ES - 1st to 4th Gen (1990-2006) Forum for all 1990 - 2006 ES300 and ES330 models. ES250 topics go here as well.

cleaning the IACV..

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Old 01-09-12, 04:30 PM
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imherenow
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Thumbs up cleaning the IACV..

ok so i didnt know which thread to attach it to. So i made a new one..here is a good video. I always love a DIY

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eQpPc...2&feature=plcp
Old 01-10-12, 01:58 AM
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MikeLex
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The guy is nuts but the DIY is good! Thanks for posting.
Old 01-10-12, 09:26 AM
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01LEXPL
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That's a good find, and the car has the same motor as the 00-01's. Avalon.
Old 01-11-12, 11:40 AM
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imherenow
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so should i also clean that sensor on the right valve too? or just leave it as it and dont spray?
Old 01-11-12, 01:51 PM
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01LEXPL
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Oh yeah, here's a step by step from the 1gen RX's. Same VVTI motor as the ES' from 00-01. Obviously, less things to remove as the RX is more cramped for space.
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/rx-...-write-up.html
Old 01-12-12, 11:49 AM
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So ok i managed to remove all parts..man it was tough to remove the ducts..anyways i got a problem. The two screws that hold the IACV ( black unit) were just not able to come off..I tried all screwdrivers and it just wont come off. So i called a toyota/lexus mechanic and they caid if it doesnt come off then just leave it. i might make it worse or might break something. So i took their advice and left as it is. So i went ahead and sprayed the intake and cleaned it with a tooth brush and paper towel. It was def very dirty. I cleaned whatever i could. I didnt use lot of spray, but enough to clean whatever i could. Then waited for 30mins or so and started it. It reved up fine. But now i just wait for a warm weather to see if it fails again or not.
Here is the pic. There were some hoses that i had to remove and has a different layout than the RX300 engine
Attached Thumbnails cleaning the IACV..-dscf0114.jpg  
Old 01-12-12, 06:01 PM
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97'ES
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Yeah those screws are unbelievably prone to stripping or breaking. Have to be delicate... I can't recall the size
Old 01-12-12, 09:10 PM
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I don't understand why they used screws instead of hex bolts, just like on the rest of the car...
Old 01-13-12, 09:47 AM
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imherenow
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well its probably because of age of the car that those screws will just wont turn. i think to leave it as it is. Also i had a hard time removing all those ducts too.
Since i had full access to the air filter and the whole unit on which it sits i went ahead and thoroughly cleaned the bottom of the air filter holder. it was all dirt and dry leaves.
Old 01-14-12, 03:06 AM
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imherenow
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unfortunately the car still had the same problem and didnt start properly. Do you guys know what i can do to unscrew them? like can i use some other technique or some other tool to unscrew those nuts...
Old 01-14-12, 05:47 PM
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imherenow
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so anyways since i cannot unscrew those screws i went ahead and sprayed into that opening and opened the hose where all the liquid came out. i sprayed a lot and used a cotton swaps to clean whatever i could reach. there was LOT of dirt.
now we wait and see if the car fails to start again next time
Attached Thumbnails cleaning the IACV..-dscf0116.jpg   cleaning the IACV..-dscf0123.jpg  
Old 02-18-12, 09:55 PM
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imherenow
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well this is what happened to the screws
Attached Thumbnails cleaning the IACV..-dscf0114.jpg  
Old 02-19-12, 12:52 PM
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hypervish
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You are going to have to drill them out. First, buy replacement screws and then get to work drilling. lol
Old 02-20-12, 10:48 AM
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Use penetrating oil, wait for it to penetrate, use an "Easy-out" set (drill into the screw first). This is what happens when an engineer uses two different metals, i.e., steel and aluminium, it freezes up over time. Try very gently rapping on screws after pen oil, might help break the corrosion seal, but only gently. On my Jeep Cherokee, I had to grind off the head and use channel locks to unscrew the TPS.
Old 02-20-12, 10:17 PM
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Hayk
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Oh damn, that is why I didn't want to risk stripping the screws. Good luck with the repair.


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