xsh0tya

I have a 99 ES300 and i was wondering what is the feel about undercoating? Some people say it is a waste of time, however this is going to be the first winter this car is going to see and we salt are roads more than our fries around here(In Canada, Ontario for the winter). So what do you think waste of time or necessity? Also what should I be looking for in a shop to do it(ie what brand of undercoat or type of chemical should I ask for)?
Look forward to all your wisdom and opinions,
Thanks

PFB

I had my car done 1 year ago by the best specialist here in Montreal Canada. The only thing he uses is a grease based spray on product. Some other places use a dripless oil based product, which is not as good, but still OK.

Whatever you end up using make sure that the product does not harden and crack, (such as a tar based product) as than moisture will get in and make things worse.

Will need to redo mine again in about 5 years.

01LEXPL

iTrader: (10)

I get it done every winter.

I don't use the traditional RustCheck or Krown, but something very similar. It's pretty much a thick grease that gets into evey nook & cranny. I don't see much product on the ground after, so i'd assume it's dripless unless applied super thick.

PFB

If you are ever in Montreal and have a few Hours to spare, I can recommend to you the best place where you can have your car done inside-out. Without any holes drilled anywhere. This guy is amazing and that's all he does. He is highly recommended by the APA (Automobile Protection Association. http://www.apa.ca/template.asp?DocID=11 ). Depending on the condition of the car at the time of the rustproofing application there is no need to redo for 3-5 years. He charges $200.00 for the complete car (inside out, and underneath) . Takes him about 4-6 Hrs. Including disassembling and re-assembling numerous panels, and mouldings inside and outside the car. He even removes the wheel, and trunk mouldings so that he can spray inside the panels. Looks scary but everything turns out perfect. And the major advantages is that he does not drill anywhere, yet the car gets fully sprayed and protected inside and out. No drips whatsoever.

Even though this sounds like a commercial, I don't have any connections with him at all. I don't even think that he remembers me. Its just that this guy is amazing.

NOTE to 01LEXPL: Although you mentioned that you never use "Krown". "Krown is the only other place recomended by the APA. They are less expensive, however they drill holes, and the process needs to be repeated every year.

Phil

xsh0tya

Thanks, thats exactly the kind of tips I was looking for. The hole drilling is kind of distrubing but I assume that they know what they are doing and it is a common pratice for the job, so I can live with it.

PFB

The reason that drilling holes is not a good idea is that unless done properly, and than sealed properly, rust could start around the areas where the holes were drilled, due to the fact that the paint gets scrapped off to the bare metal by the drill bit.

01LEXPL

iTrader: (10)

I rarely go to MTL. But thanks for the tip.

I'm not sure what product my mech. uses. He charges a whole 40$ to do it, and it takes about 30 mins. to do.

So i'm not gonna turn away the service. I've seen him do it, all the wheel wells, engine bay, underbody gets sprayed - like it would at Krown, except he doesn't drill holes. The stuff is like a Jelly that he uses.

PFB

Here is an important tip I learned from the guy that did my rustproofing. On the 3rd Gen ES, and probably the 2nd generation as well, The most likely place for rust to start is from inside the Trunk. More specifically from 2 large bolts located each behind the Left and Right Trunk panel coverings.

Once you remove both sides of the side trunk covers you will see what I mean. Rust starts there and gradually spreads to the outside of the wheel well, as well as to the area between the lower rear fenders where they meet the rear side claddings.

The idea is to spray lots of grease on those two bolts, their surroundings, and also inside the cavity that forms the back of the rear rear wheel wells.

As he predicted before even opening the trunk, mine had rust around subject bolts. Luckily, this rust did not yet progress to the outside. The grease spray he used should stop the progression in its track.

Two other areas of concern are:

a) Inside the rear bumper strip.

b) The underside exposed Fuel and break lines, as well as the area where the Vapour Canister and its associated valves are mounted.

Phil

01LEXPL

iTrader: (10)

^ that's why i repainted and repaired the rust on mine a year ago

RXGS

iTrader: (2)

^ I have rust forming in the very corner of the rear wheel below the gas tank it sucks im just trying to preent it from spreading and the area right below the lexus emblem on the trunk i hate rust