When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
When I intended to replace the TPS, one man said that my vehicle problem due to ECU losing its data, due to battery replacement, then I need to make ECU relearn. Is this true?
When you disconnect the battery, you are resetting ECU to default settings, meaning that if you've had any errors or driving habits that the ECU was accustomed to, disconnecting the battery will erase all that data and start its setup again.
With that said, it is not the reason for your Check Engine light, your error is repeatable, meaning that pops-up after each reset, which in turn means that there is something that triggers your CE light.
The best way to check it is to erase your existing code with the scan tool; if this code will pop up again, it would signify that there is a different kind of issue.
It is so complicated now. That without TPS replacement, I followed the guide of a man to make the ECU re-learn the throttle ( something like: on to IGN then off for 2 times, pull to D then R etc..., drive the vehicle at 45 - 55MPH speed ....).
After this process, I reset the trip to 0 and drive for about 18 miles: the vehicle showed the Check Engine light ON. I thought it is time to replace TPS I have bought. But after check OBD-2 error code, it is not P0510 like before but it showed P0135 now.
That is great that your P0510 went away! Just keep an eye on it, and if it will pop up again, try to re-adjust the sensor before you will actually toast it. And keep your new sensor for a tad bit longer, until you will make sure that the issue is gone.
About P0135 - that is the code that you have to experience at some point, especially with older vehicles - it means that a Bank 1 Sensor 1 heater element is malfunctioning. It is really easy to test - just disconnect your sensor and measure the continuity between two black wires, if there is none, unfortunately you will have to replace the Oxygen Sensor, its part number is written on it.
A bit about oxygen sensors - be very cautious when buying OEM parts off of eBay, it should be explicitly written that it is a Toyota part, if it says DENSO, and there is an OEM box on photos, it means that it is a fluke.
About P0135 - that is the code that you have to experience at some point, especially with older vehicles - it means that a Bank 1 Sensor 1 heater element is malfunctioning. It is really easy to test - just disconnect your sensor and measure the continuity between two black wires, if there is none, unfortunately you will have to replace the Oxygen Sensor, its part number is written on it.
Hope this helps and best of luck!
Do you mean that I will disconnect the socket of the sensor the n check 2 black wires. If the 2 wires is disconnected, it means that the sensor is broken?
I have another question is that why the obd-2 test showed both of O2 Sensor and O2 Sensor Heater are completed ! And OBD-2 showed O2 bank1 and bank 2 still have good voltages.
I have another question is that why the obd-2 test showed both of O2 Sensor and O2 Sensor Heater are completed ! And OBD-2 showed O2 bank1 and bank 2 still have good voltages.
The thing is that there are two elements to the Oxygen sensor - the sensing element and the heater coil that is wrapped around the sensor. O2 Sensor cannot function properly while cold, so it needs a heater to warm it up. That is exactly what your issue is - while the sensor is perfectly fine, your heater doesn't work, hence why it may need to be replaced.
About the readiness monitor - that is a good question, it should not be complete, but I don't think it will last long.
The easiest way to tell what is wrong is to measure the heater's continuity - if it's there, the sensor is working, if it's not, the sensor is toasted. Simple as that.
For an hour I still can not find the O2 Bank 1 sensor following your guide
Can you help me to link the location of O2 bank 1 sensor with TPS location, it is easy for me to locate it.
For example, from TPS location then down/or up how many inches, then left/right how many inches, then back/front how many inches.
Connector with three wires that you see on the very top of that picture is TPS. The photo is taken from the right side of the vehicle, right before the firewall
Locate the exhaust manifold right underneath the intake plenum, then take a picture of it and post it here. The sensor is deeper than it seems, I need to lie on the engine to reach it with my hand.
Lie on the engine, my right hand reached the O2 connector ( if it is true in the above photo) but I can not pull the socket out !!! Sure I have press something to pull out but not know now. Search to see how the female and male sockets connect but can not find.
Is the harness of sensor bank 2 (easy to locate to see) the same with the harness of sensor bank 1?
Yes, it is indeed an O2 sensor that you need.
About the connector - it is a bit tricky to disconnect it, the connector itself should sit on the clip (which in my case is broken), you need to follow the wire up to the connector and then try to lean on the engine and reach it from both sides of the intake plenum; the tab with red dot on the connector needs to be pressed in order to release the sensor. And do not try to unscrew that bolt to the right of the clip, that won't help.
Connector on the front O2 sensor is identical to the one on the back in the way they disconnect, but they are different in their shape, meaning that you won't be able to connect the sensor from the back to the connector on the front, at least on the newer engine..
Lying on the engine, I reached the connector with both hand, one hand to press one side of the harness and one hand pull the connector out, but they are stuck. Without knowing exactly how they connected, can not release them.
Another question is that what the sensor is good for replacement. I internet search and see a lot of branches. Any proposal?
Did you press on the tab? They could sometimes cease together and require quite a bit of force to disconnect. Try taking a picture of your connector, there is enough room to do so.
As for the replacement - I wouldn't recommend running to dealer (or as it is commonly referred here as stealer), because it is way too expensive (I was charged $278.59 without tax for it). In the same manner, I would not recommend going with cheap eBay's OEM-ish parts (ask me how I know); I mean you can buy parts off of eBay, but you need to pay really close attention to the manufacturer graph in the ad - if you see an OEM box on photos, and the ad says that it was built by DENSO, or even worse, Unbranded, it is most likely a fluke and should be avoided at all costs.
I think the best solution will be to go with DENSO or NTK sensor - those are Toyota's OEM suppliers, and those are a fraction of the cost. Here are a few that should fit your car: NTK 24594, DENSO 234-4623; and just for kicks and giggles here is an OEM equivalent. There is no real difference between them, just pick one that you like better..
01-18-20, 12:52 PM
