1996 ES300 Head Gasket gone
#1
1996 ES300 Head Gasket gone
Hey all,
I have a 1996 ES300, I drove it for 3 years problem free, about 50000KM. On the weekend, the head gasket blew (white smoke everywhere), it had 285,000KM. One of those things, although I thought it could go 300,000+ who knows who had the car before me and how they treated it.
I bought a 98 Toyota Windom engine from a Japanese importer. I have my mechanic installing it now. I wanted to know if you guys think that is a good move or would you have just moved on?
The body and transmission are both fine on the car.
What's your opinion, the engine is $800 and the labour about $750
Good move/not worth it?
I have a 1996 ES300, I drove it for 3 years problem free, about 50000KM. On the weekend, the head gasket blew (white smoke everywhere), it had 285,000KM. One of those things, although I thought it could go 300,000+ who knows who had the car before me and how they treated it.
I bought a 98 Toyota Windom engine from a Japanese importer. I have my mechanic installing it now. I wanted to know if you guys think that is a good move or would you have just moved on?
The body and transmission are both fine on the car.
What's your opinion, the engine is $800 and the labour about $750
Good move/not worth it?
#2
Has engine replaced, mechanic claims that he can't connect the oil sensor, so he is telling me that I will need to keep an eye on the oil that there is no place to connect it on the engine (Lexus ES300 with now a Toyota Windom engine)
Does this fly?
Does this fly?
#4
I just replaced the head gaskets on a very well kept 1993. The engine is the 3VZ-FE. Big job. 270,000KM. I weighed out putting in an engine from Japan if the engine looked worn/warped. Not a chance! While we were in there, the valves were touched up and new shims put in. Runs very smooth.
The reading I have been doing on this engine points to a rock solid machine. I think you may have a different engine.
As far as the sensor, not a big deal. You will just need to check oil regularly.
The reading I have been doing on this engine points to a rock solid machine. I think you may have a different engine.
As far as the sensor, not a big deal. You will just need to check oil regularly.
#5
Yea, as Charley pointed out, it is a 1mz-fe (96-00 I believe), different engine than your 93, I agree, Toyota engines are solid, but rather than go through that big job, swapping the engine is quick and should be better long term.
I guess I am wondering if what he saying flys because perhaps the 1MZ engine for the windom is just a touch different than for the ES300 (it looks the same, has different manifold etc.) so perhaps it connnects somewhere else or needs a sort of cable extension. Transmission was changed 2001 and Rad 2004 (by previous owner), hoping with this engine swap to get some years, watch the body and do a paint job.
The ES300 92-03 shape (2nd and 3rd gen.) look great, sometimes less is more.
I guess I am wondering if what he saying flys because perhaps the 1MZ engine for the windom is just a touch different than for the ES300 (it looks the same, has different manifold etc.) so perhaps it connnects somewhere else or needs a sort of cable extension. Transmission was changed 2001 and Rad 2004 (by previous owner), hoping with this engine swap to get some years, watch the body and do a paint job.
The ES300 92-03 shape (2nd and 3rd gen.) look great, sometimes less is more.
#6
Hi all,
just an update. I had the engine swaped (see above), few details
a) oil light is on (mechanice complained about how the jap. engine was different and there is nowhere to put it in - I have the oil pan sensor sitting in my trunk) I have another Mechanic who is willing to work on this, he said it is easy, just a different place to plug it in, and the first mechanic should have rin a wire, he also said it is not correct to swap an engine and have warning lights on on the car and consider the job complete
b) engine light is on, maybe because of a) being on all the time, we will find out
c) there is some vibration felt through the gas pedal and the seats, I researched this online and most point to a 'bad mount' so I am going to ask the new mechanic to remount/adjust it, the steering vibrates too (mildly), perhaps needs a tune up too but I don't think so, the performance of the new engine is great, it is faster, more powerful and I get about 60KM more to a tank
d) there is some light screeching from the back right tire, only hear it when breaking or accelorating at 0-15KM, comes and goes, not consistant, I think it might be break positioning, I had a guy look at it (thinking it was the wind noise things rusted out but no), he said it could be the break shoes but he would have to take a lot off just to check that but he couldn't hear it when he drove the car
I plan to leave the car with a guy on Sun. as I will be away for a week, any tips with the above, I would apprecite it so I can leave some notes for the mechanic, I find a lot of them like simple jobs (quick money) and not things that are more fine and req. some research, trial and error.
