AndyG

I noticed there's alot of sludge in my 95 ES where you fill the oil and I'm sure the rest of the engine looks similar. I'm talking about when you remove the cap, you can see into that small oil bay/reservoir and it's just nasty gunky nasty.

Should I use an engine flush chemical? Seafoam it? Leave it be and use synthetic? It's a 95 and from what I read the bigger issues were in 97's+, is that true? The car runs fine, I'm just trying to see if it's anything to worry about.

Also, my bank 1 sensor 1 O2 sensor just went out, is that the rear-most sensor on the exhaust?

Thanks again.

brucelee1

iTrader: (2)

If it were me, I would:

Replace the PCV valve.

Run some Pennzoil regular dino in there for 1000 miles.

Then, switch to Pennzoil Platinum.

Change filter both times with OEM filter.

Good luck.

LeX2K

Leave it, and use Synthetic oil. The design of the filler area causes the oil to build up and harden, even my Lexus has it and the car has less than 40,000 miles. Honestly the worst thing you can do is try and remove it, the crud will fall down into the engine.

That crud is definitely not a reliable indicator of what the rest of the engine looks like! If you want to clean the engine, change the oil and use some cheap dino an add a half a can of Seafoam. Run that for 500 miles, then change the oil again, this time use a high mileage oil. After that, switch to a full synthetic. I've used this method on a 4 cylinder Camry and it works great, in fact it greatly reduced the puff of blue smoke I was getting due to worn/sludged up valve stem seals.

X2 on what brucelee said, use a Toyota OEM filter. Lots of opinions about this, but I maintain that for the price it is one of the best filters.

PFB

What you are seeing IS NOT SLUDGE. You are looking at a piece of metal buffle that may have some remmenance of varnish deposits on it. This is normal, and most Lexus' models of that age will have it. What you are confusing for sludge has also confused many other members in this forum.

I doubt that you have sludge, but if you want to feel better, than remove the front valve cover and have a look. I think that you will be pleasantly surprised

Phil

AndyG

Ok thank you so much for the responses. Seeing the car runs and drives just fine (besides some very minor oil leaking from what appears to be the oilpan), I wasn't exactly tripping about it or anything.

It's good to know it may not be any damaging sludge after all and what I'm going to do is get my oil changed at 1000 more miles with some Mobil 1 synthetic and a Toyota oil filter. I'll just keep changing out the oil as recommended or before; I don't think the previous owner was on top of that very well.

LeX2K

Possibly, but my 3VZ and 1MZ do have build up on that area. When I replaced the valve cover gaskets on the 3VZ, I removed most of the build up so it does happen. But yes the material there when new gives the appearance of oil deposits.

Either way unless you're pulling the covers, don't mess with it.

WAES300

I've read the top area where the oil is filled gets like that, and it is not indicative of the motor itself. Like many will surely mention, you have to take off the valve cover to see for sure. I wouldn't worry if it were me... & I run synthetic no issues.

pauloil

at 117K I would not switch to synthetic to treat anxiety about a little varnish deposit. if your car runs good, is not sludged up. consider autorx treatment. most nonturbo cars do fine on dino.

http://www.auto-rx.com/

nicks88

mine is the same on my 96 ES. 171k miles. My dads 98 avalon is the same 220k miles, so was my 02 Sienna 130k miles, and my 95 Avalon 98k miles I use to have. Just the way it is designed, the oil doesnt move around up in that area. Just a little crust. Wouldnt worry!!

angmedic91

iTrader: (5)

I agree with PFB, its a metal baffle just underneath the oil filler cap, it freaked me out also, then I realized it was a baffle. I wouldnt switch over to synthetic oil if you have a leak at the bottom. The synthetic oil will only cause it to leak more. I would fix the leak first, then switch over to synthetic. Im no expert, but have learned from the best on here.

AndyG

I'm going to replace the oil pan gasket and maybe even the oil pump while in there and hopefully that will fix the minor leak it's got. I think it's leaking now as I'm not sure what weight oil it had in it, but I put 5w-30 in it when I changed it and now it's got this tiny, tiny leak coming from what appears to be the oil pan or just above it.

I won't bother with synthetic or a flush or anything until I see more evidence than just that oil fill area now that I know it's not a great measure.

Thanks again for all of the replies!

MikeLex

Well, there's no oil pan gasket. It uses a RTV sealant.

AndyG

Ok, sounds like more investigation is in order. ;D Thanks for the headsup before I went nuts looking for an oil pan gasket.

Pardon the ignorance, but does this sealant weaken over time and become prone to leaks or should I be looking elsewhere and forget about that mess?

Parker Gen

You can always take the cam cover off and clean it all up...

yeldogt

Since you are unsure of the previous maintenance why don't you fill it up with one of the higher detergent regular oils available with a quality filter - and see what it looks like in a couple of thousand miles.

You may have to clean up the engine and look around to see what is leaking. Unless the pan was removed for some reason in its previous life I bet the oil is coming from someplace else.


We drive our fleet cars well over 200k before selling them on regular oil doing normal maintenance - all the cars we have that specify synthetic oils all have extended change intervals. To fill with synthetics and replace at 5k is a waste IMO.