BDSL

250kGoal,

I also have a 97 ES300 with almost 270k miles and still drives good.

I would recommend you to change the timing belt. And since you probably do not know what had been replaced before. And since the timing belt will be off, I also highly recommend new water pump (w/ gasket), crank seal, cam seals, tensioner, idlers, etc. It will save you headache and money in the long run.

Sometimes carbon deposit would build up on the piston and valves. Therefore, if the belt breaks, there is still a slight chance that the pistons/valves can be damaged even if you have a "non-interference" engine. And of course, since the mechanic doesn't know if there is any damage, he will have to charge you extra for compression test.

Furthermore, when the timing belt breaks while you are driving, it is extremely dangerous. Power steering would be disable. Vacuum-assist braking would be disable. You can create a hazard on the road. And even if you survive and/or substain no injuries, you will be stranded until a tow truck shows up...which you will have to pay for. Your day will be ruined. Depending on the garage and time, the mechanic might not able to source all the part(s) immediately. Therefore, you might have to get a rent a vehicle for a few days.

You get the picture??

Those who said "Don't fix it until it breaks...", I wonder if they have first hand experience at this....or they just take someone else's word for it.

tomf

This is what you need to do to remove the timing belt cover:

1. REMOVE RH FRONT WHEEL
2. REMOVE RH FENDER APRON SEAL
3. REMOVE GENERATOR DRIVE BELT
(See page CH–6)
4. REMOVE PS PUMP DRIVE BELT
Loosen the 2 bolts, and remove the drive belt.
5. DISCONNECT ENGINE COOLANT RESERVOIR
HOSE FROM WATER OUTLET
6. DISCONNECT GROUND STRAP CONNECTORS
7. REMOVE RH ENGINE MOUNTING STAY, ENGINE
MOVING CONTROL ROD AND NO.2 RH ENGINE
MOUNTING BRACKET (See page EM–66)
8. REMOVE NO.2 GENERATOR BRACKET
(a) Loosen the generator pivot bolt.
(b) Remove the nut and bracket.
9. REMOVE CRANKSHAFT PULLEY
(a) Using SST, remove the pulley bolt.
SST 09213–54015 (91651–60855), 09330–00021
(b) Using SST, remove the pulley.
SST 09950–50010 (09951–05010, 09952–05010,
09953–05010, 09953–05020, 09954–05020)
10. REMOVE NO.1 TIMING BELT COVER
Remove the 4 bolts and timing belt cover.


It seems to me that all the hard work is done. Once I reached this point I would just replace the belt.

BDSL

Those are the steps if you are to remove the bottom cover. It is fair easy to remove the top cover. However, it has been a few months since I last did my timing belt and I can't remember exactly all the steps. I replaced my timing belt in 2hrs and 45 mins with basic hand tools in my garage.

tomf

I am under the impression the bottom cover must be removed before the top cover can be removed. Of course I may be mistaken. Can anyone tell the procedure? I would love to just remove the top cover to take a look at my ES300's timing belt. I replaced the timing belt on my 95 Camry which also has the 1MZ-FE Engine at 190K miles. The timing belt had been on for 90K miles. To my layman's eye it appeared to have almost zero wear.

Power6

Is there an inspection procedure for any car with a timing belt change interval? Other than "it's not ripped" I've never seen any mfr publish guidelines as to what constitutes a "worn" timing belt, or any assessment of remaining life. I own the service manuals for the 2001 ES300, I haven't seen the timing belt remaining life inspection in there maybe I missed it. I'm sure if there *were* such a procedure it would not consist of "take the cover off and look at it".

Maybe you could remove the timing belt and x-ray it, then test length, rockwell hardness and elasticity. Then you will know if that belt is still good or not. Or you could just change it and get on with your life.

MikeLex

Here is a nice video about timing belt replacement: and

ES330MD05

Nice video MikeLex. Thanks

After looking at the video, it got me thinking why couldn't they have a small opening (that could be open and closed) on the top cover to inspect the timing belt regularly?

Added later - Never mind about that small opening I mentioned. After looking under the hood carefully, it doesn't seem to be as simple as I imagined after watching the video.

tomf

LOL. Hey Power6 you are pretty funny. What do you have against people looking for obvious damage that would indicate imminent failure? Here's something to think about. How I am supposed to know a new timing belt does not have some internal flaw that will cause failure before the expected life? Should I take it to some timing belt tester before putting it on my car? What if I look at it and it has missing teeth? Am I just supposed to ignore it because its new? Suppose I look at a timing belt at 30K miles and notice it has missing teeth or is partially shredded. Ignore it? The only point I was making that it would be nice to inspect the timing belt for obvious damage without spending a couple of hours getting to the point where the belt can be seen.

While I am no expert I'm fairly confident that when Toyota recommends replacing the belt at 90K they probably don't expect timing belt failure for another 45K or more. It's just something engineers do to be on the safe side, especially when such failure would be catastrophic. Of course a belt could fail at any interval. But that's just life. Of course with my luck the belt would fail at 90001 miles which is why I always change my belts at the recommended interval.

Power6

^^Yes sir I agree wholeheartedly. Inspection is the way to make sure the belt is not so defective it will fail early. And I am sure that you are correct, Toyota engineers probably designed the belt to last half again as long. Even a few "early' timing belt failures would be a big problem, just ask VAG about the early 1.8T motors.

The point I was getting to, is that as shadetree mechanics we want to think we can take a look at something and tell if it is good or worn out. But looking at a timing belt tells you very little if it is intact. You can't see if your belt is one that will fail at 98k miles or 146k miles. So the best strategy is to just change it.

I've gone too long on a timing belt when I didn't have the money/time to change it and never had a problem. That is an option too if you know the risk you take.

msmytalon

Anyway to tell when it was last changed? I got a 95 ES300 with 240,000 miles and I have owned it for 2 years. Got it off a buddy with 190,000. He never changed the timing belt in the 2 years he had the car neither have I. What kind of cost is associated with this if you change out water pump and all that other jazz. Hoping to keep this car running but I don't want to put an engine in it

FLYAIRWHIT

My car went 310k miles on the original timing belt, before the previous owner decided to change it. I just rolled over 380k a few days ago. Apparently either they didnt change the water pump, or they used parts from napa. The water pump is making a lot of noise. Guess it is time to go ahead and change both the pump and belt! I don't recommend going more than 100k on a t belt, but it definitely has been done.