Check Engine Light
#1
Lead Lap
Thread Starter
Check Engine Light
I have a 1995 ES300 with 113,000 miles and last week the "Check Engine" Light came on. I checked the gas cap and it was tight. The light is still on a week later. I called the dealer and they think it's a Emissions Valve. To replace this, it'll cost me almost $300. Should I bother? I'd like to keep the car as I'v had it for 5 years and personally put over 80,000 miles on it and it runs great. I just flushed the power steering fluid, transmission fluid, replaced timing belt, new battery, and brake fluid/flush. Exterior/Interior is in great condition. I probably need one CV Boot, tune-up/plugs, coolant flush/fill, and brake pads at next inspection. I'm torn between putting $1,000 into the 1995 or sucking it up and buying a leftover 2002 in 2003. What should I do?
#2
As I see it, you've already put all that money into the car for those repairs, whats another 300 bucks?
I know where you're coming from. I've spent nearly $4,000 on my Explorer in service in the past 5 months, I still havent decided if I'm going to keep it or trade it in on the ES when it comes. The woman at my leasing company had a good idea though, trade it in, place what I get from it in a savings account and use it to make the payments for the first year.
Tempting.
I know where you're coming from. I've spent nearly $4,000 on my Explorer in service in the past 5 months, I still havent decided if I'm going to keep it or trade it in on the ES when it comes. The woman at my leasing company had a good idea though, trade it in, place what I get from it in a savings account and use it to make the payments for the first year.
Tempting.
#3
Super Moderator
check the air hose and your motor mounts (the dogbone piece mainly). they pretty much collapse simultaneously and will cause your check engine light to come on. you should at least get a diagnostic done, IMO.
#5
Lead Lap
Thread Starter
thanks
thanks for the responses.
1. I disconnected the negative battery terminal for 30 secs and the light went off. BUT- it came back on after a short trip.
2. I called Pep Boys for a "free" diagnosis - but they quoted me $89.
3. I tried the self-read with T1 and E1 jump but the light refused to blink!!!!
I think I will wait until my next oil change at Toyota dealer and ask them to pull the code for free during oil change. They originally told me they can't read Lexus codes but I think that's BS. I may just suck it up and buy a slightly used 2002 in 1Q 2003.
1. I disconnected the negative battery terminal for 30 secs and the light went off. BUT- it came back on after a short trip.
2. I called Pep Boys for a "free" diagnosis - but they quoted me $89.
3. I tried the self-read with T1 and E1 jump but the light refused to blink!!!!
I think I will wait until my next oil change at Toyota dealer and ask them to pull the code for free during oil change. They originally told me they can't read Lexus codes but I think that's BS. I may just suck it up and buy a slightly used 2002 in 1Q 2003.
#6
The T1 and E1 jumper method doesn't work for CEL codes anymore, as OBD2 is the standard. But for some other diagnosis like brakes, ABS, traction control, then it should. Try Autozone, if there is one available, they might be able to check it for you for free.
Luc
Luc
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