Diagnosis Confussion after Pulling Codes: Cam Related
#1
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So for background info this is my car:
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/es3...or-or-fix.html
Anyway, I've been having a heck of a time locating a Pick-n-pull motor in the VVTi configuration. Non-VVTi I can find them all day long. I understand I can plunk down 1200-1500 for a running motor, but only $200 if I can find one in a pick-n-pull.
What's got me stumped is while the car was at the dealer, they stated Bank 2 (2,4,6 cyl) as having the bad cam and cam sprocket. When I pull the codes though I get, P0300, P0301, P0303, and P0305 which is Bank 1 (1,3,5 cyl) all dealing with miss-fires..
Anyone have any idea why it would thow the codes this way? Is the timing that is off in Bank 2 causing the codes to be thrown on Bank 1? This just seems really odd to me.
I didn't want to take the car apart unitl I had all my parts in hand.
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/es3...or-or-fix.html
Anyway, I've been having a heck of a time locating a Pick-n-pull motor in the VVTi configuration. Non-VVTi I can find them all day long. I understand I can plunk down 1200-1500 for a running motor, but only $200 if I can find one in a pick-n-pull.
What's got me stumped is while the car was at the dealer, they stated Bank 2 (2,4,6 cyl) as having the bad cam and cam sprocket. When I pull the codes though I get, P0300, P0301, P0303, and P0305 which is Bank 1 (1,3,5 cyl) all dealing with miss-fires..
Anyone have any idea why it would thow the codes this way? Is the timing that is off in Bank 2 causing the codes to be thrown on Bank 1? This just seems really odd to me.
I didn't want to take the car apart unitl I had all my parts in hand.
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I understand that, what I don't understand is why the reverse of what the computer is picking up vs. what the dealer is stating on the location of the problem.
On the VVTi intake cam removal, is it necessary to remove the OCV first before pulling the cam?
Also, I'm assuming the procedure is the same as far as bolting down exhaust subgear to the gear on the cam itself as the exhaust cams look identical.
On the VVTi intake cam removal, is it necessary to remove the OCV first before pulling the cam?
Also, I'm assuming the procedure is the same as far as bolting down exhaust subgear to the gear on the cam itself as the exhaust cams look identical.
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After reading this I'm half tempted to buy some new OCV valves:
http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/15...ve-filter.html
http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/15...ve-filter.html
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It is perplexing. Reset the codes started it up and only P0301 (miss-fire on Cyl 1) came up. Double checked the original pics and the crack does show on Bank 2 cam sprocket.
I guess I need to quit being so **** about this and just take it apart.
I guess I need to quit being so **** about this and just take it apart.
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I believe the help the customer via the most expensive way possible.
With my cam gear problem they may be 100% right with their diagnosis, but for whatever reason I'm just having a hard time with it, even though I complete understand what they are saying.
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You may not have a choice but to replace/repair what you know is wrong. Reassemble and then see if there is anything else wrong. Diagnosis, even by the best technician isn't always going to find everything. Once you locate an issue, especially something as major as a cracked camshaft, you have to fix that before you can determine if there are any additional concerns.
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I've got a garage sale coming up to dump a bunch of stuff and I have to get my sons 280z out of the garage because I want to tear down the lexus inside the garage, not out.
I did get the front fender on tonight so thanks! His 280z is a father son project that seems to be all father! Kinda frustrating having a 17 year old at times!
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My mess and my 300zx is hidding in front of my truck, behind the golf cart is my tow dolly and the 3rd car garage is filled with crap and Datsun parts. Yeah, yeah, excuses, excuses...
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Last edited by JSM; 04-24-12 at 06:33 PM.
#11
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Ok kool. Do a compression check on the bank that they say has a bad camshaft and post up the numbers.
Make sure the engine is fully warmed up to normal operating temperature before performing the test. And test it at WOT (of course disable the EFI) for accurate readings. Make sure you crank it 4-6 times per cylinder.
Make sure the engine is fully warmed up to normal operating temperature before performing the test. And test it at WOT (of course disable the EFI) for accurate readings. Make sure you crank it 4-6 times per cylinder.
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Ok kool. Do a compression check on the bank that they say has a bad camshaft and post up the numbers.
Make sure the engine is fully warmed up to normal operating temperature before performing the test. And test it at WOT (of course disable the EFI) for accurate readings. Make sure you crank it 4-6 times per cylinder.
Make sure the engine is fully warmed up to normal operating temperature before performing the test. And test it at WOT (of course disable the EFI) for accurate readings. Make sure you crank it 4-6 times per cylinder.
My wife just looks at me and says isn't that why you bought the other motor? I just laughed and said sure, but if I could fix the current one it would save a lot of work.
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I'm really wonder if something failed in the motor and also caused the cam gear damage? Also curious to pull this apart. Might be a head gasket.
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