shift cable bushing [transmission terminal] replacement firstgen 92/93
02-05-10, 07:00 PM
#16
Lexus Champion
Thread Starter
Let me know what you guys are thinking. I just updated with pics and video in my last couple posts.
Also, check this out, not that I needed it per se sincE I have the FSM, but this is pretty cool backup:
http://www.rsgear.com/articles/1997_12.pdf
Also, check this out, not that I needed it per se sincE I have the FSM, but this is pretty cool backup:
http://www.rsgear.com/articles/1997_12.pdf
Last edited by llcoolpass; 02-05-10 at 10:14 PM.
02-07-10, 11:22 PM
#17
Lexus Champion
Thread Starter
important update
Where are you "Select Inner Lever???" [ignore date here, battery died].
What anthropogenic global warming looks like:
but seriously, am I mistaken, or is something that is supposed to be there, something solid metal just GONE ????
fairly good overlay:
so what do you guys think?
What anthropogenic global warming looks like:
but seriously, am I mistaken, or is something that is supposed to be there, something solid metal just GONE ????
fairly good overlay:
so what do you guys think?
02-08-10, 12:21 AM
#18
Lexus Champion
Thread Starter
i looked through the hole, probed with flashlight, used camera and stuck a magnetic pick up tool in there to see if i caught any fish of the "select inner lever" variety. nothing, but it was cool , i could seethe gears inside the trans, and the shift fork ''paws'' where there the inner levers are supposed to make contact. naturally, there is one DIRECTLY where that missing thing is, so im guessing its some kind of error. ting of it is, there is no hole in the shaft where the pin that would hold the "select inner lever" would be ... so, its as if it never was there nor was supposed to be, but the drawing and my trans seem to disagree. sigh, anyone got any insight? also, is it doing any damage to drive with the trans not engaging no 1 shift fork shaft?
Last edited by llcoolpass; 02-08-10 at 12:37 AM.
02-08-10, 07:58 PM
#19
Lexus Champion
Thread Starter
mine:
1never does shift lever pops out of gear
2no noise
3just a kind of rubber band feeling as if not enough force [as if the cable was stretched or damaged] getting to the gear when shifting near the normal firm limit of lever engagement going into second fourth and reverse gears.
I do not believe my thing is missing that part, it's just not conceivable to me. I do not have an explanation why it's in the FSM. I did some digging and found the FSM for the earlier toyota tranny the basis basically for the E-53. The s-51, the inferior predecessor, "shift and select lever shaft assembly" doesn't have the part ("select inner lever") - according to the factory repair page on it. To dispel your next though, no, I do have an E-53, both the look matches the E-53 and not the S-51 of my stuff, and the gearing is a dead match. This means only one thing is the possibility: The FSM is wrong, out of date, or they made a slightly revision to the trans that is undocumented anywhere ordinary people have access -- the internet. Or my thing was made incorrectly. Basically, if anyone could check a E-53 to corroborate that would be great. I used RTV as a gasket - no way im going to find that gasket for the assembly-to-trans mating surface. RTV is fine
Moving on, my understand of transmissions sometimes suffers, I'm only human. But looking at the diagram [assuming its correct about everything else], there are three closely positioned "shift heads" seen through the hole looking like one huge one. so, I can't understand where this missing part would go or what it would do as my gears actually work .....
The conclusion I'm left with making reasonable assumptions and using some data is that i must have a mis aligned shaft possibly from the e-clip being missing from the output shaft, or, more likely, some kind of cable or "part that attaches" [like a bushing or lever or metal part] problem.
I changed the fluid. Reassembled, drove tonight for a while. It was fine, just the same issue. I still try to avoid second and fourth gears when I can to be safe, but i have no observations that using them is causing any problems.
Since the cables cost 280 from lexus dealer, i'm at a loss for a cheap solution other than attempt to adj the tension of the ''high'' cable.
PS Yes, reverse gear is synchronized on this E-53 trans using a mechanism of some sort-- I think it uses 5th gear to adj the gear speed [basically using the 5th gear as a way of syncronizing by way of how slow the shafts turn in that gear and the mass of that gear], and this also is designed to make it quiter in that gear. Supposedly.
