ralfuller

Have you replaced the spark plugs yet? Sometimes they get old and carbonized; when they sit overnight they get damp and thus hard to start. Hope that helps...

GEORGE_JET

I'm also glad to hear that you fixed it. I know that it is hard to believe that something like the crankshaft sensor can be intermitent. There really is not much inside a reluctance senor, but I have seen it enough times before so that I firmly believe that it does happen.

ourmethod

well the reason i believe it was intermident is because it was cracked and letting moister in. where it would screw in, the curved part of the o-ring was completely gone. This could also explain the knocking noise i heard from that area the night before the car went dead.

GEORGE_JET

I have replaced several (I used to work professionally as a mechanic), that had no sign of physical damage. But anyways, it sounds like you have found the root cause, which I am glad to hear.

llcoolpass

the question is, does the 94's computer not switch to a camshaft position sensor as a backup system to run the car or start the car?

cu2cool

I have a 97' ES300, which also suffers from cold starts. It starts fine on days warmer than 32 degrees Farenheit, but on colder days it takes at least two tries. Last winter I had the same problem but there came a point where I could not get it to start at all. I eventually had the starter replaced, and that worked for me. This year I'm still having to start more than once. Do I have to replace the crankshaft sensor as well? I've been using HEET to prevent fuel line freezing, and give the gas pedal a few pumps before starting. Still I have to start twice before getting it to go.

llcoolpass

what does it mean when you say ''start twice'' ? think about it and be specific

you're adding HEET. i know what that is. i wouldn't add that anymore.

you say you had new starter put in. if that worked, why are you having aproblem now -- could it be the starter is bad, or whatever was done during starter install could be done now >??

have you had your batt, charging system and alternator tested using diag machine? autozone and aap use this machine to check for free you know that?

cu2cool

When I say start the car, I mean turning the key for the ignition. The first time, you hear a cranking noise usually. Then the second time I try again the engine starts.

What is the downside to using HEET? I don't think it effects my starting problem because it happens whether I use it or not. Plus I don't want my gas line to freeze.

I've had my battery checked a few months ago, and I think they said it was charging OK, but maybe needed to be replaced in the near future. I was just gonna wait till it died on me or require a jump start before I consider to buy a new one.

llcoolpass

starting doesn't mean cranking/turning the engine over. that's the reason I asked you to define it and think about it. I still dont think you quiet comprehended that funny situation.

Dont use the heet anymore. you're going the wrong way thinking that's the problem.

you need to have a charging, starting, battery test done. one machine does it all. AAP and autozone do it for free. do that then come back and well take it from there.

12340987

Yeah, gasoline will still burn at -97F. I would only use HEET in carburetted vehicles and only if they sit all winter.

I have a similar problem and notice my belt was loose (DOH). Another common culprit is the coolant temperature sensor. I haven't done anything yet though because it was farking cold and it's finals week.

Also my battery died, I assume because it wasn't making good contact (also, it was farking cold.), so yeah, charging/battery/grounding/electrical issues are a common thing.

The only thing is to get the alt and battery tested you have to remove them, don't you?

llcoolpass

the machine does it on car. it takes 5 -10 minutes. im still waiting to hear the result. did i mention places do it for free?

cu2cool

So I got my results from AAP. The battery test shows that it's a good battery.

Voltage: 12.70V
Measured: 498 CCA
Rated: 575 CCA
Temperature: 22F

Starter Test shows:

Cranking: Normal
Voltage: 10.38V
Amps: 212.3A
Time: 921mS

Charging System Test shows:

No Problems

No Load: 14.45V, 3.2A
Loaded: 14.43V, 2.1A
Ripple: 36mV

Charging System Output Test:

Normal
Drain Test: 0.03A

I was told by the AAP worker that maybe my battery has too low a CCA rate. He said that newer battery models have CCA rated at 700 or 800, which may make it easier to start in the cold temps. So should I get a new battery then?

llcoolpass

at that temperature and those numbers seem OK. when i changed my batt fall/winter of 07, i got the biggest one that fits both your and my car, the 24f-6, , i got it from aap, it was a autolite with the longest warranty [red sticker??].

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_Gold-Battery,-700-CCA,-Group-Size-24F-Autocraft_2130001-P_340_R|GRPBATTAM2_1048299779___

when i start in cold weather recently, 20f, and car been driving for like 15 min /day [short trip, but i have a manual trans and do things try to maintain charge with headlights/radio usuage] .... the starting is a little slow but works just fine. i guess i should go have it done to compare , for your sake, but to also chronicle the aging process of my battery and to check the rest of the system.

anyway, your battery is putting out enough amp to start. I dont think you NEED to get a battery.

anyway, your alt load test seems aweful. i dont get how it passed. did they up the engine speed [RPM]? its a bit bizarre the load test is lower than no load. no load is how much the system is being used to charge the battery [mostly]. i dont think the numbers are bad there, but the no load is just baffling to me. another thing they should have done is turned on the headlights, the full fan speed on full, and then rev and kept the engine at 2000 rpm for 10 sec or so

llcoolpass

cu2cool, go back to aap , mak sure alt test is done right. also, have them check your ecu for DTC codes. also a free service. let us know whats in there....