ES300 no spark, no start
02-11-12, 05:24 PM
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ES300 no spark, no start
I have a 99 ES300 with 230K miles that I just changed timing belt, water pump, ps pump, crank seal, crank sensor, valve cover gaskets, plugs, etc.
Got it all back together and it cranks but will not start. Coil connectors are getting 11.9V power, fuel is pressurized. All connectors in place. ECM is getting power.
Been troubleshooting electrical for a week. All I can think of now is the theft deterrent system is preventing it from starting. System is activated when locked and panic button operable.
Any ideas are welcome, thanks
Got it all back together and it cranks but will not start. Coil connectors are getting 11.9V power, fuel is pressurized. All connectors in place. ECM is getting power.
Been troubleshooting electrical for a week. All I can think of now is the theft deterrent system is preventing it from starting. System is activated when locked and panic button operable.
Any ideas are welcome, thanks
02-11-12, 09:21 PM
#4
You replaced a lot of crucial components that contribute to the symptoms that you are experiencing, so that it is very difficult to pin point which one might be responsible. I would recommend to double check your work.
Find out why there is no spark before you go anywhere else.
Find out why there is no spark before you go anywhere else.
02-12-12, 01:02 PM
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Thanks I have looked at everything that was changed. Timing still accurate, resistance good on new crankshaft position sensor, all connectors cleaned and hooked up. Camshaft position sensor checks out ok. Diagnostics recommendations followed to this point indicate no problems. I don't know any other reasons spark not being produced when everything seems right for it to happen.
02-13-12, 04:40 AM
#7
Actually, while a bit low 11.9 volts is enough for the digital electronics to operate properly. I'd be looking to verify spark first. Check your relay second, the circuit opening relay will, if not energized, cut off the fuel supply. You'll have pressure but the injectors will not fire.
Assuming the car is not getting spark I'd go back to the crank sensor as that's the one that typically will create a no start. The crank sensor supplies the signal to the computer so it can start, once started the crank sensor is ignored and the cam sensor supplies the signal for spark timing.
Assuming the car is not getting spark I'd go back to the crank sensor as that's the one that typically will create a no start. The crank sensor supplies the signal to the computer so it can start, once started the crank sensor is ignored and the cam sensor supplies the signal for spark timing.
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02-13-12, 01:42 PM
#8
Actually, while a bit low 11.9 volts is enough for the digital electronics to operate properly. I'd be looking to verify spark first. Check your relay second, the circuit opening relay will, if not energized, cut off the fuel supply. You'll have pressure but the injectors will not fire.
Assuming the car is not getting spark I'd go back to the crank sensor as that's the one that typically will create a no start. The crank sensor supplies the signal to the computer so it can start, once started the crank sensor is ignored and the cam sensor supplies the signal for spark timing.
Assuming the car is not getting spark I'd go back to the crank sensor as that's the one that typically will create a no start. The crank sensor supplies the signal to the computer so it can start, once started the crank sensor is ignored and the cam sensor supplies the signal for spark timing.
02-13-12, 04:44 PM
#10
No, the OP stated the coils have 11.9 volt signal which does nothing to determine if the coil is actually firing and/or the spark plug is creating spark. He also stated that the fuel pressure is good which doesn't mean the injectors are working only that the fuel pump is operating and there is no leak. He still needs to determine if there is spark at the spark plug and/or if the injectors are firing...
02-14-12, 03:13 AM
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Thank you all for your suggestions, they are very helpful. I did charge the battery to a full amount and last night started tracing the wires from the crank sensor to see if there is a break somewhere, since the P0335 code has resurfaced (one of original issues). I checked the injectors and they are not receiving any electrical signal during crank. When I checked for spark the plug was out attached to the coil and grounded. Will continue looking on Wed I promised my wife I would not work on it today...
02-19-12, 02:52 PM
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Traced CPS wires back to ECM all ok, CPS resistance good. I pulled off crank timing gear to look at sensor and there was one tooth broken off. Installed new one and it now starts and code is gone.
However....engine seems to run runs smooth but does not idle at all, it just dies. Have to keep foot on gas to get it over 1000 rpm. Vacuum hoses all hooked up and all electrical connectors installed. Any ideas?
However....engine seems to run runs smooth but does not idle at all, it just dies. Have to keep foot on gas to get it over 1000 rpm. Vacuum hoses all hooked up and all electrical connectors installed. Any ideas?
02-20-12, 06:17 AM
#15
Check your vacuum hoses again, especially the PCV host underneath the intake manifold on the back valve cover. Verify that the surge tank gasket isn't leaking (you used a new one, right?)