nicks88

Hey all. Since I have been helped so much by this forum, I thought I would give back. I just finished replacing the steering rack bushings on my 1996 ES300. Due to the fact that I could not find a write up on this anywhere, I wanted to go ahead and tell you all what I learned so maybe it will help someone else out in the future. If you have any questions let me know, as I am doing this write up after I finished. These directions are for replacing the steering rack bushing without removing the entire steering rack. Good luck. Let me know if you see anything that would make this easier.

I recommend replacing the sway bar bushings, and sway bar end links as well, since you will have to take them all apart anyway. And the struts if you are really feeling ambitious.

Ok here it goes. Enjoy:

Tools needed:
-Set of ratchets and sockets in 1/4", 3/8" and 1/2" drive.
-Metric sockets - you will need a 19" socket for the steering rack/frame bolt.
-tie rod removal tool
-metric end wrenches
-5 mm hex socket
-Pry bar
-3/8" and 1/2" torque wrench
-Blue locktite
-lots of lighting
-12"-20" of ratchet extensions
-Can of PB Blast
-WD-40
-Floor jack
-Jack stands
-Breaker bar
-Cheater bar
-“Channel Lock” Straight jaw pliers
-Needle Nose pliers
-ALCOHOL OF CHOICE
-LOTS OF PATIENCE

Parts you will need:
-Steering rack bushing (Part # K9892 at Oreilly's auto parts [Moog brand])
-Sway bar bushings (Part # FA7499 at Autozone)
-Sway bar end links (Part # SL243 at Autozone)


1. Jack up the car as high as you can. Secure with jack stands and remove wheels.
2. Remove cotter pin from tie rod end.
3. Using a 14mm socket, and breaker bar, remover tie rod end nut.
4. Using tie rod puller tool, (found at harbor freight tools for $10), separate tie rod end from steering knuckle.
5. Locate sway bar end links
6. You will need the 5mm hex socket and an end wrench. The nuts on the end links are 14mm if you still have the stock Lexus end links. The replacement links I bought from Autozone, had a 15mm nut.
http://s1277.beta.photobucket.com/us...tml?sort=3&o=2
7. Place the end wrench on the nut.
8. Take your 5mm hex socket, and place it in the end of the bolt to keep the bolt from turning as you are loosening the nut.
http://s1277.beta.photobucket.com/us...tml?sort=3&o=1
9. Remove end links.
10. Locate the sway bar mount brackets. Place matchmarks on the sway bar next to the brackets, so you can have a better time lining up the brackets when you re-install. The bolts that are closest to the firewall are tight and you will need a 12mm end wrench to get to these. The other bolts you can use a small 12mm socket. Remover bolts from both sway bar bushing brackets.
11. You should be able to move the sway bar back and forth now. This is necessary to get to the bolt holding the steering rack to the chassis.
12. Remove the bolts from the front exhaust bracket, and the middle exhaust bracket. I had to do this to fit my ratchet in there. You don’t need to remove the exhaust completely, just remove these bolts so you can push the exhaust pipe out of the way.
13. Now, there is a nut holding a bracket for one of the steering rack fluid lines, which is connected to the steering rack bracket. I could only reach this from the top of the car, hence the extensions. It is a 12mm nut. Easy to remove.

