Price for 3rd Gen HID Headlight Assembly
04-09-10, 09:12 PM
#32
Instructor
Thread Starter
BTW, regarding the relay harness, my concern is the initial rush that goes to the ballasts. I've read that it's that initial rush when igniting and warming up the bulbs that burns out the stock wiring, which is why a relay harness is appropriate. My theory though was that the wiring up to the point of where ballasts would hook up in halogen-installed 2000/2001 ES's was the same as the wiring in the HID installed ES's, in which case the wiring in a halogen installed ES could handle an HID retrofit. Does anyone know if this is indeed the case?
04-10-10, 08:28 AM
#33
I do not have a direct answer for you, but here goes what i know on the matter:
1. Relay harness = useless. Note that your RX350 doesn't have an OEM relay harness, its plugged in, in the same manner as you would here.
2. the only way the ballasts 'dont get a rush' is thru doing this:
- Set lights to 'off' or 'position 2' when cranking over the car
- only then switch to 'position 3' or 'auto' which is HID/DRL
This not only conserves the bulb, but it saves the ballast. You shouldn't be cranking the car over on the 'on' position of HID's. It kills the life of HID's & bulbs. Period.
Hence, not needing the relay harness. Furthermore the OEM wiring is made to handle the 12V of power. It is the ballasts that take that 12v and convert it into the ~14v that the HID's run off of.
Last, i will use an example. My HID kit came out of one car, that had it for over a year [using the same way as mentioned above when 'illuminating' them *only once the car is started*] I have been doing this for over a year on my car with that same kit.
Together this kit is going on close to its 3rd year, using that method. My wiring is 100% fine, no signs of wear.
Second, my Dad's RX330 would blow bulbs & ballasts a little too quick for my liking. So after switching a second set of HID bulbs and a pair of Ballasts in the 2 years he's had it, i told him to start the car with the 'off' position then switch over. I'll gladly report, not a slight flicker, or anything in close to 7 months now.
HID's don't require any heavy duty wiring, that is why i would be willing to bet the wiring is the same in the halogen vs. HID ES300's.
The Ballasts are the ones doing the 'heavy lifting'
ONce more concerning the relay's, these are needed in the event that a ricer gets his hands on an ES300.
The people that put in those stupid 'High HID headlight blue bulbs super bright' are the ones that are going to kill their OEM wiring whereas you will not.
Why??
Because those blue/purple/etc bulbs are being OVER rated... IE. the stock fogs in the ES300 are 35 [if memory serves me correctly] now put in a bulb that is running at 75W [ie. those super bright ones] this is what kills OEM wiring They operate at much more wattage than OEM to the point that it won't handle it one day.
Same applies to the 9006 bulbs & H7's if you were to be getting those eBay bulbs that try and replicate HIDs.
Best,
Mike
1. Relay harness = useless. Note that your RX350 doesn't have an OEM relay harness, its plugged in, in the same manner as you would here.
2. the only way the ballasts 'dont get a rush' is thru doing this:
- Set lights to 'off' or 'position 2' when cranking over the car
- only then switch to 'position 3' or 'auto' which is HID/DRL
This not only conserves the bulb, but it saves the ballast. You shouldn't be cranking the car over on the 'on' position of HID's. It kills the life of HID's & bulbs. Period.
Hence, not needing the relay harness. Furthermore the OEM wiring is made to handle the 12V of power. It is the ballasts that take that 12v and convert it into the ~14v that the HID's run off of.
Last, i will use an example. My HID kit came out of one car, that had it for over a year [using the same way as mentioned above when 'illuminating' them *only once the car is started*] I have been doing this for over a year on my car with that same kit.
Together this kit is going on close to its 3rd year, using that method. My wiring is 100% fine, no signs of wear.
Second, my Dad's RX330 would blow bulbs & ballasts a little too quick for my liking. So after switching a second set of HID bulbs and a pair of Ballasts in the 2 years he's had it, i told him to start the car with the 'off' position then switch over. I'll gladly report, not a slight flicker, or anything in close to 7 months now.
HID's don't require any heavy duty wiring, that is why i would be willing to bet the wiring is the same in the halogen vs. HID ES300's.
The Ballasts are the ones doing the 'heavy lifting'
ONce more concerning the relay's, these are needed in the event that a ricer gets his hands on an ES300.
The people that put in those stupid 'High HID headlight blue bulbs super bright' are the ones that are going to kill their OEM wiring whereas you will not.
Why??
Because those blue/purple/etc bulbs are being OVER rated... IE. the stock fogs in the ES300 are 35 [if memory serves me correctly] now put in a bulb that is running at 75W [ie. those super bright ones] this is what kills OEM wiring They operate at much more wattage than OEM to the point that it won't handle it one day.
Same applies to the 9006 bulbs & H7's if you were to be getting those eBay bulbs that try and replicate HIDs.
