RSpi

One of my customers has a '05 Lexus ES330 with about 135,000 on the clock. I don't think the timing belt has ever been replaced. Is the timing belt job a DIY thing or is it to hard to do in the drive way under the tree?

Is there some instructions on-line that can guide me through the process?

hzt30

The timing belt should have been changed around 90,000 miles. This can be done in the driveway as long as weather permits. You should also replace the following:

Water Pump
Cam seals
Crank Seal
Tensioner
2 Idler Pulley's
P/S and Accesory Belts
Thermostate/Gasket
Antifreeze

The following shows a timing belt change on a 2000 ES300 but does not include changing of the seals:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DI60MOkf168:

hypervish

IMHO, No offense, but if you have to ask if the timing belt is a DIY job then you probably shouldn't be doing it.

speedkar9

Wow, just in time. I was actually going to DIY my 05 ES330 timing belt and water-pump this weekend....

Check this video out to give you an idea of whats involved:

Here's another video on how it was done on a 3rd gen ES:


I also found this thread useful.

All of these reference the 1MZ-FE, however the 3MZ-FE is similar. Here's a DIY on the 3MZ-FE:
http://www.brakeandfrontend.com/issu...ontentid=97022

The service manual also has a good breakdown of the engine for timing belt replacement.

Order the Aisin kit from RockAuto. Its like $180 and comes with the tensioner, idler pulley, tensioner pulley, timing belt and waterpump.

kakarot

98 ES300 just got done with mine I replace my at 175k I will post some photo up pretty soon.
I also replace these item while I'm at it, these are the original parts and never been replace.

1. inner tie rod (PITA to do very little space to work with, removing is easy, putting it back was hard due to
Inner boot cover tie strap and the inner claw washer by bending the side to lock.)
2. Outer tie rod (very easy)
2. Ball joint (What a PITA to do you must removed the spindle off to do the tie rod due to the tie rod nut there is no way to fit a wrench to the nut.
3. Front struts (easy to do)
4. back cover valve ( PITA again tight space to removed)
5. Front valve cover (easy)

Any question I will try to answer you the best I can.

Here are the photos I was lazy for writing the how to, these photos are to be used as a guide and they are all in sequence of order.
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/crrnau2qf7ib257/dbKmWwZ8wL

speedkar9

Here's the 3MZ-FE engine manual:

Timing belt replacement.

Waterpump replacement.

RSpi

Thanks guys, I appreciate the input. I'll look over the info and try to help my customer out.

@ hypervish: Man, some jobs require special took, lifts, two people, etc. I've never looked into doing a belt on a ES330 and when I looked around here I couldn't find any evidance that other's were doing it so I thought I'd ask. I've done timing belts on Volvo 850's, S70's, 960's, S90's and Honda Accords. I've done a head on a Volvo (in an apartment parking lot) and a Volvo 850 evaporator (in an apartment parking lot). Just letting you know that I have turned a few wrenches, just know that the engine bay in that ES330 looked real tight and wasn't sure if special tools or equipment was needed. I'm a person that proceeds with caution and didn't want to tell them I could do something for X amount of money, then run into a situation where I needed to purchase a $250 tool to finish the job.

Other than that, I do appreciate and value the use of these forms. Since I'm a Volvo guy, I hang out on those forums more. I'm a moderator on one, with over 10,000 post, mostly post to help others. Most people come to these forums because they simply can not afford to pay a mechanic $1,300 to get a timing belt replaced and sometimes loose a good car because they can not afford upkeep maintenance. I know I can't afford to pay $1,200 to get a belt changed.

One lady that I'd like to help was recently abandoned by her husband and now her and her son is living with her aunt. She could not afford to get a car on her own so her dad signed for a car ($10,500 for a car with a $7,500 NADA Value), SMH. Then she calls me to look at the stereo and there is no evidance that the tb has ever been done at 127,000 miles. Belt, waiting for a place to break. Sealer and local VW indi both want over $1,200 for the job. The lady is now working 2 jobs and trying to get on her feet. $1,200 on top of other living expenses is a nice chunk.

Me... well, I'm not employable due to my wife's illness. Can't leave her for more than a couple of hours at a time so I do ODD jobs to help keep the water on.

There you have it, why I'm glad they (the internet gods that be) allow us to link information on websites like these. Hurrah!!! I don't have to move into the woods and kill my food.

RSpi

@ SpeedKar9: Man, let me know how it goes. How many miles do you have on your car? Has the belt ever been changed?

hypervish

It's hard to tell how experienced someone is over the internet, which is why I said what I did earlier. You should have included your experience in your original post, but no worries you should be able to handle it. There aren't any special tools needed.

RSpi

No problem. I threw my offer out there. I'll likely do it for less than what I said. I like to under promise and over deliver.

speedkar9

Well, I tried changing the timing belt and waterpump on my 3MZ-FE 2005 ES330 this weekend.

It was going okay, but took a lot longer than I expected. That crank pulley bolt was very hard to take out, even the bump-starter method did not work! I ended up buying a 3/4" impact to remove it.



Once open, the timing belt looked very worn, with a brownish powder coating the insides of the timing covers . The water-pump showed signs of leakage. It was definitely the original belt and pump. Mileage is 185,000KM.
I had to take the front cam off to slide the #3 timing cover up just enough so the water pump can be slid out, since I failed at taking the WP studs out.



I had to take the front cam off to slide the #3 timing cover up just enough so the water pump can be slid out, since I failed at taking the WP studs out.



I replaced the idler and tensioner pulley's and the hydraulic tensioner. Put the belt back on and turned the crank clockwise about half a turn in an attempt to re-check my timing marks. Then boom! My idler pulley's bolt broke and the pulley went flying!



I gave up and towed it to the shop. Mechanic said I tightened the bolts way too tight. My waterpump bolts and nuts were also too tight and leaked. All 6 of them snapped upon removal.

Turns out I read the wrong torque spec units from the manual. Well, I definitly learned my lession... the hard way

vesnyder

What is a fair price to have these done?

JSM

Speedkar9, that sucks.

Too really hold the cam gears properly you will need a spanner wrench. Especially if you want to re-torque it. If you're not going to due the cam seals you can skip the tool.

If you don't have 3/4 impact that crank pulley bolt is a bear. I don't have one myself and $65 for the Schely tool is cheaper than impact gun big time.

speedkar9

I bought a camshaft holding tool. It wasn't enough to stop the cams from rotating when trying to undo the cam bolt. I ended up holding a 10mm socket on one of the timing cover #3 bolts to hold the cam from rotating through its spokes.

Also- new timing belt was a PITA to put on. Seemed like there was too much tension (although I hadn't actuated the hydraulic tensioner yet) in the new belt. Mechanic said the trick is to remove the hydraulic tensioner to allow the tensioner pulley to drop down a bit and give the belt a bit more slack. Does this sound right?

RSpi

I guess that would work if you are trying to get the belt on. Once the belt is on, the tension shouldn't be that tight.

Sorry to read that you torqued those bolts down to tight. I was hoping that you would succeed without any hitches. My customer hasn't gotten back with me yet, her mom is on her death bead with cancer so she's very distracted. She has about 140,000 miles on the car which is about 225,000 km's. I'm really afraid that the belt wont last much longer. I have a VW customer in the same boat. The VW has about 130,000 miles.

I'll return to update this thread if I get to do it.