Front Suspension Components [Repair Order]
#1
Front Suspension Components [Repair Order]
99 ES300, 76K miles. Looking for advice on where to start so I don't have to go back and remove anything just to continue my work...
My front end suspension is starting to make a lot of noise while driving... not when turning but when going over washboard surfaces or bumps and pot holes. I hear what sounds like a [higher - closer to the hood, driver and passenger side "clunking"] and [lower - closer to the floor - louder "clacking" on the driver side]. I'd also like to tighten/stiffen up the ride.
I'm thinking about new stuts, strut mounts, strut bearings, and all new rubber strut components.
Now for the lower - clacking sound - I'm not sure what the clacking is... maybe the sway bar, links, sway bar brackets, or bushings?? And will I be able to leave the actual struts installed when it comes time to work on the sway bar components?
I guess I'm really looking for advice on the REPAIR ORDER of front end suspension components so it gets LESS LABOR INTENSIVE as I complete the repairs.
Thanks in advance,
Ryan
My front end suspension is starting to make a lot of noise while driving... not when turning but when going over washboard surfaces or bumps and pot holes. I hear what sounds like a [higher - closer to the hood, driver and passenger side "clunking"] and [lower - closer to the floor - louder "clacking" on the driver side]. I'd also like to tighten/stiffen up the ride.
I'm thinking about new stuts, strut mounts, strut bearings, and all new rubber strut components.
Now for the lower - clacking sound - I'm not sure what the clacking is... maybe the sway bar, links, sway bar brackets, or bushings?? And will I be able to leave the actual struts installed when it comes time to work on the sway bar components?
I guess I'm really looking for advice on the REPAIR ORDER of front end suspension components so it gets LESS LABOR INTENSIVE as I complete the repairs.
Thanks in advance,
Ryan
#2
lower clacking could be what mine was, lower control arm bushings. i replaced my lower control arms, ball joints and tie rods. my sway bar bushings dont look bad but i may put them on my to do list. i definitely need struts all around, bearings, bushings and rubber insulators would be nice too.
anyway, i would check out the lower control arm bushings if i were you, sounds like you want to do everything i have left to do so youre right on time with those.
anyway, i would check out the lower control arm bushings if i were you, sounds like you want to do everything i have left to do so youre right on time with those.
#5
This is also the cheapest route to take. It sounds like the symptoms of sway links going bad and flopping around, which is definitely common.
If you can get underneath the car, grab the front sway bar and try to move it around. If it's loose, go ahead and replace the links and bushings. Very easy job to replace.
With as low a mileage as you have, I wouldn't just throw parts at it, much of the suspension probably has several years left on it.
#6
+1
This is also the cheapest route to take. It sounds like the symptoms of sway links going bad and flopping around, which is definitely common.
If you can get underneath the car, grab the front sway bar and try to move it around. If it's loose, go ahead and replace the links and bushings. Very easy job to replace.
With as low a mileage as you have, I wouldn't just throw parts at it, much of the suspension probably has several years left on it.
This is also the cheapest route to take. It sounds like the symptoms of sway links going bad and flopping around, which is definitely common.
If you can get underneath the car, grab the front sway bar and try to move it around. If it's loose, go ahead and replace the links and bushings. Very easy job to replace.
With as low a mileage as you have, I wouldn't just throw parts at it, much of the suspension probably has several years left on it.
But ha, try the bushing for $20 first before $400. I did and it did not work.
I just replaced every item on my 98; shocks, mounts, bumb stops, rubber isloaters (top and btm), top iso etc..Noise is gone. I figured why just replace the mounts then 1 years later a $10 part....
Everything from Toyo was about $400 and the alignment was perfect after the fact...
Last edited by snowmaker; 03-15-11 at 01:59 PM.
#7
I say I disagree. I tried the same bushings etc. There is a TSB on it (mounts only) and the mountes were it.
But ha, try the bushing for $20 first before $400. I did and it did not work.
I just replaced every item on my 98; shocks, mounts, bumb stops, rubber isloaters (top and btm), top iso etc..Noise is gone. I figured why just replace the mounts then 1 years later a $10 part....
Everything from Toyo was about $400 and the alignment was perfect after the fact...
But ha, try the bushing for $20 first before $400. I did and it did not work.
I just replaced every item on my 98; shocks, mounts, bumb stops, rubber isloaters (top and btm), top iso etc..Noise is gone. I figured why just replace the mounts then 1 years later a $10 part....
Everything from Toyo was about $400 and the alignment was perfect after the fact...
Strut mounts are also an issue, and the next place I would probably look if it's not the sway links/bushings, but it's a lot more money and a MUCH bigger pain to replace. You're also supposed to get an alignment afterwards, and might as well replace the struts while you're in there, etc. You're looking at over a thousand dollars in parts in labor for that repair (at a shop) I replaced the sway links and bushings myself for around $20-$30.
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#10
my 1998 ES300 has the same issue. My brother just replaced the two front strut mounts & the noise on the driver's side is gone. I still can hear the noise coming from the passenger's front wheel when going over bumps and rough roads.
I'll have him check/replace the sway bar link/bushing.
I'll have him check/replace the sway bar link/bushing.
#11
Thanks for the advice -- Does the front end need to be on jack stands or can I do this with ramps?
#13
Well, you shouldn't just "guess" on any replacement parts, that's why I said to test out the sway bar before you replace by trying to move it around. Front sway links are a common failure (mine were completely shot) and make the same noises the OP described, so I would look there first. Always check out the easiest fixes first. It can get expensive in a hurry if you just throw suspension parts at a vehicle to try and make sounds go away.
Strut mounts are also an issue, and the next place I would probably look if it's not the sway links/bushings, but it's a lot more money and a MUCH bigger pain to replace. You're also supposed to get an alignment afterwards, and might as well replace the struts while you're in there, etc. You're looking at over a thousand dollars in parts in labor for that repair (at a shop) I replaced the sway links and bushings myself for around $20-$30.
Strut mounts are also an issue, and the next place I would probably look if it's not the sway links/bushings, but it's a lot more money and a MUCH bigger pain to replace. You're also supposed to get an alignment afterwards, and might as well replace the struts while you're in there, etc. You're looking at over a thousand dollars in parts in labor for that repair (at a shop) I replaced the sway links and bushings myself for around $20-$30.
Again, I did my complete front end in about 1.5 hours for $400 with OEM (toyo) parts from Lexus. Ya, are correct on the shop price; WAY up there and a rip off. And the alignment after was not needed based on the print out.
#14
Technically, you don't need the front to be supported, but because access is limited around that area, it's usually easier to jack one corner up at a time and remove the wheel so you can get to them.
#15
My bad - I was actually referring to getting underneath the car and grabbing the sway bar to shake it and see if I hear noise BUT you answered my next question so thank YOU for clarifying!!