1never does shift lever pops out of gear
2no noise
3just a kind of rubber band feeling as if not enough force [as if the cable was stretched or damaged] getting to the gear when shifting near the normal firm limit of lever engagement going into second fourth and reverse gears.
I do not believe my thing is missing that part, it's just not conceivable to me. I do not have an explanation why it's in the FSM. I did some digging and found the FSM for the earlier toyota tranny the basis basically for the E-53. The s-51, the inferior predecessor, "shift and select lever shaft assembly" doesn't have the part ("select inner lever") - according to the factory repair page on it. To dispel your next though, no, I do have an E-53, both the look matches the E-53 and not the S-51 of my stuff, and the gearing is a dead match. This means only one thing is the possibility: The FSM is wrong, out of date, or they made a slightly revision to the trans that is undocumented anywhere ordinary people have access -- the internet. Or my thing was made incorrectly. Basically, if anyone could check a E-53 to corroborate that would be great. I used RTV as a gasket - no way im going to find that gasket for the assembly-to-trans mating surface. RTV is fine
Moving on, my understand of transmissions sometimes suffers, I'm only human. But looking at the diagram [assuming its correct about everything else], there are three closely positioned "shift heads" seen through the hole looking like one huge one. so, I can't understand where this missing part would go or what it would do as my gears actually work .....
The conclusion I'm left with making reasonable assumptions and using some data is that i must have a mis aligned shaft possibly from the e-clip being missing from the output shaft, or, more likely, some kind of cable or "part that attaches" [like a bushing or lever or metal part] problem.
I changed the fluid. Reassembled, drove tonight for a while. It was fine, just the same issue. I still try to avoid second and fourth gears when I can to be safe, but i have no observations that using them is causing any problems.
Since the cables cost 280 from lexus dealer, i'm at a loss for a cheap solution other than attempt to adj the tension of the ''high'' cable.
PS Yes, reverse gear is synchronized on this E-53 trans using a mechanism of some sort-- I think it uses 5th gear to adj the gear speed [basically using the 5th gear as a way of syncronizing by way of how slow the shafts turn in that gear and the mass of that gear], and this also is designed to make it quiter in that gear. Supposedly.
Last edited by llcoolpass; 02-08-10 at 08:02 PM.
02-09-10, 06:30 PM
#20
Lexus Champion
Thread Starter
ok its not the shift lever assembly. maybe the 'high' cable or something inside the trans ? i doubt its the cable because when you actuate the cable in the 135 direction which is the pull direction its fine. push direction, well, i guess the way its designed it works in the other direction OK? but in my car now, you go in that direction the gear is engaged but then you go a little extra. watching thevid, you can see that select rod , once in gear is moving during the 'stretch' zone. so, putting it all together, it seems like greater than 50% chance its something in the trans, but what, i dont know. if something were bent, you would expect a longer travel NOT a shorter travel with: a rubbery feel in reponse to greater force being applied. and 2 4 R gears have diffent shift forks, dont they? so how could 2nd have afffected 4 and R ? and if it's 2nd gear synchronizer again it would be fine in 4 and R. someone sugested it was the actual shaft moving around ... in that case, wouldn't it have the current characteristic in 2 4 and R in 1 3 and 5 as well? i dont get it. but I have very clear symptoms as I just explained regarding which gears, the missing part [or not missing], and whether its on the pull or the push stroke of the cable referred to as High [as opposed to Low].
oh and another thing. if its the cable, im just thinking now, and it had a problem applying force when asked to push, it would be more retiscent to go from 1 to neutral, 3 to neutral and 5 to neutral . so im starting to think its not cable its trans.
oh and another thing. if its the cable, im just thinking now, and it had a problem applying force when asked to push, it would be more retiscent to go from 1 to neutral, 3 to neutral and 5 to neutral . so im starting to think its not cable its trans.
