vintagelex

So the front valve cover gasket has been leaking on our car for years, and the entire front of the engine is covered in nasty, sticky, black oil residue. I'm gonna be changing the gasket, so I also wanna clean up the area a little bit. What is the best way to clean this, any thoughts? Also, is it good to clean the inside of the valve cover while I have it off or should I just let it be?

01LEXPL

iTrader: (10)

my vc didn't have any crazy build up on the inside or tarnished, so i left it alone. Otherwise hit the insides thoroughly with brake cleaner [valve cover] let it dry. I doubt you'll need to do it anyways.

The motor is detailing it as you would any car. Degreaser, rinse & repeat as necessary.

Hayk

iTrader: (1)

+1 Make sure the engine is not hot, or else you risk causing some thermal damage to the exhaust. Get a bottle of concentrated Simple Green and apply it liberally to the affected area. Scrub with a stiff long handle brush and rinse. Repeat as necessary. I recommend covering the alternator with a plastic bag and being cautious around electrical connectors, just to be safe. If you have a leaf blower, you can also blow off any excess water afterwards, but it's not required. Just run the engine for a bit to get it warmed up and to help evaporate/shake off any standing water.

vintagelex

Thanks for the tips, I'll get some de-greaser and just use that. Also, since I'm guessing you guys have had to do your valve cover gaskets before, how important is it to torque the bolts exactly to spec? I have the service manual with all the torque specs but I don't want to have to go out and buy a torque wrench for this, especially since the only ones at autozone are 1/4 inch drive and the set of sockets I have won't work with that...

Hayk

iTrader: (1)

I don't think a torque wrench is required for this job. The only torque sensitive bolts are for the valve covers and the intake plenum. I hand tightened the valve cover, because I've heard of people over torquing the bolts and snapping them. The intake plenum can just as well be done manually, you kind of a get a feel for it. Using a breaker bar helps reduce any flex between the socket and the driver, so you get a more consistent force. Good luck, it's not fun.

01LEXPL

iTrader: (10)

Until its tight, then half a turn.

vintagelex

That seems like a good idea, I'll try going with that. I just don't want to snap one of those bolts, that's all. Oh and did you guys use anti-sieze on the threads of the bolts when you did yours, or is it not too important for this?

01LEXPL

iTrader: (10)

^ I didn't, as it isn't required.

Mattrob

My 96 also had years of dried oil covering the front part of engine. I used a small electric pressure washer, engine degreaser and a few cans of brake cleaner for a final rinse. Caution around anything other than metal surfaces with the pressure washer. Used compressed air nozzle wand to blow of grease and residue in hard to reach areas. Once you degrease you will be able to find those source of leaks. Areas to look for as i found were: Valve cover gaskets, Camshaft Seals, Cranshaft Seal(wait until timing belt change).

Also, i had a major leak that i had trouble diagnosing. Of all places it was leaking from the oil level dip stick tube O-ring, traveling down front of oil pan #1, down behind crank pulley dripping from rear of oil pan. It also leak around the other side past the oil filter then to hot exhaust pipe. Made me think it was from oil filter o-ring and oil pan though. Good luck!