exxonham

Hey everyone ive tried and done some research, but this is very very wierd.

1999 ES300, 147,000,

Alright all the interior lights on dash, sterio, headlights fogs, and mainly all interior lights flicker, its somewhat of a steady flicker But when the lights flash and im accelerating the transmission jumps slightly when it changes gears. But when the car is doing fine it shifts very smooth. So the trans is fine but WHY would the pulsing lights cause the transmission to slip in and out. It makes no sense.

It mainly does it at night, and sometimes during the day
Does it maybe few times a week, and it is my daily driver

So this might mean the alternator is failing, or one of the grounds is missing and needs to be cleaned and could I test the Alternator w/o taking it out of the car?

But this has no corelation with the transmission, Please help any advice would help

exxonham

Any advice would help, any ideas

01LEXPL

iTrader: (10)

I had this happen. I replaced the battery as it was around 5yrs old. Anyways it fixed my problems for a while.

But now i come to the idea that it is the alternator, particularly the voltage regulator within the alternator. I don't have the problem like you anymore, but i get the lights out warning when running a bunch of accessories simultaneously.

exxonham

Ok good well ill get the battery checked and possibly replaced cause its prob due and is there a way to test the alternator w/o taking it out of the car? and any idea about the transmission shifting wierd while all this is going on?

01ES300NYC

iTrader: (2)

check/change your battery....
check your alternator...change if needed or upgrade if desired....
you can also do the big 3 upgrade to help current flow...
and to get rid of the lights out warning while running mulitple electronics, upgrade the big 3 and also upgrade the wire from the battery to the factory fuse box using 4gauge or better....

01LEXPL

iTrader: (10)

Yes, there is a way to test the alternator with it in the car. They pretty much run the car and see the voltage that it pulls in, it should be at 13.8-14.2 - or something like that.

Mine read fine, and it works, just that the taillight out warning pisses me off as it is probably the voltage regulator in the alternator itself.

exxonham

Hey man what all is the Big 3 Upgrade, Know it deals with a beafed up ground and red wire and a better alternater. I will prob end up replacing the alternater and battery so more current flow would help, am about to install Xm, and hope in future install a laser jammer, so more current flow would prob help, what ya think

DaveGS4

iTrader: (2)

Some auto parts places like Advance Auto will test both your battery and alternator for free.

Benbendx

iTrader: (1)

I had the same problem and my car died too. All I did is take the positive terminal wire and brushed it with a brush cause of the corrosion that builds up years of use.

01ES300NYC

iTrader: (2)

yea make sure you check/clean/replace your terminals also.... i did the big 3 because im running 2 amps for my system, but even with the music off i notice an increase in current....windows go up and down faster, lights dont dim, and i dont get the lights out warning anymore...by the way i started my upgrade because my voltage regulator had went bad and i needed a new alternator anyway...

exxonham

Hey man is there a way to test the alternator W/O taking it out of the car?

But any Idea why the transmission would be acting up with this going on, sure it will all go away once I change the "battery/ alternator/ wires" what ever

But just doesent make much sense but thanks though

exxonham

Hey man can you explain the Big 3 little more to me? I wont be running a system but do run various electronics, and did you upgrade your alternator? I hear some ppl upgrade theirs, but what is there to upgrade? dont know too much about alternators

Benbendx

iTrader: (1)

The big 3 is at this site
http://www.j-body.org/forums/read.ph...13629&t=113629

01ES300NYC

iTrader: (2)

yes i upgraded my alternator also... 140amp... d35 yellow top battery...
the big 3... i used 2 gauge welding wire(got it for free from my job) but u can use 4 gauge or thicker amp wire...1.alternator to positive on battery with inline 150amp fuse....2..negative on battery to chassis...3..negative on battery to engine block... sorry i dont have pix right now. ill try and take some when it warms up a lill...