Price for 3rd Gen HID Headlight Assembly
04-04-10, 07:54 AM
#16
Instructor
Thread Starter
I'm looking at pictures of the rear of the OEM Lexus HID assemblies and I don't see an obvious method for adjusting the lights such as a screw like on the non-HID housings. If you look at the pictures I posted earlier in the thread perhaps someone can point out the method for adjusting the lights.
04-05-10, 08:25 PM
#18
Instructor
Thread Starter
I got the drivers side housing in today. There is a method to manually adjust, and it's better than the method used on the halogen housings. I played around with it which I shouldn't have because it was probably properly leveled as it was. It seems to be missing three parts however; the cap for the back of the DRL/High beams, the low beams and a plate that should be underneath (what is that plate?). I'm not sure if those parts are necessary for proper functioning (I don't think they are) but perhaps someone knows for sure,
04-05-10, 09:23 PM
#19
^^
Throwing this out there, but it looks to me, like that is the location for the OEM ballast. It should bold up right there, and the sizing looks proportionate to that of any generic ballasts out there.
My friend has the similar thing in his old Audi Headlights, where the ballasts would 'clip' into the back of the headlight and wiring would tuck in the hole you see.
Throwing this out there, but it looks to me, like that is the location for the OEM ballast. It should bold up right there, and the sizing looks proportionate to that of any generic ballasts out there.
My friend has the similar thing in his old Audi Headlights, where the ballasts would 'clip' into the back of the headlight and wiring would tuck in the hole you see.
04-06-10, 05:43 AM
#20
Instructor
Thread Starter
^^
Throwing this out there, but it looks to me, like that is the location for the OEM ballast. It should bold up right there, and the sizing looks proportionate to that of any generic ballasts out there.
My friend has the similar thing in his old Audi Headlights, where the ballasts would 'clip' into the back of the headlight and wiring would tuck in the hole you see.
Throwing this out there, but it looks to me, like that is the location for the OEM ballast. It should bold up right there, and the sizing looks proportionate to that of any generic ballasts out there.
My friend has the similar thing in his old Audi Headlights, where the ballasts would 'clip' into the back of the headlight and wiring would tuck in the hole you see.
And in regards to those bulb caps, are they necessary for proper performance of the HID's? I've seen some sold missing the HID bulb cap, some missing both and some with both attached.
04-06-10, 10:02 AM
#21
^^ First of all. You shouldn't need that relay harness to begin with. The member that was keen on telling you to get it is in the wrong.
Think about it, if an HID kit was so strenuous on the OEM wiring it would have melted it the day you hooked it up. Trust me on this one, get rid of it, its one more thing to clutter up the engine bay and lead to wiring nightmares. I have had a lengthy discussion on the subject, and don't remember the figures relating to the amount of voltage that goes thru the kit, but it is a useless add-on and this is coming from someone that has done countless one-off retro-fits. So i took his advice a little more seriously than someone on the internet trying to scare other members...
Anyways, the wiring will be fine to use. I would get any plain HID kit, simply match it up to the bulb type for the outer light [the HID one]. The inner-light, the DRL, you are on your own, i don't know what kind of bulb that is... I am assuming it is the same as the halogen equivalent, but that is the problem area. The oem halogen connector is made for the 9006 ? bulb, and if this HID housing required a 9007 bulb [as an example] you would have to modify the connector to fit the new light.
The caps, i personally wouldn't want to run without one. Since this headlight it seems is designed in such a way to keep it virtually water-tight, so i think those would play a key role. Then again a couple of strips of duct tape to cover up the holes will suffice and do the same job.
Think about it, if an HID kit was so strenuous on the OEM wiring it would have melted it the day you hooked it up. Trust me on this one, get rid of it, its one more thing to clutter up the engine bay and lead to wiring nightmares. I have had a lengthy discussion on the subject, and don't remember the figures relating to the amount of voltage that goes thru the kit, but it is a useless add-on and this is coming from someone that has done countless one-off retro-fits. So i took his advice a little more seriously than someone on the internet trying to scare other members...
Anyways, the wiring will be fine to use. I would get any plain HID kit, simply match it up to the bulb type for the outer light [the HID one]. The inner-light, the DRL, you are on your own, i don't know what kind of bulb that is... I am assuming it is the same as the halogen equivalent, but that is the problem area. The oem halogen connector is made for the 9006 ? bulb, and if this HID housing required a 9007 bulb [as an example] you would have to modify the connector to fit the new light.
The caps, i personally wouldn't want to run without one. Since this headlight it seems is designed in such a way to keep it virtually water-tight, so i think those would play a key role. Then again a couple of strips of duct tape to cover up the holes will suffice and do the same job.
04-06-10, 11:37 AM
#22
Instructor
Thread Starter
^^ First of all. You shouldn't need that relay harness to begin with. The member that was keen on telling you to get it is in the wrong.
Think about it, if an HID kit was so strenuous on the OEM wiring it would have melted it the day you hooked it up. Trust me on this one, get rid of it, its one more thing to clutter up the engine bay and lead to wiring nightmares. I have had a lengthy discussion on the subject, and don't remember the figures relating to the amount of voltage that goes thru the kit, but it is a useless add-on and this is coming from someone that has done countless one-off retro-fits. So i took his advice a little more seriously than someone on the internet trying to scare other members...