Best,
Mike
04-10-10, 08:48 AM
#34
Instructor
Thread Starter
Mike,
Thank for the post. I think the initial rush that people refer to doesn't have anything to do with the lights turning on just as the car is being started, but rather that anytime the lights are turned on there is an initial rush that floods the stock wiring. It's temporary and only lasts for a few seconds, but over time it can fry the wiring (apparently). Other than that HID's draw less power when running so they would be alright in the stock wiring.
It's true that our RX doesn't have a relay, but I attribute that to being that the wiring was designed for HID's. Which is why I'm thinking the wiring in my '01 ES is probably safe for HID's.
Really I don't think there is a definitive answer on this, it probably depends a lot on the car.
Thank for the post. I think the initial rush that people refer to doesn't have anything to do with the lights turning on just as the car is being started, but rather that anytime the lights are turned on there is an initial rush that floods the stock wiring. It's temporary and only lasts for a few seconds, but over time it can fry the wiring (apparently). Other than that HID's draw less power when running so they would be alright in the stock wiring.
It's true that our RX doesn't have a relay, but I attribute that to being that the wiring was designed for HID's. Which is why I'm thinking the wiring in my '01 ES is probably safe for HID's.
Really I don't think there is a definitive answer on this, it probably depends a lot on the car.
04-10-10, 12:32 PM
#35
^^ Take it FWIW.
I have had HID's for a while. There were members on here [when i first joined] that had HIDs for an extended period of time themselves, with zero reported issues, after reading up i decided to take the plunge myself, and couldn't be happier
I have had HID's for a while. There were members on here [when i first joined] that had HIDs for an extended period of time themselves, with zero reported issues, after reading up i decided to take the plunge myself, and couldn't be happier
04-16-10, 12:29 PM
#36
Instructor
Thread Starter
I got the bulb caps in. I don't think I'll be able to use the bulb cap that goes on the D2R bulb because,
a) It's missing the short cable on the inside of the cap that connects the caps plug to the bulb.
b) Even if I had that short cable on the inside, I don't have any sort of plug or adapter that would allow me to connect to the plug on the outside of the cap.
I think I'll be alright in regards to moisture though. My current non-HID housings don't have caps and there isn't a drop of moisture on the inside, and it's been raining every weekend up in the Northeast.
a) It's missing the short cable on the inside of the cap that connects the caps plug to the bulb.
b) Even if I had that short cable on the inside, I don't have any sort of plug or adapter that would allow me to connect to the plug on the outside of the cap.
I think I'll be alright in regards to moisture though. My current non-HID housings don't have caps and there isn't a drop of moisture on the inside, and it's been raining every weekend up in the Northeast.
04-19-10, 02:30 PM
#37
Instructor
Thread Starter
I 86'ed the relay harness yesterday, plugged right into the stock wiring by reversing the adapters that come with the bulbs. The lights booted right up with LESS flickering than with the relay harness. Needless to say I think I'll be staying with a direct plug in setup.
Next update will be with newly installed headlights, photo's to be included!
Next update will be with newly installed headlights, photo's to be included!
04-19-10, 07:58 PM
#38
on my 97, i had to hack away metal from the bottom side, and the top side.
you wont get the leveling motors to work, because youll need to sensors for the rear struts.
and a quick way of iding these headlights is the ballast is mounted on the underside of the headlights.
Charley
you wont get the leveling motors to work, because youll need to sensors for the rear struts.
and a quick way of iding these headlights is the ballast is mounted on the underside of the headlights.
Charley
03-15-12, 11:20 AM
#40
K. Bumping this in hopes someone sees it, this was PnP, right? I don't want autolevel, but don't want the inability to manually adjust the lights [accidented car, the light could've been stuck in a upwards or downwards position] i want them affixed permanently.
I may have stumbled across a set finally, the retrofit idea is nice, but that runs an easy 400$ to do it right with new [used] housings. Still might do this if these HID's fall thru... I love cragislist, now if only some people will ship to me.
I may have stumbled across a set finally, the retrofit idea is nice, but that runs an easy 400$ to do it right with new [used] housings. Still might do this if these HID's fall thru... I love cragislist, now if only some people will ship to me.
04-06-12, 01:17 PM
#41
Instructor
Thread Starter
K. Bumping this in hopes someone sees it, this was PnP, right? I don't want autolevel, but don't want the inability to manually adjust the lights [accidented car, the light could've been stuck in a upwards or downwards position] i want them affixed permanently.
I may have stumbled across a set finally, the retrofit idea is nice, but that runs an easy 400$ to do it right with new [used] housings. Still might do this if these HID's fall thru... I love cragislist, now if only some people will ship to me.
I may have stumbled across a set finally, the retrofit idea is nice, but that runs an easy 400$ to do it right with new [used] housings. Still might do this if these HID's fall thru... I love cragislist, now if only some people will ship to me.
04-06-12, 03:09 PM
#42
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how do you manually adjust the lights? i got these installed on my 97 but light output is a bit off-leveled. its a good thing you found a pair, im thinking of getting a new pair since mine are a bit worn down both inside and out.
04-07-12, 07:28 PM
#44
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