Thanks a lot
just an update. I had the engine swaped (see above), few details
a) oil light is on (mechanice complained about how the jap. engine was different and there is nowhere to put it in - I have the oil pan sensor sitting in my trunk) I have another Mechanic who is willing to work on this, he said it is easy, just a different place to plug it in, and the first mechanic should have rin a wire, he also said it is not correct to swap an engine and have warning lights on on the car and consider the job complete
b) engine light is on, maybe because of a) being on all the time, we will find out
c) there is some vibration felt through the gas pedal and the seats, I researched this online and most point to a 'bad mount' so I am going to ask the new mechanic to remount/adjust it, the steering vibrates too (mildly), perhaps needs a tune up too but I don't think so, the performance of the new engine is great, it is faster, more powerful and I get about 60KM more to a tank
d) there is some light screeching from the back right tire, only hear it when breaking or accelorating at 0-15KM, comes and goes, not consistant, I think it might be break positioning, I had a guy look at it (thinking it was the wind noise things rusted out but no), he said it could be the break shoes but he would have to take a lot off just to check that but he couldn't hear it when he drove the car
I plan to leave the car with a guy on Sun. as I will be away for a week, any tips with the above, I would apprecite it so I can leave some notes for the mechanic, I find a lot of them like simple jobs (quick money) and not things that are more fine and req. some research, trial and error.
Thanks a lot
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#8
Hi all,
just an update. I had the engine swaped (see above), few details
a) oil light is on (mechanice complained about how the jap. engine was different and there is nowhere to put it in - I have the oil pan sensor sitting in my trunk) I have another Mechanic who is willing to work on this, he said it is easy, just a different place to plug it in, and the first mechanic should have rin a wire, he also said it is not correct to swap an engine and have warning lights on on the car and consider the job complete
b) engine light is on, maybe because of a) being on all the time, we will find out
c) there is some vibration felt through the gas pedal and the seats, I researched this online and most point to a 'bad mount' so I am going to ask the new mechanic to remount/adjust it, the steering vibrates too (mildly), perhaps needs a tune up too but I don't think so, the performance of the new engine is great, it is faster, more powerful and I get about 60KM more to a tank
d) there is some light screeching from the back right tire, only hear it when breaking or accelorating at 0-15KM, comes and goes, not consistant, I think it might be break positioning, I had a guy look at it (thinking it was the wind noise things rusted out but no), he said it could be the break shoes but he would have to take a lot off just to check that but he couldn't hear it when he drove the car
I plan to leave the car with a guy on Sun. as I will be away for a week, any tips with the above, I would apprecite it so I can leave some notes for the mechanic, I find a lot of them like simple jobs (quick money) and not things that are more fine and req. some research, trial and error.
Thanks a lot
just an update. I had the engine swaped (see above), few details
a) oil light is on (mechanice complained about how the jap. engine was different and there is nowhere to put it in - I have the oil pan sensor sitting in my trunk) I have another Mechanic who is willing to work on this, he said it is easy, just a different place to plug it in, and the first mechanic should have rin a wire, he also said it is not correct to swap an engine and have warning lights on on the car and consider the job complete
b) engine light is on, maybe because of a) being on all the time, we will find out
c) there is some vibration felt through the gas pedal and the seats, I researched this online and most point to a 'bad mount' so I am going to ask the new mechanic to remount/adjust it, the steering vibrates too (mildly), perhaps needs a tune up too but I don't think so, the performance of the new engine is great, it is faster, more powerful and I get about 60KM more to a tank
d) there is some light screeching from the back right tire, only hear it when breaking or accelorating at 0-15KM, comes and goes, not consistant, I think it might be break positioning, I had a guy look at it (thinking it was the wind noise things rusted out but no), he said it could be the break shoes but he would have to take a lot off just to check that but he couldn't hear it when he drove the car
I plan to leave the car with a guy on Sun. as I will be away for a week, any tips with the above, I would apprecite it so I can leave some notes for the mechanic, I find a lot of them like simple jobs (quick money) and not things that are more fine and req. some research, trial and error.
