1993 Es300 Speakers help!!!!
#1
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driver side door speaker (not the tweeter) is busted, everywhere in town i go says something different. 1 place says oh if you change this you need to change everything amp included and head unit. quoted 1150. 2nd place said 975 without re-wiring if they had to re-wire they would let me know and we could discuss the price then. I dont know what the ohms are for the speakers, i know the sizes, and i know i could replace them if i just knew the ohms, everything seems to work great except my drivers side door panel speaker, and the passenger one but i dont think its connected.
Please help me
Please help me
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#2
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sounds like people seriously trying to screw you over. I personally have no heard of a situation where replacing a speaker required replacing a HU and amp.
From what I've heard of your local shops, I would suggest picking up a couple after market speakers and just replace both front door speakers (if you upgrade just one, you would not be sounding the greatest.) If you don't feel comfortable replacing them yourself, I would just hit up a shop that I hadn't been into yet and tell them you are upgrading, and don't even mention the cracked speaker.
*EDIT*
So I went back and re-read your post, and realized that you just needed the Ohms for the front speakers, I believe these are 4Ohm speakers.
From what I've heard of your local shops, I would suggest picking up a couple after market speakers and just replace both front door speakers (if you upgrade just one, you would not be sounding the greatest.) If you don't feel comfortable replacing them yourself, I would just hit up a shop that I hadn't been into yet and tell them you are upgrading, and don't even mention the cracked speaker.
*EDIT*
So I went back and re-read your post, and realized that you just needed the Ohms for the front speakers, I believe these are 4Ohm speakers.
Last edited by Infin1ty; 02-21-09 at 01:14 PM.
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yeah alot of the shops around here are just in it for the money and thank you for the info on the ohms. now i can at least get the speakers and put them in without spending a grand.
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Wow, not trying to be mean but it sounds like if you left your sister with those shop owners she'd end up in the teen slave trade. They are definitely trying to pull a fast one on you. The best route would be to just go out and purchase a 6.5 inch 4 ohm speaker and install it yourself, most speakers don't cost more than a few ten dollar bills. GL!
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most of these tards actually are out to scam people i mean they have some okay deals on the speakers... but installing and the "miscellaneous" fee's are total bs. im actualy going to do a fit today for all my speakers and attempt to replace them, maybe ill just mess up and actually have a good excuse to get a whole new system.
#6
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driver side door speaker (not the tweeter) is busted, everywhere in town i go says something different. 1 place says oh if you change this you need to change everything amp included and head unit. quoted 1150. 2nd place said 975 without re-wiring if they had to re-wire they would let me know and we could discuss the price then. I dont know what the ohms are for the speakers, i know the sizes, and i know i could replace them if i just knew the ohms, everything seems to work great except my drivers side door panel speaker, and the passenger one but i dont think its connected.
Please help me![Crying](https://www.clublexus.com/forums/images/smilies/Peace.gif)
Please help me
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2- My concern is BOTH door speakers are out driver and passenger but tweetersare fine. My inclination is to suspect the power amp. Since the tweeters work it might be a problem at the crossover? Could be as simple as a connector working its' way loose.
3- First thing you can try - if there is no sound from the speaker, get a known good speaker - any piece of crap will do - or a VOM, pop the door panel and see if there is any signal to the speaker. If there is no sound or voltage look to the amp
#7
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For the passenger side, also check the audio settings on th radio to make sure the passenger side speaker has not been turned off.
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as far as the audio setting goes i have no idea how to do that... however, my driver side door from me pulling off the panel, somehow it works now. I was completely unsure of what happened, the only problem now is my passenger door speaker doesnt work, but it hasnt worked since ive owned the car so i dunno about it.. as far as actually getting to the amp or any portion of this car to do work on it, its a bit of a hassle due to my lazy a$$ lol. nah im 6'4 and its pretty outlandish for me to attempt much on my own, i think i will just save up some cash and take a trip down to lubbock cause i know a shop there that will install a whole new everything amp speakers head unit for about 500. and i went to school with 4 of the dudes who work there and 1 of them is half owner so i can trust him with what he says. But any advice as to why my speaker works would be greatly appreciated, and also how to get to the audio setting.
#9
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2- Also possible it could be the wire that connects to the speaker cone. The original cones were paper, the glue may have dried out after 16yrs. Replacing the speaker would be the sloution if this is the case.
On the head unit one of the controls activates the audio settings if you push it. It allows the sound to be adjusted front to back (FADER) or Right to Left (BALANCE). If the balance is set to the Left (Driver) then the right(Passenger) speaker will be turned off. I believe you can set it so all the sound signal is sent to any individual seating position.
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On the head unit one of the controls activates the audio settings if you push it. It allows the sound to be adjusted front to back (FADER) or Right to Left (BALANCE). If the balance is set to the Left (Driver) then the right(Passenger) speaker will be turned off. I believe you can set it so all the sound signal is sent to any individual seating position.
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#12
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trk1,
the front are midbass speakers. i learned the hard way -- make sure you get those, not full range [2-way and 3-way].
i blieve they are plug and play IF you get the OEM. since you will not be getting OEM, it's snip and solder [or crimp if you're lame].
the front are midbass speakers. i learned the hard way -- make sure you get those, not full range [2-way and 3-way].
i blieve they are plug and play IF you get the OEM. since you will not be getting OEM, it's snip and solder [or crimp if you're lame].
#13
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