03 ES

Take it from a fellow toyota tech....its much easier to just replace the engine with a low milage JDM 3vzfe....an engine swap will take you a day or two, and a rebuild will take weeks...youll spend less money on a swap as well

Gerson

iTrader: (1)

That's true man, U must worked for Toyota longer than I have so I'll take your opinion as a consideration. I'll find another motor and swap it. Will keep my old motor and rebuild it on my free time.

llcoolpass

just dont forget about the 3.3 .... many have done it [on similar platform] search the web, see if you want to do it. it will very likely cost more though, but, yeah, worth it - probably.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PGGN_6MmPeg

i had a choice in my own situation, i would probably just 3Vz-fe. but if i had another car, somewhere indoors to work on es, and money, i would experiment to putting hte 3Mz-fe in.

03 ES

Gerson, im a toyota expert level tech...ive been at it for about 3 years now....

FYI, the 1mz and 3vz are almost mechanically identical...the main difference is that the 1mz has an aluminum block/heads instead of iron block/aluminum heads like the 3vz..they have different electrical systems and the like, bur they share many common parts, which is how the s/c from a 1mz can be easily adapted to the 3vz.....it would be very easy to upgrade to a 1mz if you desire an engine with less chances of blowing its headgasket....the early toyota V6 engines (3vz-e, 2vz-fe, 3vz-fe) have a history of headgasket issues thanks to the iron block/aluminum head design...In fact, the 1mz engine dates back to the original 3vz-e V6 from the early toyota 4runner and truck (88-94)...toyota took the block, gave it better flowing DOHC 24v heads and called it the 3vz-fe, which became the 1mz and later the 3mz.....toyota tends to use the same engines for long spans of time (the R 4cyl and M I6 engines lasted for 30+ years)

if it was me id swap in the 1mz and throwing on a TRD s/c...but only because i like the 1mz.

TheKevin

iTrader: (6)

i'm gonna put my money on a BHG. i had a '92 Camry V6 that had the same problems @ 182,xxx miles. i bought a low mileage JDM motor that was supposed to have ~30,xxx miles. after a year, same thing happened again, BHG.

llcoolpass

while the 1mz-fe is very similar in dimensions and is based on the 3vz-fe, its not 'the same engine but just different metal.'

i dont recommend using the 1mzfe for your car, it's particularly bad at low end torque, which with the 5spd will be noticeable. you will feel like you lost a lot of power. it also costs more to do this, different ecu and wiring and air flow meter and exhaust. for what gain? none. the 3vzfe is almost more powerful and suffers not the same level knock sensor problems.

03 es, whose side are you on? or are you jealous of the 3vz-fe? lol VZ envy
the 3vz-e is the one with all the head gasket problems, the 3vz-fe truly only has normal castiron-block - al-alloy head wear and tear from the soft oem head gaskets.... ways to improve on that though, just google it, since the 5vz-fe suffers from quicker failures and is similar design many have chimed in.

the 3vz-fe is best for ex turbo charging.

also, that surpercharger for the 1mzfe works on the 3vz-fe, too, with only an extra step. ask "asg14" about it.

I want to mention something important going back to the problem itself, it's worth checking out the PCV system just to be sure, even though its unlikely. if that's fine, then its rings, valve stem bushing and/or head gasket as others and myself have already said.

don't be afraid that the new engine will blow a head gasket though, since you can change them out to MLS or copper with the engine outta the car....... and so on.

the 3.4 5vz-fe , maybe you mod that with the 3vzfe heads, and youll have even better than the 3.3 ... [but worse off for turboing, worse off reliability turbo or not turboed, unless well moded to deal with head gasket and strength [althought not terrible]]. let me clear up what im saying, the 3vzfe is a little bit stronger [block] than the 5vzfe.

good luck

97'ES

i'd go 1mz or 3 mz. they weigh 60 pounds less due to the alum. block, electronic ignition, and the peak torque of a 1mz is ten foot pounds higher than a 94+ 3vz and peak torque actually arrives 200 rpm earlier + 10 more horses. Run synthetic and the supposed sludge problem is no more. 3mz has over 220 horses. Seems like a no brainer if you get the electronics right. I might not wanna mess with the electronics either though and just throw in a 3vz with a fresh head gasket. Good engine.

llcoolpass

97es,
you're 'totally' wrong on the torque curve of the 3vz-fe versus the 1mz-fe. and youre 'ordinarily' wrong when regarding the vvti version of the 1mz-fe.

one day, im going to put a physics lesson on torque and engines for this site.

and 97es, what is your thoughts on a franken motor, 5Vz-fe block with 3Vz-fe heads[or just cams]?

references: torque curve charts for each engine, CL member: asg14, physics books and research, various experts, my ego, sir isaac newton, galileo, my car is faster than yours.

03 ES

im still saying the easiest way to do this is to buy a low milage 3vz-fe, replace the headgaskets, tbelt/waterpump etc and just drop it in your ES. its easy and cost effective.

LL, im on your side...using the same engine that came stock is by far the easiest way...im partial to the 1mz myself but i have nothing against the 3vz.

also, talk to adam (asg14). hes a walking encyclopedia on these cars

LSIntender

For anyone searching under SLUDGE I had the same smoking problem the additive at NAPA previously mentioned worked for me mine smoked for a week and a half and when it was done I added more oil to replace the spent additive and it WORKED!!! NO MORE BLUE SMOKE EVER I was so happy had to tell yall. BTW this is a 98 ES with 170000 miles.

EngHead44

Why is everyone's first response to get a JDM motor? Many motors from companies such as Toyota (other "JDM" brands too) build their engines in both places. That is why they have 2 part numbers for the same things sometimes. One part is used in the USA the other somewhere else.

On another note, but a JDM and your buyin a used engine. You already have a used engine! Rebuild the one you have! DUH! It is a no brianer. And to anyone who thinks that it is harder to do that than do an engine swap, IT IS! BUT IT IS BETTER. Do you want a brand new engine or the same thing you already have with who knows how many miles on it?

If your too lazy to do it yourself, or lack something (tooling, know-how, etc) buy a rebuilt one. People sell rebuilt motors all the time. Check out Jasper Engines. They offer a 100,000 mile warranty. Its like hitting the reset button on your car.

12340987

Might wanna check the PVC