Anyways, the wiring will be fine to use. I would get any plain HID kit, simply match it up to the bulb type for the outer light [the HID one]. The inner-light, the DRL, you are on your own, i don't know what kind of bulb that is... I am assuming it is the same as the halogen equivalent, but that is the problem area. The oem halogen connector is made for the 9006 ? bulb, and if this HID housing required a 9007 bulb [as an example] you would have to modify the connector to fit the new light.
The caps, i personally wouldn't want to run without one. Since this headlight it seems is designed in such a way to keep it virtually water-tight, so i think those would play a key role. Then again a couple of strips of duct tape to cover up the holes will suffice and do the same job.
Think about it, if an HID kit was so strenuous on the OEM wiring it would have melted it the day you hooked it up. Trust me on this one, get rid of it, its one more thing to clutter up the engine bay and lead to wiring nightmares. I have had a lengthy discussion on the subject, and don't remember the figures relating to the amount of voltage that goes thru the kit, but it is a useless add-on and this is coming from someone that has done countless one-off retro-fits. So i took his advice a little more seriously than someone on the internet trying to scare other members...
Anyways, the wiring will be fine to use. I would get any plain HID kit, simply match it up to the bulb type for the outer light [the HID one]. The inner-light, the DRL, you are on your own, i don't know what kind of bulb that is... I am assuming it is the same as the halogen equivalent, but that is the problem area. The oem halogen connector is made for the 9006 ? bulb, and if this HID housing required a 9007 bulb [as an example] you would have to modify the connector to fit the new light.
The caps, i personally wouldn't want to run without one. Since this headlight it seems is designed in such a way to keep it virtually water-tight, so i think those would play a key role. Then again a couple of strips of duct tape to cover up the holes will suffice and do the same job.
- I realized that since HID's were an option on my 2001 ES, that it's likely the current wiring in there should be able to handle HID's even if the car didn't come with that option. I hate having the relay harness running across the headliner, it looks like **** and is impossible to firmly secure. Once I get all the parts together for this minor conversion I think I'm going to do away with it.
- The HID housing seems to use the same high beam/DRL bulb as the halogen housings, it's a 9006 I think. I tried fitting it in there and it fit the same as on the halogen housing.
- I spoke with the person whom I bought the housing from and he's gonna send me the two back bulb covers from another HID housing he has, as well as the plate that covers up the spot for the ballast. I'm gonna see if my current ballasts will fit in that spot, I'd be very happy if they do because it would cut down even further on the clutter.
I guess now it's just a matter of waiting for a nice passenger side housing to pop up at a decent price. Thank you for the replies and I'll keep it updated as I go along, as I'm hoping to have this completed just as summer roles in (mid May).
04-06-10, 02:22 PM
#24
Instructor
Thread Starter
I came across a headlight with broken tabs that I think perhaps I could get for a really good deal. But I have no idea how I'd mount the headlight or repair the tabs. Any input?
04-06-10, 03:12 PM
#26
Instructor
Thread Starter
silicone, zipties, metal 'tabs'... You choose:
http://www.sl-i.net/FORUM/viewtopic....3846&view=next
Gotta get a little creative.
http://www.sl-i.net/FORUM/viewtopic....3846&view=next
Gotta get a little creative.
I thought about wire ties and such but then it wouldn't be very secure. I even considered breaking the tabs off my halogen housing and soldering those on, but I don't like that idea.
Opinion question: What's the most you'd pay for a housing in that condition, with everything fine other than all tabs broken?
04-06-10, 06:47 PM
#27
^ Subjective; but no more than 40-50$ [and that's being generous] since well the mounting points are kinda key... You can jerry-rig something no problem though, just a little creativity 
I saw one Right side a few weeks ago on eBay in great shape for 100$ buy it now, to put it in perspective.
I saw one Right side a few weeks ago on eBay in great shape for 100$ buy it now, to put it in perspective.
04-09-10, 04:20 PM
#28
Instructor
Thread Starter
I'm pleased to say I found a passenger side assembly that's in good condition for a decent price. I also ordered the D2R adapter cables and bulbs for my current ballasts. Hopefully next weekend I will have some pictures up!
04-09-10, 06:43 PM
#29
Never play around with old/new bulbs. Who knows how consistently the left/right were used in terms of operating hours.
I dunno, its a personal thing but i always replace HID bulbs in pairs, especially if i didn't know the usage before acquiring them.
What are kits nowadays? A whole 50$ ? How much did those adapter cables run you - 20$ ?
GL
04-09-10, 07:18 PM
#30
Instructor
Thread Starter
Hmmm. I would have got an all-new kit to begin with man.
Never play around with old/new bulbs. Who knows how consistently the left/right were used in terms of operating hours.
I dunno, its a personal thing but i always replace HID bulbs in pairs, especially if i didn't know the usage before acquiring them.
What are kits nowadays? A whole 50$ ? How much did those adapter cables run you - 20$ ?
GL
Never play around with old/new bulbs. Who knows how consistently the left/right were used in terms of operating hours.
I dunno, its a personal thing but i always replace HID bulbs in pairs, especially if i didn't know the usage before acquiring them.
What are kits nowadays? A whole 50$ ? How much did those adapter cables run you - 20$ ?
GL
I'm using the same ballasts I put in early january this year. I ordered separately from the headlight assembly a pair of NEW D2R 5000k's as well as a pair of NEW cables (both from HIDExtra) that will allow me to plug into my current ballasts. I see no point in replacing the ballasts and other cables, sounds like a waste of money. I'm basically just adjusting my current setup to accommodate the new headlight assembly, and the only used parts involved are the headlight assemblies.
Last edited by GoodRevs; 04-09-10 at 07:21 PM.