junkyardje

I have a 92 es300 with recent JDM swap.. I replaced the O2 sensors temp sensor cat converter.. air filter.. When I first start the car up it idles fine but I have to wait for it to warm up before I can go anywhere because it hesistates.. once it makes temp it is fine.. but I am still getting poor gas milage Anyone have any ideas..Maybe the maf? Also the cruise control isnt working either? Anyone know how to run the dianostic on that as well?
Thanks
jimmy

llcoolpass

let me guess,. your work at a junkyard and are piecing together a lexus es 300?

is it a 5spd or 4spdauto trans?

what condition is the car in/have you been maintainined it for recent years // the like // ?

have you done ANY searches on this site for your issues first?

what exact m.p.g. did you get on a good amount of gasoline [12+ gallons filled] ? you might be surprised to find out that it's normal to achieve just/an amazing [depends on perspective] 17 to 20 mpg if you primarily do ''around town/grocery getting" in a suburb setting.

does the hesistation happen at the same speed , every time the car is driven cold statup, and then after a min or two it doesn't do it anymore-- and usually aroudn 20mph? if so, it's 90%+ chance the VAF [I forget a.t.m. how most people on here refer to it, I think they just call it MAF which is somewhat inaccurate] -- you can adjust it and clean it -- or you can simply replace it. Costs 5 dollars to do a really nice job fixing the old one [takes 20 minutes tops], or new one for I dont know 500 dollars.

I and a handful of people on here know a crap load , and a bunch of people have a moderate expertise, about this particular car. I have several things I want to tell you about , but explaining it would not be fun since it's on here already and my hands are arthritic.

here's some things to research:

VAF mod / MAF modification

exhaust leaks

P.S. check out videos that maniax, and bdub and I put on youtube showcasing the 92/93 es 300 performance .. we're pretty much the #1 clips that come up

junkyardje

It only hesitates from a cold start up. once it reaches temp its seems to be allright. I have had the car since 1999 I have done all the repairs on the car. I am a pretty able mechanic. It is an AUtomatic BTW can I test the MAF for ohm's? I would really like to get to the root of the problem. Without having to be taken to the cleaner by the dealer.. I used to get much better MPG.. before the engine swap.. High teens or low twenties.. Now I am in the like the single digits..I will try those searches that you gave me. I allways try to search before I post something up. Thanks for you help. I got a big date this weekend and would like to have this repaired for then..
Thanks
Jim

llcoolpass

did the import engine have the EGR crap... i mean wonderful [i love you EPA, please dont storm trooper me] .... on it?

can you ellaborate much more [microdetail] on the hesistation

junkyardje

ok.. lets see.. after the car has been sitting overnight. I will come out the next morning and start the car.. it will start normally. Thenif I dont let it warm up and try to go up any type of grade at all. It will bog down come near stalling. If I pull over and let it run for abit till its starts to make temperature. It will be fine. As far as the emissions stuff I swaped that over from the old engine. I have been thinking about a seafoam treatment but I really dont think that is going to solve my problem. Could there be a fuel leak? I have checked and I dont see anything. or really smell it for that matter. I hope this info helps you out. I am probably going to the junkyard in the AM tomm..
Jim

llcoolpass

that's all you can tell me? so it's not the thing I told you before about the certain speed and then it goes away thing? if so, i have more theories, here's the next one:

on a cold engine check the coolant level at the filler neck. is filled up to the tippy top, and has no air in the system [done a air bleed procedure before?]

any codes [obviously reset it first then drive around since when you did the swap you may have gained a couple codes while you were still putting it togther and testing things]?

junkyardje

its not at a certain speed.. Its only when I first start it up after it has been sitting for abit.. other than that it is fine once it reaches temp.. before it reaches temp I cant go up any hills or when I attempt to hit the throttle it hesistaes and or bogs down

llcoolpass

how can I help you?

junkyardje

well thanks anyway... I guess I am back off to being disgusted...

lexpilot

junkyard, I have 2 1997 300s and one had a similar problem until the emission system computer went into closed loop condition after the coolant sensor said it was warm enough to lean the mixture for normal temp.
It turned out to be a bad spot in the throttle position sensor not sending a signal to feed more fuel.
I don't know if the 93 has a system like this or not try unplugging the tps and it will go to full rich mode and should keep up when the throttle plate is opened.
Good luck and let us know what you find,
Shame on you LL!

llcoolpass

what'd I do wrong? I said like three things and he replies only to one -- totally oblivious and sodium flouridated. prove me wrong.

you have a hesistation at all speeds and all amount of gas pedal usage until the car is warmed up to some temperature [perhaps normal operating temperature], correct or not?

there are a bunch of things, nothing magic or special, to check for using a repair guide and experience. i mean you dont really think people are going to diagnose your car through a chat room [for free on top of it]. But we're here to help

anyway, like I said, check the coolant level, check for codes. my thinking was the same as lexpilot, except not that particular part as being first to check out, but instead the theory as it related to coolant temp sensor.

and if you do check ou tthe TPS, you might want an oscilloscope or better. analog multimeter minumum. NO digital multimeters [with the simple readout]

GEORGE_JET

I agree about the coolant temp sensor, that could explain the symptoms. I would like to point out though that there are two temp senders, one for the dash gauge. And one for the ECM. Do not look at the temp gauge and assume that since it is working, everything is fine, (just thought I should point that out, most of us are well aware of this, but just wanted to make sure junkyardje is aware).

As far as the tps, the only reliable way is with a scope, analog meters are good (but where are you going to find one of those?). A DVM is almost totally useless for testing the condition of the switch (but is fine for checking the idle voltage setting).

But if the car is running fine once much warmed up, I would be much more inclined to believe a temp sensor problem.

By the way, the temp sensor for the dash gauge is towards the front of the engine (timming belt). The temp sensor for the ECM is located near the rear of the engine (close to the torque converter).

junkyardje

well... I did some more fishing around today.. there was a small break in the vacuum hose that was going to the fuel pressure relay. I replaced the hose.. Hopefully that will resolve the matter I guess Ill know in the AM when I start it.. Hopefully the hesistation will be gone and the fuel mileage will get better as well..

junkyardje

vacuum leak didnt fix the problem... back to the drawing board..

llcoolpass

the problem only started when you replaced the engine with a jdm version? what year was the JDM engine? did you get a JDM computer too?

why did you replace the engine in the first place?

did you have to swap any parts or sensors to the JDM engine - or buy new and install?