02-10-10, 05:53 PM
#21
Lexus Champion
Thread Starter
THIS IS A COPY-AND-PASTE from TOYOTANATION.COM
there is no hole drilled, that I can see, that would allow a pin to be put through that into the shaft -- so I determined the FSM is erroneous or my car is special. :ugh3:
second thing you said, well gee, no need to be like that man.
but im glad you like my hypothesis that the cable is just frayed somewhere or something.
third thing, yes i tried that, and made a video and put that video in this thread. :facepalm: but yes, I feel nothing weird. i also made a vid showing the lever moving at the transmission while i shifted inside the cabin and did the 'strech' thing. once i thought about this too some more i began to see the cable could in theory be the explanation for what you see. i also did googling and youtubing and it seems also to corroborate this theory.
no, i dont have a lot of room nor desire to do the other thing with vice grips- no need anyway.
here's the full picture gallery showing the assembly in many different angles - didn't share this originally because I didn't see a use, but you specifically asked for it. have at it:
http://s69.photobucket.com/albums/i7...%20feb%202010/
major props to the first person to reply here, chronoti -- he may be right after all!
but thanks to all here and the people who posted here! i will update soon what happens when I change the cable(s).
yes, it shows the part as NOT there but is does nothing to indicate if it WAS there to begin with. . .
As for the cable. All cables PULL better than they PUSH! Grab a bone yard cable and try it. You have nothing to loose (unless they charge $279). They don't hold suspension bridges up by pushing from the ground or log forrests by pushing the trees over with cables. . . I'd say you're on to something there.
Did you ever disconnect the cables and operate the trans inpust shafts to see if the stretchy rubberier feeling is the trans? CAN you somehow block or vise grip soemthing into place to lock the cables at the transmission end and isolate the bad feeling to the cable/shifter?
As for the cable. All cables PULL better than they PUSH! Grab a bone yard cable and try it. You have nothing to loose (unless they charge $279). They don't hold suspension bridges up by pushing from the ground or log forrests by pushing the trees over with cables. . . I'd say you're on to something there.
Did you ever disconnect the cables and operate the trans inpust shafts to see if the stretchy rubberier feeling is the trans? CAN you somehow block or vise grip soemthing into place to lock the cables at the transmission end and isolate the bad feeling to the cable/shifter?
second thing you said, well gee, no need to be like that man.
but im glad you like my hypothesis that the cable is just frayed somewhere or something.third thing, yes i tried that, and made a video and put that video in this thread. :facepalm: but yes, I feel nothing weird. i also made a vid showing the lever moving at the transmission while i shifted inside the cabin and did the 'strech' thing. once i thought about this too some more i began to see the cable could in theory be the explanation for what you see. i also did googling and youtubing and it seems also to corroborate this theory.
no, i dont have a lot of room nor desire to do the other thing with vice grips- no need anyway.
here's the full picture gallery showing the assembly in many different angles - didn't share this originally because I didn't see a use, but you specifically asked for it. have at it:
http://s69.photobucket.com/albums/i7...%20feb%202010/
major props to the first person to reply here, chronoti -- he may be right after all!
but thanks to all here and the people who posted here! i will update soon what happens when I change the cable(s).
02-10-10, 09:37 PM
#23
Lexus Champion
Thread Starter
me too! I'm actuallyonline right now on toyo diy website seeing the parts diagrams! lol we're both thinking the same t hign. E-53 and S-54 ... will they be similar enough. we shall see. its not the cable 'design' nor the length'that much' that matters..just the terminals.
02-10-10, 09:50 PM
#24
Lexus Champion
Thread Starter
DAMN IT DAMN IT DAMN IT
t o y o d i y . c o m
--------------------------------
6 December, 2009
The diagrams are no longer available on this site. For reasons that are beyond our comprehension, Toyota Motor Sales Inc. kept harrassing our ISP about them. It seems that they are really interested in quick profits from new car sales, so it is in their best interest that old cars fall apart asap.
The progress of course cannot be stopped, and the diagrams are available on numerous other websites around the world, so we feel this change will not have any significant negative impact on Toyota DIY-ers.
