When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I have a 1995 Lexus ES 300 and it doesn't shift from first to second until about 3000 RPM. I know some cars have a built in feature to protect the transmission while it is still cold by hold out the first intial shift. Not sure if this car has that or not. But I drove the car all for about 2 hours straight it 100 degree heat so I know the transmission had to be warmed up. ECT light is off and working as well. So what could cause this?
Took it to the tranny shop and to my surprise the the car was skipping second gear all together.
Anyone know which shift solenoid controls the car to shift from first to second.
I have a 1995 Lexus ES 300 and it doesn't shift from first to second until about 3000 RPM. I know some cars have a built in feature to protect the transmission while it is still cold by hold out the first intial shift. Not sure if this car has that or not. But I drove the car all for about 2 hours straight it 100 degree heat so I know the transmission had to be warmed up. ECT light is off and working as well. So what could cause this?
My 95 ES300 stuttered and stopped.
Thinking it might be a fuel problem, checked fuel pump; Working
Checked fuel filter, fuel line; Clear
Engine will start with a spray of starting fluid, but start only; Doesn't continue running.
I do not have a book to refer to so?
I did connect a scan tool; No codes
I'm thinking Relay. I've heard terms like,( Electronic Fuel Injection Relay), (Circuit Open Relay).
When I went looking for the fuel pump relay, I found it labeled on the lid of a relay box under the hood and nothing was there
There was a plug molded into the box but no metal connectors there in... I have a multi meter!
Just not real sure where or what to do next?
Help!
My 95 ES300 started but can not accelerate. It only runs at very low speed and can not pass a small slope.
The time before it runs well, and now some times it runs well, sometimes it has the above problem.
What is the problem with my car and what to do next? Thanks for any advice
Does your car start right away?
Any Check Engine lights?
Does your engine RPM go up when you step on the accelerator, or just stays like nothing happened?
Does your engine choke or stall on the acceleration?
It is really hard to answer an unspecific question. Please try to describe your situation a bit better..
Does your car start right away?
Any Check Engine lights?
Does your engine RPM go up when you step on the accelerator, or just stays like nothing happened?
Does your engine choke or stall on the acceleration?
It is really hard to answer an unspecific question. Please try to describe your situation a bit better..
Many thank for your help. Month ago, my car is normal. After 3 days parking, I start but it did not start engine. After a while with many tries, the engine started and I drove it for my works. When I was on the way back home, it stopped. I started and can not accelerate the engine.
The "check engine' light of my car has lit for a long time ago, but it does not cause any problem. Someone said that it lit due to the smoke filter failed, but the vehicle still runs well so far.
In the case of the problem, when I start the engine, the RPM needle turn - I do not remember the number the needle points to on the clock, (I will check and let you know) but it turns up to around 30 degree. Then if I press accelerator more, the engine louder but the needle still in the same position.
I replaced the gas filter, checked the timing belt but all are in good condition.
Now the car runs well but I dare not drive because I'm afraid it may have problem and stop suddenly on the way. One problem now is it is does connect and communicate with my OBD-II tester.
From the top of my head, I could suggest to check some common issues, like diagnosing the Throttle Position Sensor, Oxygen Sensor, and Mass Airflow Sensor. Also look for the lose tubes, hissing sounds (vacuum leaks), stuff like that.
Then if I press accelerator more, the engine louder but the needle still in the same position.
Did the car choke? Did you notice any excessive vibration? Was it stalling?
If it is an injector or spark plug related issue, the car should have started to misfire, which would have caused it to vibrate (it is really hard to not notice it).
Also, what do you mean the OBD-II scanner doesn't work? Did it work before? Do you have any electrical issues with your car? Try visiting the local O'Reilly or AutoZone, they usually scan the Check Engine light for free. If that won't work, the only thing that I could suggest is to visit the local Lexus or Toyota dealer and ask them to do the same...
Also, what do you mean the OBD-II scanner doesn't work? Did it work before? Do you have any electrical issues with your car?
Three months ago, I smoke-checked my vehicle and OBD-II is communicated with diagnostic device. But now auto repair shop told me that OBD-II port did not communicate to his diagnostic device.
For 1995 lexus es300, where are the locations of sensors?
First of all, how to repair OBD-2 to make it communicate?
Is the Check Engine light on when you turn the key to the run position? If the OBD-II port doesn't work, and the Check Engine light is off in the run position, it can indicate a bad ECU, which could be the source of your issues..
All of those sensors are pretty easy to locate - MAF sensor is located on the air filter box, TPS sensor is located right on the throttle body, and O2 sensors are located on each of the exhaust manifold. Don't be fooled by a Toyota Camry emblems, since Camry and ES300 are mechanically the same cars.
From the top of my head, I could suggest to check some common issues, like diagnosing the Throttle Position Sensor, Oxygen Sensor, and Mass Airflow Sensor. Also look for the lose tubes, hissing sounds (vacuum leaks), stuff like that.
