Hard to start when cold.
#1
Hard to start when cold.
I have searched through posts, and haven't found anyone with my problem.
Problem: My car doesn't want to start in the morning, in 40 or lower weather.
Symptom: In cold weather, engine has to be cranked several times till the battery is almost dead, before it starts. At this time, the RPMs are around 450. Have to tap the gas a little, or the engine will die immediately. Tap the gas, let it try to bog out, tap again......continue this until the engine warms a little (about 5 minutes). Take off is really really laggy at the time and almost kills the engine.
Warm start I have NO ISSUE at all. Starts instantly, and acceleration is normal.
In conclusion, it seems to me that the air/fuel ratio is off when it is cold. As if it is flooding itself out till warms and corrects itself.
Thanks in advance.
Sorry, forgot to mention: 1994 ES300 189,000 - Timing belt changed two weeks ago. Right before the problem started. Not sure if it could be the cold, the belt, or something else causing the issue.
Problem: My car doesn't want to start in the morning, in 40 or lower weather.
Symptom: In cold weather, engine has to be cranked several times till the battery is almost dead, before it starts. At this time, the RPMs are around 450. Have to tap the gas a little, or the engine will die immediately. Tap the gas, let it try to bog out, tap again......continue this until the engine warms a little (about 5 minutes). Take off is really really laggy at the time and almost kills the engine.
Warm start I have NO ISSUE at all. Starts instantly, and acceleration is normal.
In conclusion, it seems to me that the air/fuel ratio is off when it is cold. As if it is flooding itself out till warms and corrects itself.
Thanks in advance.
Sorry, forgot to mention: 1994 ES300 189,000 - Timing belt changed two weeks ago. Right before the problem started. Not sure if it could be the cold, the belt, or something else causing the issue.
Last edited by chiefkyle; 11-20-08 at 05:46 PM.
#3
Is there a way I could check it myself?
I am taking it back to the shop tomorrow. I am asking here, cause I'm not sure if timing could be the issue, or if it sounds like something else. Can the timing cause the engine to run bad when cold, but run fine when warm?
And thanks for the welcome.
I am taking it back to the shop tomorrow. I am asking here, cause I'm not sure if timing could be the issue, or if it sounds like something else. Can the timing cause the engine to run bad when cold, but run fine when warm?
And thanks for the welcome.
#4
If it runs well once it is warm, then I would suggest checking the coolant temp sensor. Keep in mind that there are two coolant temp sensors, one is for the temp gauge, the second for the computer. The computer uses it's own sensor to tell when the engine is cold/warm, and will enrich the mixture when it is cold. While you are at it, also check the air temp sensor.
the values are
-4 deg f 10 ~ 20 k ohms
32 deg f 4 ~ 7 k ohms
68 deg f 2 ~3 k ohms
the values are
-4 deg f 10 ~ 20 k ohms
32 deg f 4 ~ 7 k ohms
68 deg f 2 ~3 k ohms
#5
I concur with George on the temp sensor. The sensor may be sending a faulty temp to the ECU and thus the air/fuel ratio is off for what it would be the actual temp outside.
Another thought is that you are in need of a good top end cleaning (throttle body, fuel injectors, IACV).
steviej
Another thought is that you are in need of a good top end cleaning (throttle body, fuel injectors, IACV).
steviej
#6
Is there a way I could check it myself?
I am taking it back to the shop tomorrow. I am asking here, cause I'm not sure if timing could be the issue, or if it sounds like something else. Can the timing cause the engine to run bad when cold, but run fine when warm?
And thanks for the welcome.
I am taking it back to the shop tomorrow. I am asking here, cause I'm not sure if timing could be the issue, or if it sounds like something else. Can the timing cause the engine to run bad when cold, but run fine when warm?
And thanks for the welcome.
well u could take the cam covers off and see if the marks line up.
#7
You state that the car starts and runs fine once it has warmed up, so you cam timming is set correct. If it was off, you would have problems warm/cold. Just one tooth off and there would be no doubt in your mind that they had not replaced the belt correctly.
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#8
I took my car to autozone, and they tested the alternator under load. Result: bad alternator. Alternator only puts out 4 volts while under load (aka head-lights, heater blower fan, radio, etc). So whats been going on, is the alternator barely charges the battery, so it doesn't have enough juice to start the car. When I put the car in gear and give it gas (once started in the morning), it puts more voltage into the system, allowing the system to run better. Also take note, that a warm engine is easier to start than a cold one. Which is why once it has been running, it start with ease.
Put a new alternator on (approximately 10 minutes total).
When I start it tomorrow morning, hopefully all will be well.
BTW: I took it to the place that installed the timing belt, and they said they couldn't get it in till Monday. I will take it in just in case.
Thanks for the help guys, and will let you know how it turns out tomorrow and Monday.
Put a new alternator on (approximately 10 minutes total).
When I start it tomorrow morning, hopefully all will be well.
BTW: I took it to the place that installed the timing belt, and they said they couldn't get it in till Monday. I will take it in just in case.
Thanks for the help guys, and will let you know how it turns out tomorrow and Monday.
#9
I concur with George on the temp sensor. The sensor may be sending a faulty temp to the ECU and thus the air/fuel ratio is off for what it would be the actual temp outside.
Another thought is that you are in need of a good top end cleaning (throttle body, fuel injectors, IACV).
steviej
Another thought is that you are in need of a good top end cleaning (throttle body, fuel injectors, IACV).
steviej
I was about to pull the timing cover off, and check the timing, had two bolts off, and was like "Grab me the flashlight, this seems like a disconnected wire or vacuum.". I start looking through the engine bay. First place I looked, was near the thermostat housing. Sure enough, one of the two coolant temperature sensor connectors wasn't plug in completely.
Long story short, it fired right up, and hasn't given me any problems since. Now I am out $180 for an alternator I changed, and didn't even need one.
Last edited by chiefkyle; 12-01-08 at 06:37 AM.
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