Now the fun begins

1. Locate the 19mm bolt that is holding the steering rack to the chassis (passenger side). You will NOT need to remove the bolt from the driver’s side of the steering rack.
2. The nut on the other side of the bolt is designed so you do not have to have a wrench on it to remove the bolt. (Hallelujah… Finally something easy)
3. Place match marks on the steering rack where the bracket is so you can line it up for re-installation.
4. This will take some patience. I sprayed a crap load of PB blast and let it sit for 30 min before I removed the bolt. I used my ˝” drive ratchet, a cheater bar on the end of the ratchet, and lots of patience.
5. The bolt has thread locker on it from the factory. This will be a pain in the *** to remove. You will see once you are underneath. I did use a lot of force and eventually it broke loose.
6. Remove bolt, and reach in and grab the nut that fell off after you removed the bolt.
7. You should be able to just lift out the steering rack bracket from the housing now. Take a piece of wood, and wedge it between the rack and the cross member to hold the rack up while you work with the bracket and bushing.
8. Carefully twist the bracket so you can get to the clasp at the bottom.
9. Use a screw driver to pry the clasp open.
http://s1277.beta.photobucket.com/us...tml?sort=3&o=0
10. Remove brass bushing that houses the bolt
11. Remove old steering rack bushing. (I had to use a box knife and cut mine out.)
12. Grab your new steering rack bushing. The bushing will not have an “easy install” cut in it. I cut mine so I could wrap it around the steering rack. Otherwise you will have to remove the tie rod ends and rack boots to get the new rack bushing on. I didn’t have the time or patience to do this.
13. Soak the bushing in wd-40, so it will slide into the bracket easier. This was a pain as well to get the bushing into the bracket. Just have to work at it, take a break if needed if you get frustrated. Beer is your friend here. Especially if you are on your back under the car.
14. Once the bushing is all the way in, install the brass bolt housing into the bracket
15. Using your channel locks and a flat head screw driver, close the bracket clasp.
16. Rotate the bracket, and line it up with your match mark and seat it into the bracket housing on the chassis. You may have to lift the steering rack up and work it in. If it won’t go in, take your flat head screw driver and make sure the brass bolt housing is seated into the bracket correctly. 2 people may be needed. My wife helped hold the steering rack up with a pry bar while I worked it in.
17. Hard part is done.
18. Insert bracket bolt into the hole. From the other side, get the nut started. Apply a drop of blue thread lock to the threads.
19. Tighten the heck out of it now. Torque to 134 ft-lbs.
20. Go ahead and install the bolts for your exhaust that you removed earlier since you are already under the car.
21. Line up your sway bar so you can install your end links. Install the new end links, but don’t tighten the bolts all the way. Just put them on enough to keep the end links from falling off. If the end links will not line up, you can move the bolt in the end links up and down. Since they are new, this will take some muscle. You will see what I mean when you do this.
22. Line up and install the sway bar brackets and your new bushings. Tighten the bolts down good. I recommend getting the bolts closest to the firewall going first, as they are the hardest bolts to get to. Tighten the bolts down evenly, and really well.
23. Move to your end links now.
24. Put your end wrench on the nut, as well as your 5mm hex socket into the bolt end. Tighten the nuts, making sure that you keep the bolt from turning (using the 5mm hex)
25. Torque these bolts to 14 ft-lbs
26. Install the tie rod end into the steering knuckle. Tighten nut to secure tie rod end.
27. Torque nut to 36 ft-lbs
28. Install cotter pins
29. Last, re-install the nut to the bracket that holds the steering rack fluid line to the steering rack bushing bracket. (See step 13 for reference)

Clean up your mess, and make sure there are NO left over nuts/bolts. Put your wheels back on, lower your car, and go for a joy ride.

Replacing these bushings made a HUGE difference on my 195k mile ES. I am sure that all the bushings and end links were original. I did my struts 6 months ago, but if you have the means, do this as well. I would suggest an alignment after this, but that is up to you. Hope this helps anyone. Feel free to get a hold of me for any questions. I am more than happy to help. HAPPY WRENCHING!!

donmcc

Thanks for the write up on replacing the bushings. I am going to tackle this problem next week end. I plan to inspect the bushings and replace. hopefully I will not have to replace the rack but I will if necessary. I have had my ES300 (94) about 4 yrs now with over 200k miles. Steering has got to have work done. The looseness is getting dangerous. Plus, I just want my "factory grade" steering back. The car is a real joy to drive when it is right
I will post my results on the bushing install results when I get them in. Thanks again for the post.

jrcartero

I have a 97 ES300. There are 2 bushings on the steering rack. This write up covers the "grommet" on the passenger side of the car, however if you have side to side movement on your rack, as I did, then the driver side bushing is the issue. I have some pictures to add to this thread to help the next guy out.

the driver side bushing is an aftermarket part because Lexus does not stock it. They consider it to be part of the rack. If you've already removed the passenger side "grommet" or bushing as we like to call it, then just use the same tools and remove the bolt holding the driver side bushing in place. You will have to bend one side of the metal bolt housing in order to slide it out of the rack. I used some wire cutters and tin snips to bend the flanged end that faces the front of the car, in order to slide it out of the hole. I also used a pry bar to lift the rack out of the bracket that is mounted to the frame to allow room for the metal bolt housing to slide out.

Also I did not remove the passenger side housing for the grommet. Instead I removed the boot on the end of the rack and slid the housing towards the wheel and cut the grommet out. I will replace the boot zip tie with a new one when I re install it.

