Rear Creaking Noise, Replaced Sway Bar Bushings, Still There
#16
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Have anyone ever replaced or greased the spring insulators or rear trailing arms cause there was a TSB for the rear suspension for creaking noise long time ago. The rear brace behind the rear seats can also cause noise so Lexus has a new torque setting for that. If the noise does not improve a revised rear spring insulators or trailing arm assembly may be the issue. I bought all new rubber on my front and rear struts from Toyota (Camry SE V6 since the suspension is a little firmer) and got Tokico strut inserts in my car. I'll be lowered in Tein springs from a Camry with new front strut mounting plates from a Camry SE V6. Little bit of noise is present on the rears but will replace the trailing arm and lateral arm bushings from SuperPro since I replaced the front sway bar and torque rod mount bushings from the same company. Hope this help many of you. Btw, I'm a Toyota technician at a local dealership sharing knowledge to all of you.
Last edited by Gerson; 12-02-12 at 08:24 AM.
#17
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^ glad to hear that.
However, I have officially 'given up' on this. I know about the tsb & such, but can't bear putting more money into such a menial issue.
Thus far i have, Monroe quickstruts, new endlinks all around, bushing all around, new control arms all around [rear; forward facing solid arms, rear lateral links were fubared after 140k], and it's still there *slightly*
I am beginning to dismiss this as the aftermarket strut mounts that monroe uses, or something as simple as harder bushings. Just my luck as it got really cold here now, so the bushings aren't exactly soft right now which can be a culprit to making noise.
*IF* i stumble upon a closeout on rockauto for the trailing arms, i will probably change those, since last time i checked they were 50$ish a side before shipping. Up until now, there isn't much more i can physically change in my suspension.
All the above mentioned work started as of last november and was 'finished' [the control arms all around] this past week.
So, i can't conclude what it may be, since i did not;
a. go with OEM spec parts
b. replacement intervals were spread out over the course of the year
So my margin for 'error' [even if the parts are good & made to oe-spec] is vast in diagnosing this properly.
-Mike
However, I have officially 'given up' on this. I know about the tsb & such, but can't bear putting more money into such a menial issue.
Thus far i have, Monroe quickstruts, new endlinks all around, bushing all around, new control arms all around [rear; forward facing solid arms, rear lateral links were fubared after 140k], and it's still there *slightly*
I am beginning to dismiss this as the aftermarket strut mounts that monroe uses, or something as simple as harder bushings. Just my luck as it got really cold here now, so the bushings aren't exactly soft right now which can be a culprit to making noise.
*IF* i stumble upon a closeout on rockauto for the trailing arms, i will probably change those, since last time i checked they were 50$ish a side before shipping. Up until now, there isn't much more i can physically change in my suspension.
All the above mentioned work started as of last november and was 'finished' [the control arms all around] this past week.
So, i can't conclude what it may be, since i did not;
a. go with OEM spec parts
b. replacement intervals were spread out over the course of the year
So my margin for 'error' [even if the parts are good & made to oe-spec] is vast in diagnosing this properly.
-Mike
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My car in the cold wheather give a "Creaking" sound from rear side, I've get the reason 100% sure, and I test the car after the repair, its grate without the sound, but still I think in the future the sound may come back, since still I repaire it from a while.
![](https://cdn.2carpros.com/automotive_pictures/61395_lexus_1.jpg)
The cause of the sound is the bush that connecting the strut rod with the wheel hub, its give sound due to motion of the rubber, you can remove the strut rod, and keep the bolt connected witht he wheel hup, move it up and down, you will hear the sound. what I did is just temporary solution, we've kept drops of oil inside the bush, the sound gone! I've tried the car on a test drive, its amazing without any noises.
The bush is what I've metion in the below picture:
![](https://cdn.2carpros.com/automotive_pictures/61395_lexus_1.jpg)
The cause of the sound is the bush that connecting the strut rod with the wheel hub, its give sound due to motion of the rubber, you can remove the strut rod, and keep the bolt connected witht he wheel hup, move it up and down, you will hear the sound. what I did is just temporary solution, we've kept drops of oil inside the bush, the sound gone! I've tried the car on a test drive, its amazing without any noises.
The bush is what I've metion in the below picture:
#19
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^^Nice find! I just started hearing a creaky sound in my rear suspension recently. I do have an aftermarket sway bar though, so it could be the urethane bar bushings in my case.
Perhaps this is a clearance issue with the fork around the bushing at the rear of the strut rod, rubbing the bushing. How a rubber bushing works is it is bonded to the housing, it twists with motion, so it could just be aging rubber making noise as it flexes too.
Sounds like lube is the best way to go, to replace the bushing you'd have to take the hub off the car, and press the bushing out/press new one in.
