cocora64

I RECENTLY STARTED OUT TO CHANGE TYHE TB ON MY 2000 ES 300 AFTER 137KAND I WAS SO AMAZED AT THE EXCELLENT CONDITION IN WHICH ALL OF THE INTERNAL COMPONETS WERE THAT I PAYED NO ATTENTION TO BRINGING MY ENGINE TO TDC BEFORE REMOVING THE BELT. I HAVE NOT TURNED THE CRANK OR THE ROD PULLEYS BUT I NOTICED (A LITTLE TOO LATE) THAT AS SOON AS I TOOK THE BELT OFF, BOTH PULLEYS MOVED BACK SLIGHTLY. I HAVE PURCHASED THE TOYOTA BELT REPLACEMENT AND THE MARKS ON THE NEW BELT DO NOT LINE UP. I HAVE SEEN ON THIS FORUM, BELTS WITH MARKS THAT ACTUALLY SAY FOR WHICH PULLEY THEY ARE FOR BUT MY BELT ONLY HAS TWO CONTINUOUS )_______ LINES AND ONE -------LINE WHICH I SUPPOSE IS FOR THE CRANKSHAFT. I NEED SOME INSIGHT OF TDC AND PISTON FIRING ORDER IN ORDER TO GET MY TIMING RIGHT. ALSO I HAVE A VVTi ENGINE AND FEAR VALVE PROBLEMS PLEASE HELP
A FORGETFULL SCREW UP

madmax98

put your timing belt cover back on < the bottom piece> and then put the crank pulley back on< don't bolt it>. there is a notch on the crank pulley that needs to align with the 0 mark on the cover. your crank should be a TDC. Then line up your cam pulley with the marks on the engine, line em up exactly, accuracy is very important here. Then install the belt.. I did the engine swap on my bro's ES and had to install a timing belt without one on the engine. If i can get in touch with him i'll get you a pic of the line up marks on the timing belt cover.

cocora64

Thanks for the help, my only doubt is which piston is #1 so i make sure that it is at tdc

Nad1370

There is an <----- arrow mark on the belt. This should be facing away the motor.

----- for crank gear. On the crank gear there is a indent (dot type) mark on the front of the gear. That is where you line up the -----.
*Note* The key way on the crankshaft should be pointing 12 o'clock position.

______ _______ Both these marks are on each cam gear.
#1 piston is in the back bank (firewall side head). Each cam gear also has a mark to line up with the belt marks. Cam gear marks are also indented in the gear and should be pointing also at 12 o'clock to line up.

cocora64

Thank You Nad1370 Your Info Is Very Helpfull I Have Done Exactly That Way And The L Is Working Just Fine As Far As Timing Is Concerned. Now My Problem Is A Couple Of Fault Codes (1135, And 1155) And That Is What I Am Dealing With Right Now If You Have Any Insight On These Please Let Me Know. By The Way They Are O2 Sensors, Bank 1 And 2 And They've Been Replaced Yet The Problem Persists . Thanks, Javier

llcoolpass

u better hope that the piston position wasnt too close because your engine i believe is interference type if im not mistaken with variable valve timing and such

phill

does anyone have an idea around what age to change the belt- some say that it doesn't really matter- only milage but in reason- i have 65k in 7 years i hear that some let it go till 11 years or so- i have no idea- any clue

llcoolpass

look, it hates oil and other chemicals

so if your engine has 1 mile, but the belt is covered in oil, you can go drive and with 2 miles on the odomoter , your belt can go.

if the belt is uncontaminated, and treated normally, then age means less, but mileage means more.

but after a certain amount of time, just a little bit of driving, and lots of time, the belt will start to wear out.

a good rule of thumb on cars like this is 125K miles or 15 years -- change it [ i.e. timing belt job [which includes the pulleys and hydraulic tensioner, and the water pump wouldn't be a bad idea while you're in there]

if it is VERY oily on that area of the engine, say from massive valve cover leakage, expect it to die within couple years or less.

case: my es300, the belt was exposed to some oily-ness, but was otherwise [I believe] original. it had started to show some fray of the threading metal things that in the teeth, on a couple spots, but was fully functional. everything else was too. but it was good idea to get it done, didn't want to worry about water pump, pulleys, tensioner, or belt going on me. just changed it. 141000 miles and 15 years old. I suspect I could have driven 2 years or 28K miles without a problem, but after that, I 'm sure it/they WOULD HAVE broken or failed for sure.