timing belt replacement
#1
timing belt replacement
I am thinking of changing the timing belt in my 94 es 300. Is it a pain or pretty easy. Also I have a oil leak which I am assuming is the front crank seal.
Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks... Dave
Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks... Dave
#2
It really depends on your level of expertise. If you've never done a repair on this level before, it will be a learning curve and could be a challenge. It also requires the proper tools, at minimum you need a harmonic balancer puller, and a camshaft holding tool (might as well replace the cam seals while you are at it). A seal puller is also very helpful, it can be done without but there is a risk of scratching the crank and cam.
Also, depending on your mileage, you might have valve cover gasket leaks which should be taken car of at the same time as doing the timing belt job.
Also, depending on your mileage, you might have valve cover gasket leaks which should be taken car of at the same time as doing the timing belt job.
#4
I would not risk it. I am very much a DIYer, but the tools you need, expertise, etc. I would buy as complete timing belt kit on E-Bay, then find a good shop to do the work. One mistake aligning the belt then you are for much more $$$.
#5
I understand the concerns but I have to be practical. I have been doing my own mechanic work for many years ( I am 54) and I am also a tightwad. I read on here how some people pay 250 + to get spark plugs put in and I cringe. I know it's not a chevy (thank goodness) but with a little patience anda manual and some good advice from the fine folks on this site I believe it can be done.
Get all the marks lined up and turn the engine over by hand a few times when I am done.
If I can solder thew led's in the gauge needles than a timing belt should be doable.
250 for spark plugs........... Not me
Dave
Get all the marks lined up and turn the engine over by hand a few times when I am done.
If I can solder thew led's in the gauge needles than a timing belt should be doable.
250 for spark plugs........... Not me
Dave
#6
The hardest part by far is actually disassembling the engine, actually putting the timing belt on is quite simple. It is even easier if the belt has timing marks on it, both the Toyota belt and the Mitsuboshi belts have the marks on them. The engine is non-interference, so if you do get the camshaft timing wrong, worse case is the engine simply won't run. Both the crankshaft and camshaft gears have marks on them that line up with the marks on the belt, line those up and you're good.
Here are some kits to consider, they have varying degrees of components depending on how complete a job you want to do
One
Two
Three
Four
Here are some kits to consider, they have varying degrees of components depending on how complete a job you want to do
One
Two
Three
Four
#7
Do It! I changed an Avalon and LS 430 last summer. Get some good DIY's and take your time. I'm not a mechanic and it took me two days for the LS but I saved $1000. Definitely worth it. I was able to access the Avalon's belt by taking off the right front tire. That was less than a days job to complete. If you have the confidence in yourself do it!
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#8
This video might help you the best i found so far it is the exact same engine
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DI60MOkf168
get the timing belt kit from amazon.com (CHEAP)
rent the extraction tools from Autozon (FREE)
ask a friend to assist you (that is very helpful)
take your time and plan for not using the car for couple of days taking it apart is will take longer than putting it together again
Good Luck
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DI60MOkf168
get the timing belt kit from amazon.com (CHEAP)
rent the extraction tools from Autozon (FREE)
ask a friend to assist you (that is very helpful)
take your time and plan for not using the car for couple of days taking it apart is will take longer than putting it together again
Good Luck
#9
Excellent video.
Only a couple of things to note from that video. One, he did not use thread sealer aka loctite on the tensioner bearing bolt, the manual calls for it. Will it make a difference? Maybe not. Two, the way he removed the hydraulic tensioner bolts is a good way to strip them. Back off the bolts slowly, a little at a time on each one so the hydraulic tensioner comes out evenly. Also, the clearance issue he had with the water pump studs are not as bad on the ES but still a pain in the neck.
If you plan on re-using the hydraulic tensioner, you will need a good vice to compress it, it takes about 2200 lbs of force.
Only a couple of things to note from that video. One, he did not use thread sealer aka loctite on the tensioner bearing bolt, the manual calls for it. Will it make a difference? Maybe not. Two, the way he removed the hydraulic tensioner bolts is a good way to strip them. Back off the bolts slowly, a little at a time on each one so the hydraulic tensioner comes out evenly. Also, the clearance issue he had with the water pump studs are not as bad on the ES but still a pain in the neck.
If you plan on re-using the hydraulic tensioner, you will need a good vice to compress it, it takes about 2200 lbs of force.
#11
Excellent video indeed. I understand the need the need to save money and getting some satisfaction from DIY. In my case I got the complete part set (Water pump, belts, etc.) for $275. I found a shop through a friend that charged me $250 for installation. I think that is a pretty good deal.
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