Perhaps this is a clearance issue with the fork around the bushing at the rear of the strut rod, rubbing the bushing. How a rubber bushing works is it is bonded to the housing, it twists with motion, so it could just be aging rubber making noise as it flexes too.
Sounds like lube is the best way to go, to replace the bushing you'd have to take the hub off the car, and press the bushing out/press new one in.
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^^Nice find! I just started hearing a creaky sound in my rear suspension recently. I do have an aftermarket sway bar though, so it could be the urethane bar bushings in my case.
Perhaps this is a clearance issue with the fork around the bushing at the rear of the strut rod, rubbing the bushing. How a rubber bushing works is it is bonded to the housing, it twists with motion, so it could just be aging rubber making noise as it flexes too.
Sounds like lube is the best way to go, to replace the bushing you'd have to take the hub off the car, and press the bushing out/press new one in.
Perhaps this is a clearance issue with the fork around the bushing at the rear of the strut rod, rubbing the bushing. How a rubber bushing works is it is bonded to the housing, it twists with motion, so it could just be aging rubber making noise as it flexes too.
Sounds like lube is the best way to go, to replace the bushing you'd have to take the hub off the car, and press the bushing out/press new one in.
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#22
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Which tool did you use? I figured it needed to be taken off but if you have the right tool and the access that makes sense. How about pressing in a new bushing does the tool do that? I know you didn't have to deal with that since you went urethane.
The problem with urethane is it works completely different than a bonded rubber bushing, and is prone to making noise. Urethane bushings need to be disassembled and lubed regularly. It is not surprising the creak returned in that case. Rubber bushings should not make noise or need any maintenance under normal circumstances. That is why all automakers use rubber bushings.
Would be interesting to see if a new rubber bushing would solve the problem for a long period of time.
The problem with urethane is it works completely different than a bonded rubber bushing, and is prone to making noise. Urethane bushings need to be disassembled and lubed regularly. It is not surprising the creak returned in that case. Rubber bushings should not make noise or need any maintenance under normal circumstances. That is why all automakers use rubber bushings.
Would be interesting to see if a new rubber bushing would solve the problem for a long period of time.
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Another good news, I found that the rare bush that I've mentioned above, available in the camry model 1997 - 2002 with cheap price.. by this you can replace it without any doubt that you're using after market or unreliable parts..
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Indeed the oil trick is for short term, as I know the rubber will get damage after some time due to the oil, first I use Brake oil mixed with power steering oil, then finally engine oil. While your keeping the oil, move the arm up and down or (left / right to put the oil)...
But still till today there is no sound, I've decide if the sound come back I will repalce the orginal bush from Toyota which comes under Camry MCV20 (similart to the es300 sepc.)
But still till today there is no sound, I've decide if the sound come back I will repalce the orginal bush from Toyota which comes under Camry MCV20 (similart to the es300 sepc.)
#26
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Which tool did you use? I figured it needed to be taken off but if you have the right tool and the access that makes sense. How about pressing in a new bushing does the tool do that? I know you didn't have to deal with that since you went urethane.
The problem with urethane is it works completely different than a bonded rubber bushing, and is prone to making noise. Urethane bushings need to be disassembled and lubed regularly. It is not surprising the creak returned in that case. Rubber bushings should not make noise or need any maintenance under normal circumstances. That is why all automakers use rubber bushings.
Would be interesting to see if a new rubber bushing would solve the problem for a long period of time.
The problem with urethane is it works completely different than a bonded rubber bushing, and is prone to making noise. Urethane bushings need to be disassembled and lubed regularly. It is not surprising the creak returned in that case. Rubber bushings should not make noise or need any maintenance under normal circumstances. That is why all automakers use rubber bushings.
Would be interesting to see if a new rubber bushing would solve the problem for a long period of time.
Yes, you're right about urethane bushings need to be lubed regularly (once a year, which is not that bad). Also, at least in the case of that specific poly bushing,removing it and put it back in is a straightforward job.
As for aftermarket good quality rubber bushings, I don't know where to find them.
#27
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I used a homemade tool, not a big deal, something similar to this http://www.ebay.com/itm/1999-04-Must...sories&vxp=mtr
Yeah there is a unicorn right there, maybe stock is best if they are not crazy expensive.
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Unfortunately, the only way to go stock is to buy the entire knuckle (rear axle carrier), which is out of question, at least for me. For some weird reason, the bushing alone is not supplied by Toyota as a replacement part. Go figure...
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#30
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Ahh I see what you guys were on about, that part is not serviced in the US. Could be sourced outside the US it seems.
I think I am going to just lube mine with the Energy Suspension Formula 5 that stuff is awesome. We'll see how that goes.
I think I am going to just lube mine with the Energy Suspension Formula 5 that stuff is awesome. We'll see how that goes.