Thanks a lot
i wanna start with the engine. is it a VVT-I engine or not? that alone could be an issue. for the CE light run the code and find out what it leads to but my guess is that wire thats off. the screeching you hear is probably the pads being worn. if it is change them. just my 2 cents
#9
No, it is not a VVT-I engine, It is the 1MZ 96-00 engine.
Thanks for your input Bdub, I know what you mean, but it is more of a grinding (rubbing sound) not the warning sound in the break, had all breaks newly installed in April.
Thanks for your input Bdub, I know what you mean, but it is more of a grinding (rubbing sound) not the warning sound in the break, had all breaks newly installed in April.
#10
#12
update: been 4 months, car running fine, smooth and powerful, used to kick black smoke on start, with new engine all that's gone.
The only problem I still have is that the rear-passenger side wheel seems to be touching something, there is no noise, just feels like I'm driving with handbrake on/I lose about 150KM to a tank! some vibration over 80KM too...Mechanics can't seem to figure it out.
Oil light problem gone: just re-inserted oil pan sensor (wasn't installed by mechanic!)
The only problem I still have is that the rear-passenger side wheel seems to be touching something, there is no noise, just feels like I'm driving with handbrake on/I lose about 150KM to a tank! some vibration over 80KM too...Mechanics can't seem to figure it out.
Oil light problem gone: just re-inserted oil pan sensor (wasn't installed by mechanic!)
#14
Update: 6 Months Later
Still get some vibrartion through the steering, on highway (sometimes severe) and engine light still on. Worse still, getting about 300KM only to a tank and oil really low after 2300KM since oil change! Found a good mechanic who actually took the time to drive the car around and do some detailed diagnostics...here is what he found
1) Exhaust leak near engine (repaired/sealed) - he said this would affect performance
2) Engine light is for EGR - he is working on that now
3) He opened the engine up to resolve the EGR issue - found that previous mechanic hadn't connected some parts, frayed some wires and left a screw driver in there (great huh?), also, coil cracked, 3 gaskets crap (to be fixed/ all plugs replaced too)
4) 2 Oil leaks, one at the front, easy to fix, one at the back of the engine, harder to get it but fixable
5) front brakes gone - need replacing
6) Tires feathered (didn't balance rotate enough - my fault, didn't know much) - to be replaced/wheel alignment
He said other than that, the engine is good, trans good and body clean for a 1996, he said selling it would be worse, the $3000 or so cash you might get won't get you a decent car and he said with these fixes, you should get a few years (although no guarantees)
What do you guys think? and how much do you think it should cost?
Thinking I would rather fix up a 96 Toyota than spend $5000 on a 03 Chrsyler?
Please advise, thanks for previous comments
Still get some vibrartion through the steering, on highway (sometimes severe) and engine light still on. Worse still, getting about 300KM only to a tank and oil really low after 2300KM since oil change! Found a good mechanic who actually took the time to drive the car around and do some detailed diagnostics...here is what he found
1) Exhaust leak near engine (repaired/sealed) - he said this would affect performance
2) Engine light is for EGR - he is working on that now
3) He opened the engine up to resolve the EGR issue - found that previous mechanic hadn't connected some parts, frayed some wires and left a screw driver in there (great huh?), also, coil cracked, 3 gaskets crap (to be fixed/ all plugs replaced too)
4) 2 Oil leaks, one at the front, easy to fix, one at the back of the engine, harder to get it but fixable
5) front brakes gone - need replacing
6) Tires feathered (didn't balance rotate enough - my fault, didn't know much) - to be replaced/wheel alignment
He said other than that, the engine is good, trans good and body clean for a 1996, he said selling it would be worse, the $3000 or so cash you might get won't get you a decent car and he said with these fixes, you should get a few years (although no guarantees)
What do you guys think? and how much do you think it should cost?
Thinking I would rather fix up a 96 Toyota than spend $5000 on a 03 Chrsyler?
Please advise, thanks for previous comments
Last edited by irlundee; 02-21-09 at 09:07 AM.
#15
All issues resolved,
upon opening the engine, it was noticed that a screw driver was in there, broken coil, frayed wires and wires going to computer were inverted!
Nice install by previous guy!
All solved now, engine lights off and car feels like a baby again.
upon opening the engine, it was noticed that a screw driver was in there, broken coil, frayed wires and wires going to computer were inverted!
Nice install by previous guy!
All solved now, engine lights off and car feels like a baby again.