105k miles need to service
12-05-08, 07:04 AM
#1
Pole Position
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: TX
Posts: 273
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
105k miles need to service
My '98 ES has ~105k miles on it and i'm unshure of what has been done service/maintenance wise to it.
I have done mobil 1 synthetic oil changes every 4-5k miles with mobil 1 filter. I have also put in a new Toyota air filter and plan on changing it at 10k miles.
Right now, the car seems to run great. The engine feels strong, the transmission has only the smallest delay when shifting from R to D, and it doesn't leak an fluids or blow smoke. I need this car to last me another 6yrs so I would like to do some preventative maintenance
I'm just wondering what kind of things I should get done to ensure a lengthy life for the lexus! Thanks everyone.
Jason
I have done mobil 1 synthetic oil changes every 4-5k miles with mobil 1 filter. I have also put in a new Toyota air filter and plan on changing it at 10k miles.
Right now, the car seems to run great. The engine feels strong, the transmission has only the smallest delay when shifting from R to D, and it doesn't leak an fluids or blow smoke. I need this car to last me another 6yrs so I would like to do some preventative maintenance
I'm just wondering what kind of things I should get done to ensure a lengthy life for the lexus! Thanks everyone.
Jason
12-05-08, 07:12 AM
#2
recommend timing belt, accessory belts, cabin air filter, spark plugs, rear and front valve cover gaskets, some fuel injection cleaner additive, transmission fluid drain and fill incl. filter change (not flush!). check your cv axles, brake pads, throttle cable position, idle, etc.
it's really a bunch of fairly small jobs that all add up. they can be done at once or one by one...
i recommend getting a haynes manual for your year vehicle and reading up on what is recommended. you will keep your car for as long as you live if you follow the manual!
it's really a bunch of fairly small jobs that all add up. they can be done at once or one by one...
i recommend getting a haynes manual for your year vehicle and reading up on what is recommended. you will keep your car for as long as you live if you follow the manual!
12-05-08, 07:22 AM
#3
Lexus Test Driver
Trans drain and fill maybe every year honestly. The fluid is Toyota TIV, nothing else, it's great stuff and honestly doing it every 3 years would probably be just as good. People report bad results with power/heated flushes, but great results with a drain and fill, or about 5 qts replaced...
The motor is a non-interference motor so if the timing belt breaks it will just die and you will call a tow truck or a friend and have it towed/trailered home at which time you'll read the writeup on the timing belt service here on clublexus and do it yourself because you're smart and you can do it! : ) laughs...
I don't really know when these belts break though, ours has about 110k on it and it's still soft and supple with zero dryness or cracking in the least bit. They're engineered to go 100k, which means they probably have a safety factor of at least 2 to guarantee every single unit will perform to this standard, so they may be able to go 200k, but it's the water pump and pulleys/tensioner that may go before the belt does. So it's not a bad idea to do it every 100~120k as preventative measure.
People say to drain/flush the power steering fluid with some good stuff, I think synthetic dexron 3 if not mistaken (check) for a very long fluid service life.
Also, try pouring a cap or two of seafoam into the intake manifold to burn off any carbon deposits and clean the cylinder heads/combustion chambers and tops of pistons, folks including myself have reported smoother better running high mileage engines by doing that.
Maybe a coolant flush and refill and you might look into changing to the regular old green stuff, it's cheaper, toxic to the environment, and won't let you down or cause any long term corrosion problems in your heater core radiator heads or cooling system. (some of those special factory brand coolants tend to wreak havoc on aluminum parts for the sake of being environmentally friendly-- IE dexcool kills blazer heater cores on a regular basis-- the rad cap gets weak and bleeds off a little pressure along with a little coolant at a time over a long period of heat cycles and the level gets 1/2 a qt. low and the trapped air causes the aluminum with the coolant residue left on it to basically rot-- but the green stuff won't do that)
Add a tranny cooler inline with the hoses to the factory cooler in the radiator, cheap insurance for a longer tranny life. I'm adding one to my 99 es from a ford super duty f350 powerstroke for a good cooler volume. Some hoses and clamps from autozone and some easily fabricated aluminum brackets (cut bend and drill) to mount it and voila, cooler tranny temps (these smooth tranny's produce heat due to clutch slippage during gear changes so you won't feel the change as much)..
