1993 ES300 Ignition Timing
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Anyone know what the problem could be? Tried to get the car smogged and it wouldnt pass in both california and nevada. We had the oil changed and transmission rebuilt. Does it mean the timing belt jumped a few notches or does it mean just the timing needs to be adjusted via full tune up? Car runs great but gets kinda bad gas mileage.
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Ignition timing and camshaft timing (timing belt related) are two different things. What does the smog test say?
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I have the service manual for the '93 ES300, which I also drive. I haven't done this personally, so it's for info only. Toyota/Lexus used the 3VZFE engine, with distributor, until '94, so the timing is adjustable as on older conventional ignition systems, by loosening the distributor hold-down bolts and turning the distributor body. The FSM procedure is: (1) Connect tachometer test probe to terminal IG (-) in the DCL1 (the service test box in front of the wiper motor I think), (2) check idle speed (should be about 700RPM), (3) Connect terminals TE1 and E1 of the DCL1, (4) Use a timing light to check the timing, at the crankshaft pulley (like conventional ignitions, with timing mark, etc.). Timing should be 10 degrees BTDC at idle. I think you could use the instrument cluster tach to verify the idle speed, then just jump the terminals TE1 and E1 to set to spec. Without the terminals jumped, timing should vary or move up and down from 10 to 20 degrees. Hope this helps.
#6
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On and in neutral on a level surface. I can never get a reading on these dipsticks due to the vibrations from the engine obscuring the level of the fluid on the dipstick though. I just have the local garage mechanic check it for free. As to when to check, anytime I guess for peace of mind, or if it seems like it's not shifting properly or slipping (which would probably be more $eriou$ than low fluid on this car IMO).
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#8
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OK, I just finished timing check on my '93 ES300. It's a pain.
1. remove the washer fluid jug (don't disconnect wiring or hoses), set aside to see better.
2. I used a tiny paint brush taped to a piece of wire to dab the little tab sticking out opposite the 10 degree mark on the engine timing plate. I used white out (typewriter correction fluid).
3. Same deal to paint/highlight notch in the pulley. Took 1/2 hour to bump the starter to get the notch in view.
4. Timing light beam is VERY HARD to line up with marks, kind of point through the alternator bracket area, but eventually I could just see the pulley mark, thankfully spot on opposite the 10 degree BTDC mark, tach at about 700rpm, TE1 and E1 jumped with a piece of wire.
5. If adjustment is needed, there are 2 bolts to loosen at the distributor, the right one (facing the back of the engine) is only visible using a mirror, and both are awkward to turn.
1. remove the washer fluid jug (don't disconnect wiring or hoses), set aside to see better.
2. I used a tiny paint brush taped to a piece of wire to dab the little tab sticking out opposite the 10 degree mark on the engine timing plate. I used white out (typewriter correction fluid).
3. Same deal to paint/highlight notch in the pulley. Took 1/2 hour to bump the starter to get the notch in view.
4. Timing light beam is VERY HARD to line up with marks, kind of point through the alternator bracket area, but eventually I could just see the pulley mark, thankfully spot on opposite the 10 degree BTDC mark, tach at about 700rpm, TE1 and E1 jumped with a piece of wire.
5. If adjustment is needed, there are 2 bolts to loosen at the distributor, the right one (facing the back of the engine) is only visible using a mirror, and both are awkward to turn.
Last edited by donbryce; 11-25-12 at 06:23 AM.
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