At *******, we strongly believe in our right to repair our own vehicles. You can help by raising awareness of the issue. Details can be found at www.righttorepair.org.
--------------------------------------
what the F -- CL is censoring their name , your copyright system worked in 1920, but it's 2010. get with the program old people.
t o y o d i y . c o m
--------------------------------
6 December, 2009
The diagrams are no longer available on this site. For reasons that are beyond our comprehension, Toyota Motor Sales Inc. kept harrassing our ISP about them. It seems that they are really interested in quick profits from new car sales, so it is in their best interest that old cars fall apart asap.
The progress of course cannot be stopped, and the diagrams are available on numerous other websites around the world, so we feel this change will not have any significant negative impact on Toyota DIY-ers.
At *******, we strongly believe in our right to repair our own vehicles. You can help by raising awareness of the issue. Details can be found at www.righttorepair.org.
--------------------------------------
what the F -- CL is censoring their name , your copyright system worked in 1920, but it's 2010. get with the program old people.
02-11-10, 03:59 PM
#25
Lexus Champion
Thread Starter
I ordered it but I'm worried the part is right or not. I showed him on the computer screen, and he clicked the part, but the second half of the number doesnt match the TOYO DIY .COM listing perfectly.
33821 CABLE TRANSMISSION CONTROL SHIFT (FOR FLOOR SHIFT)
33821‑33020 VCV10..MTM 1 $280.92
list was a little bit cheaper, but that's not the biggest difference. this is the part no that I have ordered
"|33821-33022 CABLE, TRA SPORD| LIST $255.36|"
can anyone confirm this?
this is the cable that actually engaged the gears [NOT the L-marked, as in LOW, cable that just moves the thing when going left-right with the shift lever] ... right?
33821 CABLE TRANSMISSION CONTROL SHIFT (FOR FLOOR SHIFT)
33821‑33020 VCV10..MTM 1 $280.92
list was a little bit cheaper, but that's not the biggest difference. this is the part no that I have ordered
"|33821-33022 CABLE, TRA SPORD| LIST $255.36|"
can anyone confirm this?
this is the cable that actually engaged the gears [NOT the L-marked, as in LOW, cable that just moves the thing when going left-right with the shift lever] ... right?
02-12-10, 12:23 PM
#26
Lexus Champion
Thread Starter
1TEXT
2PICS
I got the shift cable that is important and seems to have become damaged, from the c.h.e.r.r.y\\\\\\////// h~i~L~L lexus dealership for much cheaper than not just their normal price but list price. I am greatful for that. Its the cable that pulls to engage 1 3 and 5, and it pushes to engage 2 4 and R. Cables being asked to push? Exactly, the cable is being messesd up and is sloppy from the hard push it experienced during the hard shift into second and its time on earth 1993 to 2010. Not bad. Many cars' shift cable goes bad much sooner. Thought, I am impressed that i have managed to break [not through any fault of my own] the head gasket, radiator, shift cable, engine, and more on three cars I've had. I am so lucky- not! well, in this regard.
I have also ordered a well-liked, by the community of manual trans people with trans that behave similarly to mine, gear oil of the name Red line Mt-90. it is GL-4 75w-90. It is formulated and many have confirmed that it allows the synchros in FWD , non -LSD , trans to work great. other trans need GL-5 so be aware. Mine specifies either or - and since I'm not towing anything and I would prefer better synchro engagement, gl-4 it is. Also, my trans doesn't have LSD. Also, it is synthetic so it is very good quality. My trans holds way more gear oil than normal fwd cars. Perhaps due to over engineering or the fact it has a hydraulic pump or that it's design is for heavy duty apps? So i have ordered 5 qts [spec is 4.4]. That's expensive. 50 dollars cheapest place, amazon.com, free shipping, and it already shipped - i lucked out, they can take up to week. normally 9 dollars shipping, and usually 60 dollars for the 5 of oil.
