MyEs300Yea

Yes do not get cheap rotors from china, i got mines from Motorsports in Michigan.

LeX2K

Those are sexy, I want them!
Agreed. The last time I got the cheap stuff they didn't stop worth a damn, the surface never wore right and was never flat, there were always small scratches in the surface so the pad never made proper contact. Garbage.

MyEs300Yea

Believe it or not this things feel smooth, i took the car out to test drive it and it brakes faster, now i haven't break in the pads and rotors yet, i will do that this weekend at the race track LOL.......Sike!!
Alot of people prefer OEM pads and rotors which is ok, the only reason i went with slotted drill and ceramic pads its because on my way to work i have to go over 2 mountains and it requires alot of braking on the way down, so slott and drill it is to release some heat from the pad and rotor contact.

LeX2K

Got a link to the Ebay seller of those rotors? PM me if you don't want to post it here. Thanks.

Steelfan

I get most of my stuff from Rockauto.com. Good prices and fast delivery.

My local shop has been installing Freeman VBX rotors on cars for the last couple years and has had really good luck with them. I haven't checked to see if they were available for my ES300 or Corolla, though. They are made in Brazil but he says they are really good quality and they actually manufacture for Brembo.

funcrusher

Can I just replace all 4 pads now and the rotors in a few months? I was going to order 4 OEM (or OE whatever the brand is) pads. Kind of low on cash right now.


I also figured i'd flush out the brake fluid and replace it. Best brand? Should I just pick it up from the dealership?

yeldogt

Drilled or slotted rotors can have a place on an automobile -- but your not going to gain anything putting them on a Lexus. Braking is all about mass -- and drilled slotted rotors have less mass for the same size rotor. Also -- the metal need to be very high quality so you do not get any cracking between the holes -- also the pads need to be correct for the application.

If you were towing a trailer and the brakes overheated -- then maybe giving up some power for cooler rotors would be a reasonable compromise.

Well designed brakes will run cool enough.


Funcrusher -- you need to do them at the same time. So do one set and then do the other -- you want new pads with new rotors. The correct fluid will be in the manual -- also should be n the cap -- most of them use Dot 3. Doing a flush is a good idea -- any major brand of the corret brake fluid is OK

funcrusher

Ok, I'm about to order pads for my 02 es from here

http://irontoad.com/Merchant2/mercha...Code=2002es300

but I only see front brake pads. Where should I go for my rear brake pads? I looked around rockauto but there's like 10 different brands, no idea what to go with. Someone help!

daps

I have a 2000 es300 and the steering wheel has begun to shake when I apply the brakes. All I really know is that means at least the front rotors need replacing. I'm a beginner with working on cars, but a friend of mine said replacing brakes is relatively simple and I'd like to go for it and get the experience. Of course, I've got a couple questions...

I know I need to replace all four pad pairs because it's just that time. I've got 72k miles and I bought it used at 65k, and I don't know the repair history. Is there any way to know if I need to replace all my rotors, or just the front? Or is that a stupid question because they should always be replaced as a set?

yeldogt mentioned Irontoad for OEM parts. Is there much added benefit in replacing OEM with performance brakes to justify the added cost, or should I just go with OEM as the best option?

Thanks!

MyEs300Yea

do a pad replace for all 4 but just do the front rotors or do all 4 rotors as well, its your call

Hayk

iTrader: (1)

It is not necessary to replace all four corners, just because you're doing the brakes. The front brakes always do most of the braking, so they wear out quicker than the rears. Sometimes you can expect to do the rear, every other time you do the front. It really depends on the condition of the pads/rotors. So take off all four wheels and look at the thickness of your pads (on both sides of the rotor - they sometimes wear unevenly).

If you're feeling vibrations through the wheel, chances are that your rotors are warped and need to be resurfaced on a grinding machine (lathe). The thing is, when you grind down the rotors, you're taking away their braking potential because you're left with less material - so you can't resurface more than once. And you can only resurface to a certain thickness. The other option is to just swap them out with new rotors. It's a little more expensive, but at least you'll have the security of brand new hardware.

I try to stick with OEM, especially with such a reputable company like Toyota (Lexus). They make some high quality parts that last a long time. If you shop around, you'll notice that aftermarket is actually a little bit cheaper than OEM. But I prefer to know that my OE parts were specifically engineered to work on my car.

I use Pembroke Pines Lexus from Florida, they seem to have the lowest prices and shipping costs for OEM parts. (around 20% off of MSRP)

Search for a DIY Brake Job thread on this forum, it will help you a lot. It's also a good idea to invest in a click-type torque wrench for tightening the brake caliper/bracket bolts and the wheel lug nuts. I recommend the one on NorthernTool.com (it's around $35)

1/2" drive (20-150 ft. lbs)
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/too...3524_200263524

3/8" drive (5-80 ft. lbs)
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/too...3474_200263474

I have both, since they vary in torque settings. The rule about torque wrenches is to select the one that has your desired setting in the middle of its range.

Oh and don't forget to get two special bolts (I forget the thread pattern). You will need them to remove the rotors.

yeldogt

The only way to determine what is causing the problem is to have a look.

Vented rotors should not be cut or dressed -- they need to be replaced. The specification for most rotors does not allow for much wear no mater the design. Its not like the old days of thick solid rotors that you normally cut regardless of condition.

Learning how to work on your car can be a rewarding exercise but you need to know what you are doing to be safe while working on the car and also doing the job correctly.


The ES is no sports car -- it does not need "performance" brakes -- whatever they are. The stock set up provides excellent braking with long life. If you plan on keeping the car getting the OE parts will only cost a few dollars over cheaper parts and you will have many trouble free miles. That is not to say you can not get quality aftermarket parts -- It's just not worth the trouble since you can get the quality Toyota parts online for a reasonable price.

So .....give it all a look and replace what is needed. If the rotors have any lip cut into the edge -- I would plan on replacement when the pad are down on the rears. Sounds like you will need pads and rotors on the front. Make sure the associated hardware is in good condition when you take it all apart. These are all old cars at this point.

I use Irontoad as they are close to me and I receive the parts in a day or two -- and the prices are excellent -- you may be able to find similar at Pembroke.

MikeLex

Go with AKEBONO.

daps

Thanks for the advice on a DIY brake job. I've been looking for the proper torque levels for the pad and rotor bolts. Does anyone have any idea what ft*lbs to set those bolts to? So far, the Internet has told me anywhere between 22 and 85 ft*lbs. But present company excluded, I don't really trust the Internet.

mdbrown

Caliper installation bolt 25 ft.lbs, front brake torque plate to steering knuckle 79 ft.lbs.