How to replace knock sensors in 99 ES300
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I have Lexus ES 300 99 model. I have engine check light on which shows two knock sensor error codes and one catalytic converter error code. Does any one have worked on fixing knock sensor of Lexus ES300 by themselves? If yes please guide me through the process (pictures or videos will be really helpful). I got a quote from repair shop and they said it will cost me $690 ($190 each knock sensor+ 3 hrs of labor) to replace knock sensors. Any help will be greatly appreciated.
Thank you,
Saggy
Thank you,
Saggy
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Saggy, I understand this is not a tough task. DO NOT PAY the $690. I have the exact same problem right now with my 99es300. I just found the part for $50 by a company called autopart pro. Same part # OEM 896151-2040. I will get the step by step & post it here. I will take pics. (FYI)-With the ES300, once one function of the engine goes out typical there is multi errors. The reason is that the other parts depend on broken part to properly function. I'm that is the problem with the cat converter. If you can wait a few days, (i understand if you can't) But I will do my best to post that stuff here) It'll save you $640! Also, go to AUTOZONE, they can do a check engine light test for free & can tell "which of the 2" are out. You prob only need to replace one. Not both. They will tell you Bank 1 or Bank 2 sensor is out. We'l be in touch
http://www.amazon.com/94-00-Lexus-Kn.../dp/B003DSFIFS
http://www.amazon.com/94-00-Lexus-Kn.../dp/B003DSFIFS
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Deeda, thank you for responding. I checked with fire stone and they reconfirmed that I have two knock sensor codes showing up P0325 code for bank 1 and P0330 for bank 2. Also, I have one catalyst converter code p0420. I will wait this weekend to see your work. I don’t want to be rude but when are you planning to fix your knock sensor. Again thank you very much for giving me hope that I can fix it my self and not spending so much of money. I am eagerly waiting to see the instructions.
Sagar.
Sagar.
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Actually, 3 hours of labor is not bad for a job which requires removal of the intake manifold. I'd be very leery of a $50 part too, especially considering what it takes to get to it if it turns out to be insufficient. There are times to cut corners but I don't think this is one of them, buy the OE part. The cat converter code should go away once the knock sensors are repaired. You might do well to check wiring while you wait, both sensors failing at the same time is a bit odd...
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OK... well after reading all the posts on this issue i have decided to replace both knock sensors, wire harness, bypass hose, gaskets, and spark plugs. I have learned a lot of the procedure in this thread but to make sure i did it right the first time, i went out and got a repair manual from the nearest advanced auto parts store before i started. This book gave me the torque specifications to tighten the manifold to the right torque. This is a really easy job if your handy with a wrench and you are patient with cleaning off the manifolds before installing the new gaskets.(REALLY IMPORTANT). This job looks like a big Job but it is really fairly easy. It took me a fair part of the day around 5 hours. I did find when i got the intake manifold off was leaves and bird feathers. Something was nesting in it and if not cleaned out my car would have probably caught on fire.
I was quoted a price of $1200.00 from a garage. I didn't even go to the Lexus dealer probably cost alot more. I spent $500.00 in parts and i feel pretty satisfied that i didn't pay $700.00 for someone to do this in labor.
Good luck to everyone on this Project.
I have 1999 Lexus ES300 120,000 miles
I was quoted a price of $1200.00 from a garage. I didn't even go to the Lexus dealer probably cost alot more. I spent $500.00 in parts and i feel pretty satisfied that i didn't pay $700.00 for someone to do this in labor.
Good luck to everyone on this Project.
I have 1999 Lexus ES300 120,000 miles
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got a engine light and it also shows P0325
dang it i always fill with highest octane gas and still....
so it looks like will have to remove the intake has to be removed . so just wondering since removing it should i also change the other sensor which is P0330?
just wondering what happens if i didn't change the the P0325 sensor
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so it looks like will have to remove the intake has to be removed . so just wondering since removing it should i also change the other sensor which is P0330?
just wondering what happens if i didn't change the the P0325 sensor
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When my knock sensor failed the car would go into limp mode. Basically making it undriveable. Other people have reported no adverse driving affects from a bad knock sensor. As I understand, driving without a working knock sensor would not allow detection of knocking. Knocking does bad things to an engine.
I recommend replacing the bad knock sensor. But, if you are willing to take the chance of having undetected knocking and your car does not go into limp mode then don't replace it. I was not willing to accept that risk.
I only replaced the bad knock sensor when I replaced mine. I usually only replace bad components. But if you think the other knock sensor might go bad and don't want to deal with the replacement again go ahead and replace both. They are close together and there is minimal extra work (unscrewing the old one and screwing in the new one) to replace both.
I recommend replacing the bad knock sensor. But, if you are willing to take the chance of having undetected knocking and your car does not go into limp mode then don't replace it. I was not willing to accept that risk.
I only replaced the bad knock sensor when I replaced mine. I usually only replace bad components. But if you think the other knock sensor might go bad and don't want to deal with the replacement again go ahead and replace both. They are close together and there is minimal extra work (unscrewing the old one and screwing in the new one) to replace both.
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I have done this job many times on es300's... the shortcut is to take the three 12mm bolts off and split the intake in two,,,and take advantage of the black flex hoses... with a helper one firm pull eliminates a lot of work... from there all the work is the screws, bolts, and nuts down the firewall... its all 10mm and 14mm... ratcheting wrenches do the trick... pay mind to not dropping em... keep a magnet near you... as for the brace only remove the top bolt...
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and I agree... dont mess with aftermarket parts on this job... Toyota uses whats called a Resonance Piezo Electric Knock Sensor... they only read at 7000hz... normal knock sensors are mass piezo(hear all sounds) to test these knock sensors you have to make the system run lean or have an oscilloscope...
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I have done this job many times on es300's... the shortcut is to take the three 12mm bolts off and split the intake in two,,,and take advantage of the black flex hoses... with a helper one firm pull eliminates a lot of work... from there all the work is the screws, bolts, and nuts down the firewall... its all 10mm and 14mm... ratcheting wrenches do the trick... pay mind to not dropping em... keep a magnet near you... as for the brace only remove the top bolt...