Dougg62

I have a 2004 ES330 with 207K miles on it.
The original pads were replaced at 117K miles as I was feeling a bad vibration when I hit the brakes. Usually notice this at higher speeds like on the interstate.

The original rotors were replaced at 158K miles (and also new pads at that time) due to the same vibration issue.

I am now having the same issue again and the dealer says that while the pads have very little wear on them (8/12 ft & 9/12 rear), the rotors need replaced. I suggested turning them but they said there was not enough metal left on them to do so and I would need new ones and that new pads were much advised as apparently they wear to the rotors.

After much arguing with the dealer that wearing out rotors (and the replacements were the same ones used by Lexus on the original) at under 50K miles while getting over 3 times that much with the original rotors, something was wrong, and he agreed to do the repair at 1/2 price. I had also asked him to check the strut bushings in the event that was the problem and they checked out ok.

A few questions:
1. Is there something that would cause the rotors to go out so quickly (compared to the factory)?

2.Will replacing them again fix the problem? He is willing to do the fronts only at 1/2 price, I would need to pay full price for the rears. Is there a chance the rears would be causing this or is the issue pretty much the front rotors and pads?

Thanks for any advice!

mitmaks

I would say do your own brake job, it's not hard at all. I would measure rotors with micrometer to see how thick they are.

Dougg62

I probably could do so given some time and guidance from the internet but at this point have absolutely no time for any additional projects.

There is no doubt the rotors are worn with the vibration I feel.

I asked the questions to be able to have an intelligent discussion with the dealer and to make sure he is being square with me.

hypervish

The vibration you are feeling is run-out. Usually people attribute this to warping due to riding the brakes going down hills, or driving through a puddle while the brakes are hot. But, a lot of the time this is because of unevenly torqued wheels.

Did the vibration start after having any work done involving removing the tires? If so, it's likely the person didn't use a torque wrench and caused the rotor to have excessive run-out.

Dougg62

I honestly don't remember when it started, either the first time I replaced the pads only at 117K or the most recent time after replacing both rotors and pads.

While I'll admit I can be fairly aggressive when driving, the last thing I do is ride the brakes so I would rule that out.

I am diligent about rotating and balancing the tires every 5K miles and have done so since buying the car. I get the lifetime R&B when I buy tires (currently Michelin MXV4) and have done this for years on several vehicles. The most recent work has been done thru Discount Tire, and before that either Costco or Raben (local dealer).

I can make sure torque is done from here on after I get the new rotors.

mitmaks

Also depending on pads, some pads are more agressive than others ie semi-metallic pads will wear out rotors much faster than ceramic.

artbuc

A number of brake experts believe almost all brake pulsation issues come from pad deposits on the rotors, not rotor run-out. What kind of pads did you put on? Try cleaning by doing a few hard stops:

http://www.the370z.com/brakes-suspen...eposits-4.html

The StopTech website appears to be down right now but the referenced article is worth reading once it becomes available.

Humble

I'd recommend redoing all four calipers, rotors, mounting brackets, and brakes. Just get them all done, and its withing a reasonable price range whether you do it yourself or get it done and a shop and hopefully that'll accomplish two things:

1. Take the guess work out of which caliper is acting up.

2. All new stuff! Never hurts to just put all new hardware on your vehicle.

And with the milage, I'd totally suggest just doing all of them anyway.

Best of luck.

hypervish

Yes, I forgot to mention that.

Pad deposits can primarily occur when doing a hard stop and then holding the brakes causing the hot pads to deposit material onto the rotor. Best way to avoid this is, if you brake hard for a traffic light or whatever it is keep the car rolling just a tad enough that the pad isn't in contact with the rotor at the same place.

There's no need to throw on new calipers. I'd certainly lube up the slide pins, but replacing the calipers is just a waste of money.

Dougg62

So it it is pad deposit would hard stopping help? Seems I do that every time I am on the interstate.
Would a few do it or should I follow the whole bedding process described on the linked site?

The pads were ceramic last time:
Brake Pad Set Pro-ACT Ceramic w/shims ACT906 $112.84
Brake Pad Set Pro-ACT Ceramic w/shims ACT885 $119.12

Would like nothing better than to not have to spend anything on repairs right now.
To that point, makes sense to me to do the fronts (shop will only discount work on the fronts) and if that works fine, if not THEN do the rears?

mitmaks

I run slotted rotors on my daily driver and I like them

MikeLex

Is there any aftermarket brand of rotors you guys suggest?

hypervish

From what I've read, most rotors are manufactured in one warehouse. They simply box them differently. You are really just paying for the name.

If you are looking for a budget rotor, I recommend Centric C-Tek. They are cheap compared to other rotors, and they perform well. If you want to pay a little more and get a quality rotor, take a look at Brembo rotors.

gulffishin

I recently replaced my front brakes on my 03 ES due to a spongy pedal and vibration when braking. My pads were replaced by the dealership about 45k miles (3yrs) ago and I figured it was time and decided to do it myself. When I took the wheel off I noticed the pads still had about 80% of the material left and just the top corners of the pads were showing significant wear. I knew something wasn't right. Turns out the bottom caliper pin was completely frozen in place with rust on both sides! I finally got them out after several minutes with the air chisel, hammer, and a vise. Then I dremeled out the rust, greased new pins/boots, new pads, and rotors and it stops on a dime with no vibration and no spongy pedal.

I would have replaced the caliper mounting brackets if any local parts store or dealer had them in stock, but I didn't have time to wait for them to order them.

Good luck!