2000 ES300 Nakamichi Sub Replacement
12-20-09, 04:45 PM
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2000 ES300 Nakamichi Sub Replacement
i just bought a 2000 ES300 Platinum Edition w/ the Nakamichi stereo, it sounds excellent, but the stock sub is blown, and its driving me crazy! even with the bass turned all the way down it still rattles, i cant stand it, i cant find anyone selling these online, does anyone know where i can get one without getting raped by the dealer? or know of an aftermarket one with close to the same specs that i can drop in there? im not looking to get a whole sub+amp setup, i really like the stock sound, any help will be greatly appreciated, thanks
12-20-09, 04:56 PM
#2
Lexus Champion
maybe you can ask lexus , email them. say you want the speaker detailed specs. then you can find aftermarket that is close to it.
the way many people would go is a junkyard, though
the way many people would go is a junkyard, though
12-20-09, 06:47 PM
#3
Freestyle, looks like your new to CL, first off, welcome to CL. Ive attached a link to an old thread I started regarding your issue. Also, friendly advice, you can find alot using the search link above. Just thought I tell you, before others tell you in a different way, lol. https://www.clublexus.com/forums/es3...-es-300-a.html
Word to the wise, get a sub that is 4ohms and as low as 35 or 40 watts minimum and you will need to make some modifications in order to get the rear brake light cover to snap back in place. If your rear sub is like my 98 ES, then your rear brake light and speaker cover are attached and snap into the holes that are attached to the OEM sub woofer bracket. You'll need to cut off the old sub from the bracket frame in order to have the cover snap in place again. Good luck bro.
Word to the wise, get a sub that is 4ohms and as low as 35 or 40 watts minimum and you will need to make some modifications in order to get the rear brake light cover to snap back in place. If your rear sub is like my 98 ES, then your rear brake light and speaker cover are attached and snap into the holes that are attached to the OEM sub woofer bracket. You'll need to cut off the old sub from the bracket frame in order to have the cover snap in place again. Good luck bro.
12-20-09, 07:50 PM
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yeah im new to this forum, but not new to forums in general, im on one for my mr2 
i did search the topic but couldnt find exactly what i was looking for, im surprised i cant find this damn sub on the internet, i really want to keep it stock and get the right replacement, but i went to a local reputable car audio shop by me and he told me this was common problem, and i could either find the oem replacement or he can get me a JL that would fit but it wouldnt sound as good as stock, and for those prices i could just buy the infinity bass link which has gotten very good reviews, i just really dont want to go that route
i did search the topic but couldnt find exactly what i was looking for, im surprised i cant find this damn sub on the internet, i really want to keep it stock and get the right replacement, but i went to a local reputable car audio shop by me and he told me this was common problem, and i could either find the oem replacement or he can get me a JL that would fit but it wouldnt sound as good as stock, and for those prices i could just buy the infinity bass link which has gotten very good reviews, i just really dont want to go that route
12-21-09, 12:40 AM
#5
Lexus Champion
but there are much more in depth details than nominal impedance that will affect the sound you hear from the sub. that's why I suggest you stick with the lexus subwoofer or find the specs and find a matching replacement. i recommend a junkyard because it will be the same model, and cheaper than new one.
12-21-09, 03:03 PM
#7
Lexus Champion
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12-21-09, 03:04 PM
#8
Lexus Champion
another pioneer but cheaper at the moment anyway:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1997-...item414ad32055
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1997-...item414ad32055
12-21-09, 03:10 PM
#9
Lexus Champion
what the model number and any other stuff you see written on the back of the speaker? i say this because i am trying to see if some other stuff under different description is same speaker.
