Sludge advice
12-27-09, 09:20 AM
#1
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Sludge advice
Hello All,
95 ES300
Old member First time post...This is a Great site with Great shared knowledge...So never had a reason to post before you all have already posted my answers.
Decided to change out my VCG and took a pick with the VC off. Does this look normal?
Only about 111K on engine. Have no information on previous owners maintenance. Any advice on additives to get her cleaned up a bit. I attached pic of car also, she is still a good runner and still looks good. Thanks for any advice.
[IMG]
[/IMG]
Oh ya doesn't everyone have a HULK poster in their garage???
95 ES300
Old member First time post...This is a Great site with Great shared knowledge...So never had a reason to post before you all have already posted my answers.
Decided to change out my VCG and took a pick with the VC off. Does this look normal?
Only about 111K on engine. Have no information on previous owners maintenance. Any advice on additives to get her cleaned up a bit. I attached pic of car also, she is still a good runner and still looks good. Thanks for any advice.[IMG]
[/IMG]Oh ya doesn't everyone have a HULK poster in their garage???
12-27-09, 10:41 AM
#2
Lexus Champion
that car looks great. i can tell its been garaged by prev owner and such. thing looks brand new.
engine is sludged. the rear head will be 2 or 3 times worse. the front is little sludged. i think your engine can be saved with treatment and specific oil procedures. i wont get into it here because you can find that info everywhere.
so, now you will try to address the sludge, once you do that, replace the rear vcg and replace the rear spark plugs while there.
best advice i can give you. i am optimistic you can save this one before it's too late.
then it will look more like:
engine is sludged. the rear head will be 2 or 3 times worse. the front is little sludged. i think your engine can be saved with treatment and specific oil procedures. i wont get into it here because you can find that info everywhere.
so, now you will try to address the sludge, once you do that, replace the rear vcg and replace the rear spark plugs while there.
best advice i can give you. i am optimistic you can save this one before it's too late.
then it will look more like:
12-27-09, 01:48 PM
#3
Lexus Champion
that car looks great. i can tell its been garaged by prev owner and such. thing looks brand new.
engine is sludged. the rear head will be 2 or 3 times worse. the front is little sludged. i think your engine can be saved with treatment and specific oil procedures. i wont get into it here because you can find that info everywhere.
so, now you will try to address the sludge, once you do that, replace the rear vcg and replace the rear spark plugs while there.
best advice i can give you. i am optimistic you can save this one before it's too late.
then it will look more like:
engine is sludged. the rear head will be 2 or 3 times worse. the front is little sludged. i think your engine can be saved with treatment and specific oil procedures. i wont get into it here because you can find that info everywhere.
so, now you will try to address the sludge, once you do that, replace the rear vcg and replace the rear spark plugs while there.
best advice i can give you. i am optimistic you can save this one before it's too late.
then it will look more like:
What is the difference between the picture that g8ts posed here, and the picture of my engine that I posted earlier this week. [See my post and pictures dated December 22nd, 2009 Titled "01 Es300 Valve Cover Removal for Sludge inspection"
Last edited by PFB; 12-27-09 at 01:54 PM.
12-27-09, 01:53 PM
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thanks
Coolpass,
Thanks I'll look around the forum for de-sludge process! Glad to here you think she will make it.
Right now I have no problems, runs like a top and gets great MPG.
Was reading a little about Mobile truck oil and the extra detergents, may try the change run a couple 1,000 miles repeat... for another couple 1,000 miles.
Changed the rear plugs when I first got it so the rear VCG should not be that bad. I'll do a de-sludge and report back with new pic's.
If she cleans up good, I'll change to a Synthetic full or blend. My opinion on all the write up's on Dino or Synthetic is why not go with the newer technology. If anything it takes the heat better and the price well your talking a small investment Yearly to keep your engine in good clean shape.
Seems like a no brain-er to me
Thanks I'll look around the forum for de-sludge process! Glad to here you think she will make it.
Right now I have no problems, runs like a top and gets great MPG.
Was reading a little about Mobile truck oil and the extra detergents, may try the change run a couple 1,000 miles repeat... for another couple 1,000 miles.
Changed the rear plugs when I first got it so the rear VCG should not be that bad. I'll do a de-sludge and report back with new pic's.
If she cleans up good, I'll change to a Synthetic full or blend. My opinion on all the write up's on Dino or Synthetic is why not go with the newer technology. If anything it takes the heat better and the price well your talking a small investment Yearly to keep your engine in good clean shape.
Seems like a no brain-er to me
12-27-09, 01:59 PM
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PFB,
Come on your kidding?
That looks 10 times cleaner than mine!
Yours is silver and clean where mine is brown and built up grime. I could have scrapped the residue up on mine but did not want to dis-lodge any big particules that could possibly cause a oil flow problem. I'd rather let some detergent clean it slowly.
Come on your kidding?
That looks 10 times cleaner than mine!
Yours is silver and clean where mine is brown and built up grime. I could have scrapped the residue up on mine but did not want to dis-lodge any big particules that could possibly cause a oil flow problem. I'd rather let some detergent clean it slowly.
12-27-09, 02:11 PM
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PFB,
Come on your kidding?
That looks 10 times cleaner than mine!
Yours is silver and clean where mine is brown and built up grime. I could have scrapped the residue up on mine but did not want to dis-lodge any big particules that could possibly cause a oil flow problem. I'd rather let some detergent clean it slowly.
Come on your kidding?
That looks 10 times cleaner than mine!
Yours is silver and clean where mine is brown and built up grime. I could have scrapped the residue up on mine but did not want to dis-lodge any big particules that could possibly cause a oil flow problem. I'd rather let some detergent clean it slowly.