Last, a shift **** made my TRD [Toyota Racing Development] to replace my worn shift ****. Interestingly, it appears to be a very close match for the 92/93 lexus es 300, even though these TRD were I believe only made in the late 90s to 2000s [or the present]. The size and shape is a dead match it would seem. I wonder why? The leather, I hope it's good. the TRD part on it, well , that is ok, I wish it would sya lexus or es 300, but it certainly doesn't detract in my opinion. I can just say I have the sport es 300 or ED 300 TRD edition which shold equate to 200 hp increase. ha price is great at 42 shipped, compared to dealer my goodness!
The shift **** and gear oil should make the shifts better putting less strain on the cable, and the cable working and the gear oil working should be mean less stress on the surface of the shift ****.
The cable comes tomorrow, the oil I don't know maybe 3 days, and the **** I don't know maybe 4 days.
Hopefully, it solves the problem. Enjoy some pics.
2PICS
I got the shift cable that is important and seems to have become damaged, from the c.h.e.r.r.y\\\\\\////// h~i~L~L lexus dealership for much cheaper than not just their normal price but list price. I am greatful for that. Its the cable that pulls to engage 1 3 and 5, and it pushes to engage 2 4 and R. Cables being asked to push? Exactly, the cable is being messesd up and is sloppy from the hard push it experienced during the hard shift into second and its time on earth 1993 to 2010. Not bad. Many cars' shift cable goes bad much sooner. Thought, I am impressed that i have managed to break [not through any fault of my own] the head gasket, radiator, shift cable, engine, and more on three cars I've had. I am so lucky- not! well, in this regard.
I have also ordered a well-liked, by the community of manual trans people with trans that behave similarly to mine, gear oil of the name Red line Mt-90. it is GL-4 75w-90. It is formulated and many have confirmed that it allows the synchros in FWD , non -LSD , trans to work great. other trans need GL-5 so be aware. Mine specifies either or - and since I'm not towing anything and I would prefer better synchro engagement, gl-4 it is. Also, my trans doesn't have LSD. Also, it is synthetic so it is very good quality. My trans holds way more gear oil than normal fwd cars. Perhaps due to over engineering or the fact it has a hydraulic pump or that it's design is for heavy duty apps? So i have ordered 5 qts [spec is 4.4]. That's expensive. 50 dollars cheapest place, amazon.com, free shipping, and it already shipped - i lucked out, they can take up to week. normally 9 dollars shipping, and usually 60 dollars for the 5 of oil.
Last, a shift **** made my TRD [Toyota Racing Development] to replace my worn shift ****. Interestingly, it appears to be a very close match for the 92/93 lexus es 300, even though these TRD were I believe only made in the late 90s to 2000s [or the present]. The size and shape is a dead match it would seem. I wonder why? The leather, I hope it's good. the TRD part on it, well , that is ok, I wish it would sya lexus or es 300, but it certainly doesn't detract in my opinion. I can just say I have the sport es 300 or ED 300 TRD edition which shold equate to 200 hp increase. ha price is great at 42 shipped, compared to dealer my goodness!
The shift **** and gear oil should make the shifts better putting less strain on the cable, and the cable working and the gear oil working should be mean less stress on the surface of the shift ****.
The cable comes tomorrow, the oil I don't know maybe 3 days, and the **** I don't know maybe 4 days.
Hopefully, it solves the problem. Enjoy some pics.
02-14-10, 12:15 AM
#27
Lexus Champion
Thread Starter
how does one remove the cable is what i was going to ask before i decide to simply cut the part off.
now here's the big question, how do you install the cable? any advice given so very promptly would be vastly appreciated. [es 300 FSM is absent any help , so is my brain].george jet would you be so kind to show me the alldata / mitchell info?? anyone got advice? this is a real b1%%h! can't figure out if i shuld go from the cabin or the engine bay. its also very hard for somereason to get it to go in. its like something is restricting movement. anyway please give me something cause im outta ideas [besides removing the engne to do it ... which... um....]