12-21-09, 03:14 PM
#10
Lexus Champion
the basic specs on this speakers are quite excelent. i wonder if this is almost the same exact speaker and can be installed in your es 300
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NEW-N...item4a9c8ead15
also, here is a 5 dollar guide on removal and install in your car:
althought there are info on this in the 97 FSM probably, and on websites like clublexus
http://www.carstereoremoval.com/htm/...S30098_98P.htm
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NEW-N...item4a9c8ead15
also, here is a 5 dollar guide on removal and install in your car:
althought there are info on this in the 97 FSM probably, and on websites like clublexus
http://www.carstereoremoval.com/htm/...S30098_98P.htm
12-21-09, 04:38 PM
#11
^^^^^That looks like a decent sub woofer, but wondering if minimum RMS goes down to 35 or 40 watts, just says 200 RMS. My experience with high wattage subs, may tax the OEM amp and fry it, that's what happened to mine. I had to get a sub that had a min. of 30 or 40 watts since thats what the OEM amp puts out.
12-21-09, 10:53 PM
#13
Lexus Champion
freestyle, yes, let us know.
angry medic,
here's how electronics and speakers work
when you see minumum RMS watts and maximum RMS watts it means nothing. power ratings can't be RMS, so, when you see that, you know its bull shat meant to guide you a certain way. their guidance might be good, bbut might be BS too you never know on that.
speakers can be driven by low wattage or high wattage. usually there is safe maximum because the coil can over heat, the woofer can move too fast even within its safe range of operation [as in frequencies] that it rips in some way. there is even risk of fire.
what often happens is something technical that is the factor of the amp to stabilize the speaker from its movement to stop moving . this damping factor is not very good in a 20 dollar amp, but is very good in a 400 dollar amp.
since 90db at 1 meter at 1 watt is fairly loud average sound level, 100 watts is even more ear damaging and unlikely to be useful.
as amp wattage ratings go up, so does their tendency to have better capability to dampen the speaker, play with no distortion, and have a higher price.
distortion kills a speaker faster than going above an engineers recommended maximum continuous-power.
what I would guess really happened to your OEM amp was that you
A) played it at max level into the sub, because the amp was really designed for non subs, and couldn't handle the speakers need for dampining at that max level ... perhaps also the sub was low sensitivity thus wouldn't be loud without you maxing the amp out wearing it out in the process and combination of that and the other factors i mentioned and mention next
B) your sub actual impedendance [or even, if you made mistake, nominal impedance] was far lower than the amp's design requirement. you exceeded this , over heating the amp, and killed transistors or shorted parts out. this one is a biggy.
angry medic,
here's how electronics and speakers work
when you see minumum RMS watts and maximum RMS watts it means nothing. power ratings can't be RMS, so, when you see that, you know its bull shat meant to guide you a certain way. their guidance might be good, bbut might be BS too you never know on that.
speakers can be driven by low wattage or high wattage. usually there is safe maximum because the coil can over heat, the woofer can move too fast even within its safe range of operation [as in frequencies] that it rips in some way. there is even risk of fire.
what often happens is something technical that is the factor of the amp to stabilize the speaker from its movement to stop moving . this damping factor is not very good in a 20 dollar amp, but is very good in a 400 dollar amp.
since 90db at 1 meter at 1 watt is fairly loud average sound level, 100 watts is even more ear damaging and unlikely to be useful.
as amp wattage ratings go up, so does their tendency to have better capability to dampen the speaker, play with no distortion, and have a higher price.
distortion kills a speaker faster than going above an engineers recommended maximum continuous-power.
what I would guess really happened to your OEM amp was that you
A) played it at max level into the sub, because the amp was really designed for non subs, and couldn't handle the speakers need for dampining at that max level ... perhaps also the sub was low sensitivity thus wouldn't be loud without you maxing the amp out wearing it out in the process and combination of that and the other factors i mentioned and mention next
B) your sub actual impedendance [or even, if you made mistake, nominal impedance] was far lower than the amp's design requirement. you exceeded this , over heating the amp, and killed transistors or shorted parts out. this one is a biggy.
Last edited by llcoolpass; 12-21-09 at 10:57 PM.
01-13-10, 08:22 PM
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so i found a local guy selling a sub out of a lexus that was hit in the front, he wants $50 for it, is there a way to tell if its blown just by a visual inspection???
01-13-10, 09:06 PM
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Just drive your car over there, plug in the sub and test it. You should be able to tell right away whether or not it is blown. A visual inspection won't tell you everything. You should be able to plug it in without installing it to test it out.