http://i1380.photobucket.com/albums/...psonn0h0ua.jpg
http://i1380.photobucket.com/albums/...pslxqseitl.jpg
http://i1380.photobucket.com/albums/...psbvngpmwh.jpg
http://i1380.photobucket.com/albums/...psyjbavsau.jpg
http://i1380.photobucket.com/albums/...pspytgmexq.jpg
http://i1380.photobucket.com/albums/...psrrxyq3u5.jpg

squirrel09

I have a 97 es300 with over 200k miles on it too. Very good car, but lately my steering is insanely bad! I literally have like 2inches of play b4it actually catches the turn. Very dangerous and frustrating. I've gotten under the car to fix it twice now with noooo progess at removing those bolts. I've tried a breaker bar, I've soaked it in pb, wd, degreaser,etc. Nothing, I've even put a torch to it and still not a budge. So I'm pretty fed up with it. For the past 6months I've had to replace manny parts on it , out of no where she's just falling apart do to old age, wear and tear. But so far, this is my most frustrating. And it should be more than simple for all the things I've done to it so far.... Any*****, so I've been thinking, what if i were to put my own set of clamps next to the bushing mounts. Like, buy a rubber boot that'll fit around the rack, and a clamp that i could tighten, and have it screwed on to the chaise that's below the rack. I've tried to stuff stuff in between those two, to try to stiffen the rack from moving side to side. Helped for a little time but apparently feel out. Lol ... Anyone have any other ideas or think I'm just thinking to much into it? Thx

jrcartero

If you can keep the rack from sliding back and forth with a clamp, then you have basically accomplished what the bolt and grommet on the driver side of the car do. I was thinking you could try some metal tie wraps and wrap them around the rack and frame. Problem is whether they will stay in place.

squirrel09

Just a update on my theory... Used those metal hose clamps that you can tighten by screwing the screw on it. 4, 2on the left side and2on the right side Annnd woohaalaa... Lol /: it's not top notch handling but it's not at all as bad as it had been. This is just temporarily tho. Until i could find someone to be able to undo those bolts, this is going to have to do.

surgeon0

Is there a quick test to check if these need replacing?

squirrel09

By just turning your steering wheel...lol. No really, if you have play or lots of slack in the steering. Youcould possibly have bad bushings. But that's just one of many other causes of loose steering. But i mean if you can steer your car normally, then you have no reason to worry.

surgeon0

Cool. lol. When chasing vibrations, this would be another check to add too.

surgeon0

Adding this bit of info to this thread that might be good in troubleshooting. Seems to be a good place for it.

96 Es300 excessive play in steering
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/es-...-steering.html

jrcartero

Locate the rack under your car and have someone turn the steering wheel side to side. U will see the rack move side to side about 1 inch if the driver side bushing is bad. If the rack moves up and down, then the passenger side bushing is bad. There should be no movement at all.

surgeon0

Thank you jrcartero. Good info.

ProfPlum

Resurrecting this old thread because it contains information I consider crucial that I haven't seen anywhere else. The Youtube videos I've seen, when they go to pull the bushing out, it just slides out with ease. I was stumped initially when I lifted up the rack a couple inches and saw metal flanges on both sides of the bushing that were larger than the bushing hole meaning there was no chance it was coming out with easy. I'm betting this is the OEM bushing. I think it would require a special tool to get it pressed together.

I had to do the same thing he did (see below in bold) sort of. I used dykes to bend the front flange inward the best I could, then used vice grips to smash them inward the best I could. I then had to use my dremel with a tiny 1/2" cutting wheel from Harbor Freight to cut the tips of the folded over corners. Lots to avoid cutting or slicing, so it was slow going. Had I seen his comment, I would have tried to use my tin snips too. Clearance is tight, but I think my snips would have fit in there.

This is what his thread said:

"You will have to bend one side of the metal bolt housing in order to slide it out of the rack. I used some wire cutters and tin snips to bend the flanged end that faces the front of the car, in order to slide it out of the hole

His first picture in the quote above shows his front bushing flange crumpled up.




After removal, I put my vice grips on the shaft of the bushing and discovered the bushing would separate, but not sure it's possible to do under the car on your back. Grabbing the back flange of the bushing (the flange that was closer to the rear of the car) with my vice grips and then grabbing the crumpled front flange with my large pliers, I was able to twist it out. It's not threaded. Just very tightly pressed.

I thought getting that out would be the final challenge, but I've been fighting getting the rack to reseat in place. My after market bushing is a 3 piece - 2 urethane flanges and a solid metal center.

I'm having difficulty getting the urethane flanges to stay flush after I slide in the center piece. I used the mounting bolt with 2 large washers to press them in flush, but when I loosen the bolt they pop out about 1-2mm on each side. I was able to get them squeeze sufficiently to slide the rack into the mounting ears, but it stops with about 1/2" to go. I'm going to go to Harbor Freight and buy a longer pry bar tomorrow. I think that will help.

**Edit - Using a ratchet strap looped on a safe spot directly on the rack under the fluid lines (about 8 inches towards the passenger side) and then under the subframe, the rack came right down and the holes lined up when I tightened the strap.