So, i noticed a different 'pitch' coming from under the hood. I'm under the impression that the alternator bearing is on its way out.

Upon looking for a new idler pulley, and tensioner - which i couldn't find on rockauto, i stumbled upon a bearing for this particular alternator.

Now to affirm my belief, SKF [the maker] has the same part number listed for the other 1mz alternators - yes, i know they're the same.

Would it be 'dumb' to buy just the bearing? It doesn't look too bad to get into the housing from a diagram i saw. It states that its 'drive end bearing' so where the belt attaches to.

What would you suggest?

I want to get on this asap, and will make a choice tomorrow. I'd like a new alternator, but damn, they've gotten pricey on these cars - 150$ for a new one... before shipping. And used as little as 30$

So a new bearing at 30$, leads me to believe its the better call overall as the alternator works fine, as it should, just the bearing.

Thanks in advance
MIKE

 

I say give it a shot. It's only $30, so if it doesn't fix the problem, at least you'll have a new bearing..

They did this on Wheeler Dealers for the E39 M5 that they bought. The job doesn't seem too difficult as long as you have a bench vice and a pulley puller.

Check it out, it's a fun show. The alternator part starts at exactly the 22 minute mark.

 

You will likely need a bearing press to do the job. Your brushes may also need to be replaced, and the commutator probably has wear grooves in it. You should verify it is the alternator, easy to do put a long screwdriver up against he body of the alternator and press it to your ear. If you have long hair, for the love of god make sure it does not get caught up in the moving parts.

 

Forgot about this trick, I should do that to mine.

 

run the car with the belt to alternator off to be sure that is what is singing

 

just get a rebuilt one and return ur old one as core. it's about $100.
much fewer things could go wrong this way,.

 

^ 250$ for a rebuilt and a 10$ core... Partsource lol

 

^ need to find better sources

 

^like...?

-filler-

 

remove and rebuild your original alternator via any alternator repair shop at your location.

 

Agree with Lexus 2000. You might have to de-solder/solder the diodes and voltage regulator as well. Sometimes not worth it.

 

If you want to replace the bearing you should do a complete overhaul of the alternator. For what its worth put a reman alternator in the car....no real sense trying to replace only some internals. The savings isn't there for how much work you would have to put in...unless you're a re-builder.
Spin the pulley's by hand without the belt on to determine if it is in fact your alternator making the noise.

 

Is there a recommended interval for alternator replacemen?
I'm on my original one at 336k miles.

 

My original just went out at 152K miles. I scored a 100 amp Bosch replacement from Rock Auto for $75. It's for a 99 Sienna, but is exactly the same as the ES300, except for being 100 amps instead of 80 amps.

 

Are there any differences at all or does it fit perfectly like the 80 amp one?