Oh, and just drive it. : )
The motor is a non-interference motor so if the timing belt breaks it will just die and you will call a tow truck or a friend and have it towed/trailered home at which time you'll read the writeup on the timing belt service here on clublexus and do it yourself because you're smart and you can do it! : ) laughs...
I don't really know when these belts break though, ours has about 110k on it and it's still soft and supple with zero dryness or cracking in the least bit. They're engineered to go 100k, which means they probably have a safety factor of at least 2 to guarantee every single unit will perform to this standard, so they may be able to go 200k, but it's the water pump and pulleys/tensioner that may go before the belt does. So it's not a bad idea to do it every 100~120k as preventative measure.
People say to drain/flush the power steering fluid with some good stuff, I think synthetic dexron 3 if not mistaken (check) for a very long fluid service life.
Also, try pouring a cap or two of seafoam into the intake manifold to burn off any carbon deposits and clean the cylinder heads/combustion chambers and tops of pistons, folks including myself have reported smoother better running high mileage engines by doing that.
Maybe a coolant flush and refill and you might look into changing to the regular old green stuff, it's cheaper, toxic to the environment, and won't let you down or cause any long term corrosion problems in your heater core radiator heads or cooling system. (some of those special factory brand coolants tend to wreak havoc on aluminum parts for the sake of being environmentally friendly-- IE dexcool kills blazer heater cores on a regular basis-- the rad cap gets weak and bleeds off a little pressure along with a little coolant at a time over a long period of heat cycles and the level gets 1/2 a qt. low and the trapped air causes the aluminum with the coolant residue left on it to basically rot-- but the green stuff won't do that)
Add a tranny cooler inline with the hoses to the factory cooler in the radiator, cheap insurance for a longer tranny life. I'm adding one to my 99 es from a ford super duty f350 powerstroke for a good cooler volume. Some hoses and clamps from autozone and some easily fabricated aluminum brackets (cut bend and drill) to mount it and voila, cooler tranny temps (these smooth tranny's produce heat due to clutch slippage during gear changes so you won't feel the change as much)..
Oh, and just drive it. : )
Last edited by MJHSC400; 12-05-08 at 03:24 PM.
12-06-08, 03:06 PM
#5
Pole Position
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: TX
Posts: 273
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I'm pretty sure my '98 has a cabin air filter too, but I'll do a little research. Thanks for the replies guys! I'll probably break those up into more affordable chunks until I get them all done.
Should the timing belt and water pump be first on my list or should a transmission drain/fill (not flush) be first? Thanks.
Should the timing belt and water pump be first on my list or should a transmission drain/fill (not flush) be first? Thanks.
12-06-08, 06:02 PM
#6
Driver
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: NY
Posts: 180
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
This is a question directed to those who used the Seafoam treatment: Can someone provide a picture for an 00 or 01 of the location of the hose that needs to be disconnected to do the intake cleaning?
12-06-08, 06:41 PM
#7
Lexus Test Driver
For the seafoam cleaning, any vaccum hose will do, but the brake booster hose is a common one most use to my knowledge.
The tranny drain and fill is not that much, the toyota tiv fluid is like $5 per quart so $25.... And get a drain plug washer from toyota for a V6 camry (probly cheaper) to avoid any leaks... For my oil changes I use the (14mm I think) teflon/plastic drain plug washers too, and they work a few times before needing replacement, just dont torque the plug til they break, maybe 20 ft. lbs is good enough for a drain plug..
The tranny drain and fill is not that much, the toyota tiv fluid is like $5 per quart so $25.... And get a drain plug washer from toyota for a V6 camry (probly cheaper) to avoid any leaks... For my oil changes I use the (14mm I think) teflon/plastic drain plug washers too, and they work a few times before needing replacement, just dont torque the plug til they break, maybe 20 ft. lbs is good enough for a drain plug..
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
