM

I used it in my 2000 ES with 68k miles. The car definitely feels like its got more power. And I will use it again before I change out my plugs one more time.

Its a great product, I have heard very little bad about it compared to the good.

 

I too have heard nothing but good things with seafoam.

 

Have a look at Auto-rx. I'm not quite sure of it's true effectiveness, but the fellas over at bobistheoilguy.com are all about it. I've read nothing but good reviews and have yet to see anything bad. I'm in pretty much the same boat as you and decided to use it. Started 250 miles ago and I have a 99 es with 95000 miles, purchased used at 93000. There are some pretty convincing pictures from others taken under the valve cover after a treatment.
What really swayed me was the fact that it is supposedly a slow, dissolving cleaning agent. You add 12 oz for a 2500 cleaning phase, then change O & F and do a 3000 mile rinse phase.
I also had used seafoam in the crankcase and brake booster as stated above immediately after purchasing the car and had good results. Careful though, seafoam is very addictive when added through the brake booster!

 

I second what cha41ppy said about www.auto-rx.com

 

www.auto-rx.com seems like good stuff but it's pretty pricey at $26.77/bottle. Discount is pretty decent on multiple purchases though.

 

so can i pour 1/3 seafoam in my engine oil
1/3 in gas tank shut the car off for 10 minutes start it up and rev it and there will be smoke? puttin it in the booster line scared me if i can put it in some kinda of hydro lock or whatever its called

 

You won't get the full effect unless you get it directly into the engine. I did it to my ES last summer and just did it to my subi with no problems.

 

It's good **** in the booster line but i still will never put anything but oil in the crankcase personally, and I have some buildup from the previous owner as well but have seen no more in the 30k i have put on the car. It's annoying but i don't believe it is affecting anything as the car doesn't burn a drop in my 7500 M1 EP and M1 filter changes.

 

I would also add to what others have posted that Auto-Rx has worked well for many people on a variety of sludged up engines.