GEORGE_JET

One side of the connector should be hooked (thru a fuse) to 12 volt, so that should not change. The ECM grounds the other side when it pulses the injector on. So unless you backprobe the connector you will never see anything on that side.
The noid light is just a easy way to tell if the ECM is trying to turn the injector on. If you build your own noid light, use a small incandesent bulb ( ie like a dash light ) do not use a larger bulb ( such as a brake light, or a led ).
Hook the noid light up (polarity with a incandesent bulb is not important ). And start the engine, the noid light will flash rapidly, it will be obvious if it is flashing or not.
All six of your injectors are hooked to the same 12 volt source, but each injector has it's own channel in the ECM. So if you are not pulsing, you either have a wiring problem, or a ECM problem. Noid lights are a easy way to eliminate the wiring/ECM.

Don't forget to check the compression, that could also be a issue.

GEORGE_JET

As for building one, I would suggest getting some 14 gauge solid wire, and pounding a 1 inch length flat (so that it looks like the pins on the injector).

Get some 20 ~ 22 stranded wire, app 6 inches. Cut it into 2 3 inch pieces, and strip the ends. Cut the flat piece of 14 gauge wire in half, and solder a piece of the stranded wire to each one. The other end of the stranded wire will be soldered to the bulb..

Use heat shrink tubing on all the connections, so that the only conductor showing will be app 1/4 inch of the flat 14 gauge solid wire. It is very important, you do not want to have exposed conductors that can short stuff out.

I'm afraid that I cannot include a picture, ( I'm at work now ), hopefully I have explained this well enought for you to get a idea>

You could look up noid lights on ebay, they have several sets that would give you a idea. But basically you just want something to plug into the harness so that you can check for pulses.
Of course you have to unplug the injector so that you can plug in the noid.

Cling

Whats up George,

So I built the noid light and it worked flawlessly, so I guess that means the wiring going to the injector is good and is pulsing the signal, but even with a new injector its acting as if its not even there. Very strange indeed.

llcoolpass

is the injector working?

Cling

I didnt check it before I put it in, but its brand new, and the engine is still having the exact same problem.

The exact problem is as follows:

Engine sounds pretty bad at idle while in D (at a stop light or something), the shakes the car a slight amount and is noticeable. If I put the car in Park or Neutral, it doesnt sound as bad and no longer shakes. At speed, the car feels and performs flawlessly with no sign of problems other then the engine light being on, the light is solid and does not blink.

GEORGE_JET

Ok, since the noid light was flashing, we can assume that the wiring to the injector and the ecm is good. You have allready swapped coil packs, so the last two possibilities are spark plug and compression. Have you checked compression yet?

GEORGE_JET

One more thought, I believe that this is a wasted spark ignition system(hence three coils for 6 cylinders). Check the resistance of the spark plug wires on that coil. It has been a long time since I have worked on one of these setups, but I seem to recall that it can do some unusual things. I will try to look that up later, after work. But for now, I suggest checking compression, and ohming out the wires (especially the back one, which I know sounds funny, cause the problems on the front cylinder).

Cling

Ok, sad news for me, I have extremely low compression in cylinder #4, I am assuming the ring is completely shot because it reads about 60 PSI max, where the others read 210psi. Sucks. Now how much time will it take me to get to that piston and replace the ring? Do I need to pull the engine, or did I get lucky with it being one of the front 3 cylinders?

Does anybody have any resources I could use for getting to the cylinder?

GEORGE_JET

Don't panic yet, pull the valve cover and check the valve clearance.

Cling

I can do that, whats the gap supposed to be, I wish I had a repair manual handy!

GEORGE_JET

After you get done with checking valve clearance, if it is good, the next step I would recommend is seeing what is leaking. Does you compression gauge have fittings on it that would allow you to hook it up to a compressor? If not, you could knock the guts out of a spark plug, and then have a pipe, fittings welded onto the shell. Bring the cylinder up to top dead center, compression stroke, and then apply air to the cylinder. Listen for air, at the exhaust, throttle body, and oil fill cap.

GEORGE_JET

Also before that, pour a teaspoon of oil into the cylinder and re-check the compression. If it is the rings, the compression will normally go up.
But the upshot is, don't panic yet, you might have a bad headgasket, burnt valve, which would not require pulling the engine. Use these tests to find out where the leakage is.

Cling

You rock george, i'll keep you updated.

Cling

I don't have time tonight to get too in depth, my wife needs the car for work tomorrow, but then I have the whole weekend. Before I came up, I sprayed some oil into the cylinder and re-pressure checked it, I heard you could do that to check the ring seal, if the pressure spikes up with the oil in the cylinder, then the ring is definitely bad. Well the pressure did not spike at all with oil in the cylinder, so I am assuming(hoping) it is elsewhere, hopefully a more accessible spot!

GEORGE_JET

That's actually a good sign, chances are it is a valve, or gasket problem. Next step is check the valve clearance and then pressureize the cylinder as I described before.
Just remember, when you hook up the compressor, make sure that the regulator is turned down first,,, app 30 or so psi. and then listen for the air leak. If you hear nothing, turn the pressure up a little ways.