Did the car choke? Did you notice any excessive vibration? Was it stalling?
If it is an injector or spark plug related issue, the car should have started to misfire, which would have caused it to vibrate (it is really hard to not notice it).
Also, what do you mean the OBD-II scanner doesn't work? Did it work before? Do you have any electrical issues with your car? Try visiting the local O'Reilly or AutoZone, they usually scan the Check Engine light for free. If that won't work, the only thing that I could suggest is to visit the local Lexus or Toyota dealer and ask them to do the same...
Hope this helps and best of luck!
Originally Posted by Arsenii
Hello,
Is the Check Engine light on when you turn the key to the run position? If the OBD-II port doesn't work, and the Check Engine light is off in the run position, it can indicate a bad ECU, which could be the source of your issues..
All of those sensors are pretty easy to locate - MAF sensor is located on the air filter box, TPS sensor is located right on the throttle body, and O2 sensors are located on each of the exhaust manifold. Don't be fooled by a Toyota Camry emblems, since Camry and ES300 are mechanically the same cars.
Hope this helps and best of luck!
Without any work, my car OBD-2 is OK now, it received no error code
It seems like everything is fine.. There are questions about an O2 sensors, but that is a minor detail and would probably set after some while.
About a Check Engine light - it resets itself each time you disconnect the battery, so that may be the reason why it is not showing up..
Try going for a little ride and see if everything is alright.. If the issue is still presented, you should see it on your scan tool. Also, ask someone to assist you just in case if you would get stuck.
What are the problem with catalyst , O2 + O2 heater and EGR system ? They are incomplete !!!
BTW, in O2 Volts Bank 1 and Bank 2, the test showed sensor 1 and sensor 2 having voltage, but sensor 3 and 4 have nothing. I really do not know the meaning
I will wait until the Check Engine light appears again and recheck with OBD2 tool. Because I'm not familiar to auto repair, can you help me the location of the sensors. I need to check them before a little driving.
Many thanks if anyone shows me where the sensors are in these below photos:
From the left side:
It is a great thing you have voltage coming from sensors, it means that they are working. Just make sure that it stays between 0.2 - 0.7-ish volts and it is not stuck at one value, it should fluctuate as you drive.
Incomplete in your case probably means that they are not set, it does not necessarily mean that they are bad. Sensor not set means that the computer didn't run the test on it yet. You need to drive for a while for it to go out.
Also, your car is 25 years old, it will not have all 4 sensors, probably only two, which already work. My 2000 Lexus ES300 has 3 O2 sensors, but mine is a California spec (You can tell by an emission sticker on your hood).
About sensors' location - they should be located on each of the exhaust manifolds on either side of an engine (see pictures below).
The third sensor in my car is located under the car, past the third catalyst. If you really want to, you can look for a third sensor connector under the driver's seat (don't mind leaks in my pictures, they are from bad valve cover gaskets. I am planning on replacing those at some point).
Bank 2 Sensor 1, located on the front exhaust manifold. In front of it is a radiator, behind is a transmission.
Bank 1 Sensor 1 is on that side, deep underneath the intake.
Bank 1 Sensor 1, located on the back of the exhaust manifold. The side with the wire on it faces the firewall, right above it is the intake.
Bank 1 Sensor 3, located underneath the car, right past the third catalyst. The wire goes in the interior, underneath the driver's seat.
Bank 1 Sensor 3's wire goes in the interior, right above the driver side vent dock.
I think you are all set for the test drive, but again, just in case, grab someone who can tow you back home, just a safety precaution.
P.S. It seems like you are low on coolant, check your reservoir - with the cold engine it should be filled to the "Cold" mark, and yours is almost empty.. Just fill it back up and keep an eye for leaks.
Arsenii, you really help me step by step recover my vehicle. Two repair shops refused to fix it. So I have to do it myself. I had a 10 miles drive test this afternoon and see no problem. In this case can I conclude that the sensors are OK?
I also ordered 6 spark plugs and will replace the old ones. I doubt that the sensors are ok but the wiring has problem. Can the wiring sometimes has a bad/loosing contact somewhere and cause the problem?. But it is difficult to check the wiring if I do not know what fault part/section causing the vehicle not accelerate. What cause the vehicle can not accelerate?
- If O2 sensor had a bad wiring: computer sends more or less fuel than necessary to the combustion chamber?
- If throttle sensor wire disconnect: what happen?
What do you mean the wiring has a problem? Did you get any Check Engine lights while driving?
In order to set sensors, you need to follow a specific drive pattern (see the attached file).
You can also try flooring it, since that will definitely show you if something is wrong..
It is a great idea to replace the spark plugs, especially if they are original.
Let me know if you'll get any other issues and best of luck!
08-04-12, 05:19 PM
1995 Lexus ES300
