lexo0n22s

ok so i did more reading n looked through the 1997 es300 fsm wiring diagram n found out the the ignition system is diferent wich would explain the misfire when i plug in the 96 ecu the 96 ecu has a diff ignition module than the 94 . so i guess back to da junk yard to look for a 94 camry or lexus but i will get u the part number tomorrow mornin so u can give it a shot. i just wished i could get the codes from the 94 ecu

lexo0n22s

Back with some good news!! i hitt the junkyard today n came across a 94 v6 camry with the ecu still in it within 10 minutes it was in my hands n on my way home. got home n dropped in the car started up fine, i hooked up my scanner n the system passed with no failure so i took it for a test drive runnin the live data on my scanner n the car ran with no problems, cept the idle was a bit high (1100 in park n about 950 in drive) so i guess thats my next mission lol... thanx for all ur help ASG14 u r truly an asset to this site, keep up the good work!!

Ps. if anyone is interested in a 96 es300 ecu let me kno, ill let it go for the $45.00 i paid for it. here is the part number 89661-0W010

ASG14

iTrader: (1)

^ $45 isn't a bad price, lol. Make a thread in the For Sale section for it.

For the idle, is that 1100 fully warmed up? Was it like that before you changed the ECU? There is a small screw on the throttle body to adjust the RPM's. I'll have to take a picture of it for you so you know what to adjust.

The ONLY thing that is different with the '94 Camry ECU is something with the tranny. IF for any reason you happen to throw a CEL for a tranny issue, thats why. But I doubt that will happen. Really Glad all is working!

lexo0n22s

Yea i think i am gonna post it up for sale. n yes those r the rpm's fully warmed up n from wat i been readin for the idle is to clean the aic valve. i think i kno wat screw u might be typing about but if u get a pic post it up if u can. for now im gonna clean the aic valve to see if that helps. n i havent gotten any CEL for the trans, so far for so good (crossin fingers) wat i do need to change also r my motor mounts, i think ill do some readin to see if i can get away with some sort of inserts or upgraded mounts. i really dont wanna pay for stock or new ones.

ASG14

iTrader: (1)

IF your going performance in the future (Supercharged/Turbo) I can get the front and rear mounts made custon with Poly. If not, just go stock replacement. The rear one they do make inserts for, front one is Hydrolic, so there isn't. The dogbone (pass strut tower) there are poly inserts for it, BUT there is no need for that one unless you have engine work. The tranny one (small strut next to front mount), I actually MAKE a custom mount for that which reduces wheel hope. Thats only needed if you drive your car hard. If you never pusht he car, it's not needed.

lexo0n22s

i dont want to go high performance im gonna keep this one stock. Actually i think the dogbone lookin one is the one i need bcuz i can see its missin all the rubber inside it. I found that 1 on rockauto.com for $17 with shipping. so im gonna try dat one and see if it still makes the thump sound.

ASG14

iTrader: (1)

IF your engine actually makes a "thump" when you hit the accelerator, it;s likely the front mount, the one under the oil filter.

FixerUpper

Thanks for this helpful post. I will show it to the mechanic as he is looking for front passenger p/w problem. None of the mechanics I've talked over the past couple days seems to have a clue about the wiring setup or where to begin.