Ok on further review,
I did not notice you quoted coolpass and his photo. I went back and looked up your post from Dec.22nd. I agree yours looks "about" similar. But I'd think mine looks a little more gunked up. I'll try some high detergent oil changes and report back with some pic's.
12-27-09, 02:23 PM
#7
Lexus Champion
g8ts, here is your Engine (Top Picture) , and my Engine (Bottom Picture). So except for the discrepancies between our cameras, where is the Sludge? All I see is some harmless varnish in both engines.
Can someone please point-out where they see any sludge, in either engines?
Phil
Can someone please point-out where they see any sludge, in either engines?
Phil
Last edited by PFB; 12-27-09 at 04:12 PM.
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12-27-09, 03:28 PM
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That's typical Dino oil varnish for the mileage w a little buildup but I've seen way worse. Don't de-sludge anything or you risk clogging an oil passage and blowing it up. Run Mobil one EP. It has great detergents and will clean off a lot of that varnish safely.
Check it again in 20k with the m1 and you will like what u see. You have the right idea definitely. Some people on here think engines with 100k on Dino oil should look new.
Not the case..... hell keep putting conventional in it and it'll still do 200k plus.
Check it again in 20k with the m1 and you will like what u see. You have the right idea definitely. Some people on here think engines with 100k on Dino oil should look new.
Not the case..... hell keep putting conventional in it and it'll still do 200k plus.
12-27-09, 07:21 PM
#9
The following pics are from SUPERCHARGED 1MZ-FE Engines that I have PERSONALLY worked on.
NONE have sludge.
~110k miles, history unknown. This was right after car was bought. Boosted @ 4PSI
~90k miles, Rings going bad. Boosted @ 4PSI
MY car around 115k miles (I think) right before boosting. 149k miles now @ 6PSI, and I drive it like I'm racing it. Well, I DO race it, lol. Had it on a 1/3 mile over track as well as the 1/4 mile drag.
NONE of the pics have any measureable amount of sludge. Mine is the worst of the 3. I've changed Valve Cover Gasket's on I think 4 or 5 other 1MZ's, and all looked similiar.
NONE have sludge.
~110k miles, history unknown. This was right after car was bought. Boosted @ 4PSI
~90k miles, Rings going bad. Boosted @ 4PSI
MY car around 115k miles (I think) right before boosting. 149k miles now @ 6PSI, and I drive it like I'm racing it. Well, I DO race it, lol. Had it on a 1/3 mile over track as well as the 1/4 mile drag.
NONE of the pics have any measureable amount of sludge. Mine is the worst of the 3. I've changed Valve Cover Gasket's on I think 4 or 5 other 1MZ's, and all looked similiar.
12-27-09, 09:22 PM
#11
Lexus Champion
in post 1, in this thread, there is actual sludge in that picture. not just the varnish so typical of your 1mz-fe engines.
now, why you guys all decided to post pictures of sludge free engines is probably from some guilt that you dont have the 3vz-fe. i send my virtual hug to you.
this is the REAR valve train ~144K miles 1993 3vz-fe ....... just normal oil change intervals and a hard life towing a boat and going 145 mph [when not] .......
now, why you guys all decided to post pictures of sludge free engines is probably from some guilt that you dont have the 3vz-fe. i send my virtual hug to you.
this is the REAR valve train ~144K miles 1993 3vz-fe ....... just normal oil change intervals and a hard life towing a boat and going 145 mph [when not] .......
Last edited by llcoolpass; 12-27-09 at 09:27 PM.
12-27-09, 09:37 PM
#13
Lexus Champion
asg, strangely, that is one of the best looking 1mz-fe as far as oil breakdown Ive seen ..... despite the fact its boosted and wearing out as you indicated......
g8ts, yeah smart move with the slow process -- if instead you try removing that muck, youll see, its like ....tar, and will be hard to remove the whole thing without like pieces falling off into the recessed areas of the head. your best most expensive move would be to get the whole engine cleaned out or replaces. your cheapest move would be to get some diesel engine oil, as long as its suitable for winter weather where you're at [its usually 15w40 so be aware], and change it and the filter every 1500 -- two such times -- then do a valve cover remove visual check. another thing you might do but you have to be very careful is to use seafoam. either way, it might take multiple instances before its all said and done. your engine is not in the REALLLY bad stage yet, it seems. naturally, what happens to cause the engine to fail usually is the oil strainer cloges up -- oil pressure problems -- bearing failures [usually main bearing or connecting rod big end bearing] the other thing that happens over time is the parts dont cool off properly / heat distribution, causing fatigue and more.
its pssible when your engine is getting cleaner that it will fail from that from something being disloged. so be aware of that. but the benefits obviously outweigh the risks.
g8ts, yeah smart move with the slow process -- if instead you try removing that muck, youll see, its like ....tar, and will be hard to remove the whole thing without like pieces falling off into the recessed areas of the head. your best most expensive move would be to get the whole engine cleaned out or replaces. your cheapest move would be to get some diesel engine oil, as long as its suitable for winter weather where you're at [its usually 15w40 so be aware], and change it and the filter every 1500 -- two such times -- then do a valve cover remove visual check. another thing you might do but you have to be very careful is to use seafoam. either way, it might take multiple instances before its all said and done. your engine is not in the REALLLY bad stage yet, it seems. naturally, what happens to cause the engine to fail usually is the oil strainer cloges up -- oil pressure problems -- bearing failures [usually main bearing or connecting rod big end bearing] the other thing that happens over time is the parts dont cool off properly / heat distribution, causing fatigue and more.
its pssible when your engine is getting cleaner that it will fail from that from something being disloged. so be aware of that. but the benefits obviously outweigh the risks.
Last edited by llcoolpass; 12-27-09 at 09:46 PM.
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