PS my "high cable" came with insulation. the low one that im not replacing has it too. also, the damn thing came with the wrong firewall grommet. its huge compared to the one on my lex. perhaps it was the grommet for i dont know 99 solara or camry. if that's true, which we can talk about later, then perhaps the cable is excatly the same for that model. oh yeah and maybe its for the camry same year, and maybe that makes it easier to install on carmy? i dont know.
now here's the big question, how do you install the cable? any advice given so very promptly would be vastly appreciated. [es 300 FSM is absent any help , so is my brain].george jet would you be so kind to show me the alldata / mitchell info?? anyone got advice? this is a real b1%%h! can't figure out if i shuld go from the cabin or the engine bay. its also very hard for somereason to get it to go in. its like something is restricting movement. anyway please give me something cause im outta ideas [besides removing the engne to do it ... which... um....]
PS my "high cable" came with insulation. the low one that im not replacing has it too. also, the damn thing came with the wrong firewall grommet. its huge compared to the one on my lex. perhaps it was the grommet for i dont know 99 solara or camry. if that's true, which we can talk about later, then perhaps the cable is excatly the same for that model. oh yeah and maybe its for the camry same year, and maybe that makes it easier to install on carmy? i dont know.
02-14-10, 01:02 PM
#28
Lexus Champion
Thread Starter
why wont anyone help me? all im asking is what did you remove to make it easier, if anything, and did you install the cable from the cabin or from the engine compartment side? anything more detailed than that would be great but not as necessary! come on, someone just answer these two basic questions who has done it successfully.
02-15-10, 06:02 AM
#29
Lexus Champion
Thread Starter
camry 4cyl manual trans repair info is more helpful.
it shows this grommet, which i'm calling inner grommet. it is on passenger[ie cabin] side of the firewall [as opposed to the engine side]. it came with my new cable.
This image shows the grommet on the new cable [dont you love buying lexus parts with toyota written all over them; really ruins the mind-manipulation of the advertising]:
presumably i have to remove the old metal bracket [ie retainer] and then the grommet and that may include once I get access the Low cable. Installing this replacement High cable is becoming quite a bear. I have consulted two FSMS and 1 haynes manual, none has step by step on what is needed to remove and replace the shift cable.I even looked under the automatic transmission sections! It appears I just have to figure this out myself, and to add insult, it looks like much of the center console has to come out, possibly the dash. If I have to remove the dash, I believe the steering wheel may have to be removed. This all for a stupid cable that could easily have been designed to be removed easier. seriously folks, this is retaw-did. especially outside inthe cold on asphault exposed to the elements. and it just has to snow again. oh boy add in some freezing rain. one of my fingers looks like it's been through in a food blender.
see how the floor pan curves there? it must be right up where one loses sight that the grommet is located because the exterior [engine bay] has the curve then a few inches up is the hole. but the white box [hvac parts] is in the way. I'm looking for the easiest way to remove those guts to gain access, right now.
another view, less deep into the space under the white box:
it shows this grommet, which i'm calling inner grommet. it is on passenger[ie cabin] side of the firewall [as opposed to the engine side]. it came with my new cable.
This image shows the grommet on the new cable [dont you love buying lexus parts with toyota written all over them; really ruins the mind-manipulation of the advertising]:
presumably i have to remove the old metal bracket [ie retainer] and then the grommet and that may include once I get access the Low cable. Installing this replacement High cable is becoming quite a bear. I have consulted two FSMS and 1 haynes manual, none has step by step on what is needed to remove and replace the shift cable.I even looked under the automatic transmission sections! It appears I just have to figure this out myself, and to add insult, it looks like much of the center console has to come out, possibly the dash. If I have to remove the dash, I believe the steering wheel may have to be removed. This all for a stupid cable that could easily have been designed to be removed easier. seriously folks, this is retaw-did. especially outside inthe cold on asphault exposed to the elements. and it just has to snow again. oh boy add in some freezing rain. one of my fingers looks like it's been through in a food blender.
see how the floor pan curves there? it must be right up where one loses sight that the grommet is located because the exterior [engine bay] has the curve then a few inches up is the hole. but the white box [hvac parts] is in the way. I'm looking for the easiest way to remove those guts to gain access, right now.
another view, less deep into the space under the white box:
Last edited by llcoolpass; 02-15-10 at 07:19 AM.
