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rpm inconsistencies upon start up

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Old 02-22-13, 12:30 PM
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RalfyVA
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Default rpm inconsistencies upon start up

lately my '97 has been acting funny upon startup. most times it will start and the rpms will rest at 1,000. other times it seems like it take a "second jump" after the start and rests around 1500. Twice in the last week i have started it and the rpm fell all the way down bobbing in between 0 and 250 or 500. I turned it off immediatley when i saw that and after waiting a couple seconds, it starts regularly. but not everytime. Any ideas?
Old 02-22-13, 01:56 PM
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hypervish
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Clean the IACV.
Old 02-22-13, 10:40 PM
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Hayk
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Funny enough, I've been having the same issue lately. The needle drops to around 100-200RPM before the engine recovers itself and gets up to normal cold idling speed (1200-1500RPM). I cleaned the IACV 1.5 year ago, so I'm gonna give it a shot and see if that helps.
Old 02-28-13, 01:13 AM
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RalfyVA
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let me know what happens Mr. Booby. I whiped out the inside of the (part where the air goes in. word slipped my mind because its late and i dont know much) but couldnt get to the IACV because of a stubborn screw. Its only dropped down way low on me once since then but still isnt consistant on idle rpm. sometimes its 750-900 sometimes its 1250
Old 02-28-13, 04:52 AM
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moonphase
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Originally Posted by RalfyVA
let me know what happens Mr. Booby. I wiped out the inside of the (part where the air goes in. word slipped my mind because its late and i don't know much) but couldn't get to the IACV because of a stubborn screw. Its only dropped down way low on me once since then but still isn't consistent on idle rpm. sometimes its 750-900 sometimes its 1250
The air goes into the "throttle body". A quick way to clean the IACV is to remove the air tube at the throttle body. there will be one hole going down in front of the throttle plate, and two holes going down from behind the throttle plate as you hold the throttle open manually. Take a small plastic zip tie, or thin string trimmer line and use it to probe those three holes to loosen any stuck carbon and then vacuum debris from the three holes.
When you clean the throttle body, you can hold the throttle plate open and clean the back side also. clean the shaft pivot points well. The Haynes manual advises not getting any cleaner on the throttle position sensor. I take that to include from inside the throttle body.
At the other end of the intake manifold you can remove the five bolts holding the ACIS valve and clean that area also, but don't drop anything down the intake runners!
The mass air flow meter might also need cleaning with maf sensor cleaner. Just remove it from the air box, spray with the maf cleaner, let dry, and reinstall.
Old 02-28-13, 07:21 AM
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rlx101
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throttle body - if its has not been cleaned in a very long time.
Old 03-04-13, 04:48 PM
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RalfyVA
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cleaned the IAC and the throttle body, fixed the problem so far. Wasnt really that dirty to me but then again i dont exactly know what carbon looks like. lol. thanks for all the help guys
Old 03-04-13, 09:38 PM
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Hayk
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I also did the same. Was too lazy to remove the throttle body, so I just sprayed a bit of Carb Cleaner into the IACV opening - seemed to have done the trick. The car doesn't want to stall anymore.
Old 03-28-13, 12:41 PM
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RalfyVA
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havnt had the issue scince i did the cleaning. However, start up still isnt as smooth as Id like it to be. The first start of the day always cranks for about 1-2 seconds before turning over and the rpms at about 1500 slowly decreasing.. if i start it quickly after turning it off(stopping at gas station, etc.) its starts smooth and Idles right at about 750. My mechanic took a look at the spark plugs and said they were fine, but didnt check the rear 3 because they are hard to get to. any possibility the front 3 are good but the rear 3 need to be changed?
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