Cylinder numbering?
04-26-09, 07:48 PM
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Cylinder numbering?
Ok, I have a 96 Lexus ES 300, I am trying to find out which cylinder is the #4 Cylinder on this car. This would help me greatly in troubleshooting a #4 misfire problem I am having.
Edit: Updated problem info
**UPDATE** THIS PROBLEM HAS BEEN FIXED! One of the exhaust valves on the #4 cylinder was severely out of spec, I replaced the spacer and got compression back!
Edit: Updated problem info
Ok, sad news for me, I have extremely low compression in cylinder #4, I am assuming the ring is completely shot because it reads about 60 PSI max, where the others read 210psi. Sucks. Now how much time will it take me to get to that piston and replace the ring? Do I need to pull the engine, or did I get lucky with it being one of the front 3 cylinders?
Does anybody have any resources I could use for getting to the cylinder?
Does anybody have any resources I could use for getting to the cylinder?
Last edited by Cling; 08-22-09 at 07:50 PM.
04-26-09, 08:13 PM
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04-27-09, 08:36 AM
#5
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cylinders on the 1mz-fe and 3vz-fe (or any FWD toyota V6 for that matter) go as follows
cylinders 1,3,5 are on the rear bank facing the firewall...they go in ascending order from the left side of the engine to the right, and cylinders 2,4,6 are on the front bank going the same direction.
on the note of the misfire, have you changed your sparkplugs lately? that could be a cause of the misfire...in addition, try switching the #4 coil pack with the #2 or #6 coilpack and see if the misfire jumps cylindrers....if so, you need a coilpack
cylinders 1,3,5 are on the rear bank facing the firewall...they go in ascending order from the left side of the engine to the right, and cylinders 2,4,6 are on the front bank going the same direction.
on the note of the misfire, have you changed your sparkplugs lately? that could be a cause of the misfire...in addition, try switching the #4 coil pack with the #2 or #6 coilpack and see if the misfire jumps cylindrers....if so, you need a coilpack
04-28-09, 06:21 AM
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Yeah, so far, I have changed the spark plugs and even checked cylinder #4's coil for spark and it was good to go. I suppose the next thing I need to check is fuel injectors?
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05-02-09, 07:11 AM
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Ok, I did some further trouble shooting and it seemed that the fuel injector for #4 was inop (I came to this conclusion because when I shot the connector for it, it was getting a solid 13.9v just like all the other injectors and when I unplugged it from the injector while the car was running their was absolutely no change in the engine idle, yet when I did that to any of the other injectors the idle would get worst.) So I bought a new injector, installed it, even found a cracked vacuum line and repaired it in the process. Car is still running exactly the same, and still when I unplug #4 injector it has no change in the engine idle at all. I am stumped!
05-02-09, 07:51 AM
#9
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Your problem might be further up the fuel stream, you might want to run some fuel injector cleaner through it. Pep Boys sells the Redline Fuel System Cleaner, http://www.redlineoil.com/products_f...p?productID=63 and that's a good one to start, though there is more powerful stuff like BG 44K, http://www.bgprod.com/products/fuelair.html
You'd be surprised at what garbage there is in gas, and I learned the hard way south of the border (2 fried catalytic converters among the casualties).
You'd be surprised at what garbage there is in gas, and I learned the hard way south of the border (2 fried catalytic converters among the casualties).
05-02-09, 08:22 AM
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Your problem might be further up the fuel stream, you might want to run some fuel injector cleaner through it. Pep Boys sells the Redline Fuel System Cleaner, http://www.redlineoil.com/products_f...p?productID=63 and that's a good one to start, though there is more powerful stuff like BG 44K, http://www.bgprod.com/products/fuelair.html
You'd be surprised at what garbage there is in gas, and I learned the hard way south of the border (2 fried catalytic converters among the casualties).
You'd be surprised at what garbage there is in gas, and I learned the hard way south of the border (2 fried catalytic converters among the casualties).
Well I figured that might be true, but when I took out the fuel rail to install the injector it looked clean as a whistle. And since the fuel rail seems to distribute evenly to the forward 3 injectors, wouldnt the other two forward injectors have problems as well? It is only the #4 cylinder injector.
05-02-09, 08:57 AM
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Hey Lex, yeah I was checking out some of you're old posts on the matter.
Well I figured that might be true, but when I took out the fuel rail to install the injector it looked clean as a whistle. And since the fuel rail seems to distribute evenly to the forward 3 injectors, wouldnt the other two forward injectors have problems as well? It is only the #4 cylinder injector.
Well I figured that might be true, but when I took out the fuel rail to install the injector it looked clean as a whistle. And since the fuel rail seems to distribute evenly to the forward 3 injectors, wouldnt the other two forward injectors have problems as well? It is only the #4 cylinder injector.
Something a bit akin to what they do when they run injector for cleaning, http://www.rceng.com/Fuel-Injector-Cleaning-P43C0.aspx
05-02-09, 11:12 AM
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Since you have already tried changing the injector and coil pack, I would recomend checking compression. If it passes the compression test, purchase a noid light (I believe harbor frieght has some cheap ones) or you can build you own with a small 12 volt bulb. Use it to see if the injector is being pulsed.
Basically if it passes compression, you have either a problem with the wiring harness, or the computer.
Basically if it passes compression, you have either a problem with the wiring harness, or the computer.
05-02-09, 12:46 PM
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Ok I double checked harbor frieght, they do not have noid lights. Sears does have a set (listed at $54). You can build your own using a small light bulb and a couple spade pins (small enough to fit into the connector). You will want to use some heat shrink tubing on all exposed connectors because if you short the connector you will damage the ECM.
You stated earlier that you have 13 volt on one side of the injector, good! (one side of injector is hooked to 12 volts via a fuse, fuse link). The other side of the injector is hooked to the ECM, this is the side that is switched. I am curious, because this brings up a interesting point. With KEY ON, ENGINE OFF, using a dvm and backprobing the injector connector, you should see 13 volts on both wires of the connector! This of course is only if you have the injector hooked up while you are measuring it. If you measured the voltage with the connector unhooked, this will not apply
You stated earlier that you have 13 volt on one side of the injector, good! (one side of injector is hooked to 12 volts via a fuse, fuse link). The other side of the injector is hooked to the ECM, this is the side that is switched. I am curious, because this brings up a interesting point. With KEY ON, ENGINE OFF, using a dvm and backprobing the injector connector, you should see 13 volts on both wires of the connector! This of course is only if you have the injector hooked up while you are measuring it. If you measured the voltage with the connector unhooked, this will not apply
Last edited by GEORGE_JET; 05-02-09 at 01:47 PM.
05-02-09, 05:18 PM
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Thats a great freakin' idea george, I will search for it and figure out how to build it.
Yeah, I measured it with power off and the connector un-hooked, i'll tool around with the measurement a bit more though. Just curious, with engine on and running should I see any fluctuation in the voltage at the connector when un-hooked from the injector? Or is that specifically what the light device is for?
Yeah, I measured it with power off and the connector un-hooked, i'll tool around with the measurement a bit more though. Just curious, with engine on and running should I see any fluctuation in the voltage at the connector when un-hooked from the injector? Or is that specifically what the light device is for?