LexLthr911

I have a 2002 ES 300 and noticed valve covers are leaking. I want to change the gaskets and have made a checklist of items needed for the job. I am going to do the front first and then evaluate the rear one as it looks more complicated.

1. Gaskets
2. Spark plug tube gaskets
3. PCV valve
4. FIPG

Now a few questions.

Is the FIPG necessary when changing the gaskets? How is it applied? (eg all around the gasket or only in certain areas)

If anyone has changed the rear gasket on this model and year, can you please advise how complicated it is?

Would appreciate anyone's input on this. If there is anything I forgot, please let me know.

BDSL

Yes, FIPG or RTV sealant is required. It is like a toothpaste. Apply it on corners and sharp turns (i.e. certain areas).

You will have to remove the intake manifold, EGR, intake plumbing, etc....

EEngineer

i didn't use FIPG when i did mine, but it's good to use it i guess. I just thought it was messy.

you should get a PCV valve grommet as well. those tend to go bad quicker than the PCV valves themselves.

LexLthr911

Thanks everyone. Anyone know the specifications to tighten valve cover bolts.

BDSL

Do the cross pattern....and little by little.
Service manual calls for 69 in lbf. I used some blue loctite. Some people use flat washers.....

EEngineer

factory torque spec is too low. I recommend hand tightening them to about 30ftlb instead of the 13~15 from factory.
use an extra washer will help as well.

1100HP

Factory tq spec is 6 foot pounds. How did you come to the realization that it was too low. I am running a 2jz at over 1000 whp with mine tightened down to 6 foot pounds. Not trying to be a d*ck or anything, just curious as to your point. They have had hundereds of engineers pour over the designs of these cars and they have spent countless hours in r&d. Just curious.

LexLthr911

ok, getting a lot of different specs here. Does anyone have a repair manual on hand to check the factory specs?

EEngineer

why are you comparing a 2JZ with a 1MZ?
it's apples and oranges man.

the v6 motors like 1MZ, 3VZ are known to have leaky valve covers because of they are a quite under torqued.
these problems happen all the time because the manufacturer was too cautious about not over torque anything.
another example is that the older supra 7m motors are known to have under torqued head bolts and they tend to blow head gaskets more often than other motors.

I learned this from my friend who's professional automotive guy who also happens to have a 1000+whp supra and a 730whp camry of which he did 30ftlb of torque on the valve covers and doubled up the washers to do so.

plus, the factory torque spec is just a guideline. it's not written in stone and it's not a bible.
the numbers are made up by people like you and me and I just happen to be an engineer as well.

anyway, there's no right and wrong really. whatever that works is just fine

1100HP

Thanks for the reply. Very interesting. I have cracked 2 valve covers on previous builds due to overtightening but I assume the use of two washers gives you double the area to spread the load out on. No offense to you man.

EEngineer

it's cool. no worries.
It's a good habit to go by the manual, nothing wrong with doing things right.
I feel ya about the cracking valve cover. I did that once too because I tightened the corner too much before any other bolts were tightened, and once i finished tightening the rest, the corner of the valve cover cracked haha. I felt like an idiot doing that and learned always to slowly tighten things and do the crisscross pattern.

and you are definitely right about the washers. i urge people to get new ones every time they do their valve covers. doubling up helps, and having fresh ones is even better!

blastoise

iTrader: (2)

Be careful valve cover bolts will snap real easy...I do not recommend going 30ftlb

LeX2K

I'm surprised those fasteners can even take 30 pounds of torque without snapping. I like to use the "feel' method for valve covers, tighten them until they don't want to turn anymore without much more force applied.

BDSL

A few years ago, I over-torqued the valve cover bolts on my MR2 resulting in cracking my valve cover....$$$$.

2 years ago, when I was doing my 97 ES300 at 300,000 km (190,000 miles), I just used blue loctite and 6 ft lbf of torque....re-using the original fasteners. I used Toyota/Lexus valve cover gaskets. I am now at +400,000 km (+250,000 miles) and no leak.

Just my experience.

burny

anyone know the part # for the valve cover bolts and washers?