koreywill

364,098 miles. I just got back from a 2404 mile round trip to the Finger Lakes area in upstate NY and then back to southwest MO. Used 82.3 gallons of 87 octane fuel for an average of 29.22 mpg driving right at 70 mph most of the time. Gas for the whole trip averaged $2.914/gal for a total cost of $239.76. Oil level is exactly where it was when I started. The car is still a quiet, smooth riding vehicle and the best I've ever owned.

djr48312

what all have you done and at what check points? I'd imagine the spark plugs,, injectors and most sensors.

koreywill

Bought the car at 277,107 miles and would not have done that except for all the dealer repair/maintenance documentation which was pretty thorough. Since then I've done fluid drain and refills, spark plug and valve cover gaskets not too long ago, lower control arms, struts, rebuilt Denso starter, 4 oe engine mounts, tires, engine and cabin air filters, front and rear calipers and brake components, new Denso MAF sensor, oe thermostat and hoses, oe drive belts (a/c pwr steer etc), and I've only replaced one sensor: Bank 1 Sensor 1 Upstream Rear Air Fuel Ratio Sensor. I've not done all the work myself but most. Now, I'm coming up on it being time to do the timing belt/water pump R&R and I don't think I want to do that myself. Not sure what I'm going to do.

djr48312

I think you'll be fine doing the timing belt yourself with the list you provided. How much of a difference did the control arms make? I know whose bushings wear out between 125 to 175k.

koreywill

Hey djr48312! Thanks for the encouragement on the tb and wp. I think I need to read the procedures and watch the videos a whole buch more times before I decide which way to go on that.
I didn't think my front end was loose UNTIL I replace the LCR (along with all the other front end components around it). After the alignment was done the car drove straight and true and was much more responsive to minute steering changes. No wandering anymore. The bushings were pretty cracked but not all the way through. I used MOOG RK620334 and 33 from Rock Auto. Got those before I discover oe parts at amayama.com. So far so good.

djr48312

thanks for the feedback. Mines was wobbling at 60 and over and it was the inner and outer tie rods. Replaced those on a leaky steering rack. Took the wobble out. Now I have a clunk and wobble upon braking. I know my control arms were shot and ball joints. Plus the suspension too bouncy.

I'm doing all of it:
control arms and ball joints
Steering rack
steering lines
Maxpeeding rods 24 way adjustable Coilovers
Front bearings
Axles
Sway bar end links

rotor and pads done a year ago.

I want a more tight and compliant ride

will evaluate 2006 is250 rims

koreywill

Looks like a good amount of work to be done. Maybe start a new thread and keep us posted on your progress? Not sure about the bearings. ORO has a method that has worked for me to figure out if they're bad or not: Get the wheel off the ground, spin the wheel, while avoiding moving parts grab the spring, and, if you can feel any roughness it's most likely the bearing. Good luck.

djr48312

If it's my situation with literally the entire suspension and anything around it replaced, the reason was simple. The parts are very cheap. I can get both front wheel bearings under $50. The car has 240,000 miles, so I don't care even about testing the old ones. It's getting totally freshened up suspension wise.

So while you have all that stuff off to do the struts and control arms, you may as well do the rest, instead of going back in and out to finish the next part. I want a very tight and complaint ride and to be able to have control on the road.

koreywill

Hard to disagree with your logic. Good luck!

BillDwall

227767 on a 2000 ES300.... Everything is OG

Cartakuu

My 2002 es300 has 302600 on the clock. Just need to do both o2 sensors and fix a power steering leak. This is how she looks

​​​​​