Starting problems galore!!!
11-28-13, 03:50 PM
#16
it sounds like a charging issue and a very fast battery drain
you possibly are draining the battery somehow
any recent wiring or new electronics added?
the wires that go to battery the positive and ground check for corrosion. If theres corrosion then thats another possible reason for bad charging which means car will most likely only start on a fresh charge or jump.
The wires that go to the starter and alternator(mainly) check there for corrosion as well.
The corrosion is white or green you can clean it off with a wire brush and try everything again with a fresh battery.
Another thing if you have a multimeter you need to place it on the battery terminals after the fresh charge. It will give your voltage reading. With the car off check to see if its draining(the voltage is lowering). If its lowering with the car off than thats a hard problem to fix over the interweb.
If its not draining with the car off than try it with the car running. Give it 30 seconds for the alternator to give its all and if the voltage starts to continuously drop than you need a new alternator.
I hope its simple but cars suck like that
let me know if the power drains with the car off i have some things you can try to isolate the problem
you possibly are draining the battery somehow
any recent wiring or new electronics added?
the wires that go to battery the positive and ground check for corrosion. If theres corrosion then thats another possible reason for bad charging which means car will most likely only start on a fresh charge or jump.
The wires that go to the starter and alternator(mainly) check there for corrosion as well.
The corrosion is white or green you can clean it off with a wire brush and try everything again with a fresh battery.
Another thing if you have a multimeter you need to place it on the battery terminals after the fresh charge. It will give your voltage reading. With the car off check to see if its draining(the voltage is lowering). If its lowering with the car off than thats a hard problem to fix over the interweb.
If its not draining with the car off than try it with the car running. Give it 30 seconds for the alternator to give its all and if the voltage starts to continuously drop than you need a new alternator.
I hope its simple but cars suck like that
let me know if the power drains with the car off i have some things you can try to isolate the problem
After installing a new starter, new starter relay, and a new battery, the car started right up and was fine for about 7 or 8 more starts, then it would not turn over again. My buddy brought his test meter over again the next morning and we found that the new battery was at 12.4 volts, just fine. When we turned the key this time it started right up again with no problem. While it was running we tested the alternator and it was found to be charging at 14.5 volts, so no problem there either.
11-30-13, 01:16 PM
#19
I know this might be irrelevant, but hopefully it will spark some thoughts that might help you out. I once had a Crank but No Start. It turned out to be a loose connection at the fuel pump. All I had to do was adjust the gap in the electrical connector and it fixed the issue.
12-02-13, 08:32 AM
#20
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: CA
Posts: 14
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
This is hardly worth a response. Did you read the original post at all, or any of the subsequent posts I made?
12-02-13, 08:39 AM
#21
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: CA
Posts: 14
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
You need to watch this video for your starting problems troubleshooting. Don't just go replacing parts, there was nothing wrong with starter in first place.
Diagnosing Starter Problems- EricTheCarGuy - YouTube
No Crank, No Start Diagnosis - EricTheCarGuy - YouTube
Diagnosing Starter Problems- EricTheCarGuy - YouTube
No Crank, No Start Diagnosis - EricTheCarGuy - YouTube
"This ain't my first rodeo son". But hey, what do I know. I've only been working on my own vehicles for about 38 years now.
12-02-13, 08:46 AM
#22
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: CA
Posts: 14
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I think you're having an electrical connection issue. And it's probably somewhere in the starting system, such as the ignition cylinder.
I was first thinking that you were having a parasitic draw, but it doesn't make sense for the car to die after only 30 minutes. In addition, you said the battery tests out fine. Lastly, I was thinking about starter solenoid contacts, but you said the starter has been replaced (which includes the contacts).
I was first thinking that you were having a parasitic draw, but it doesn't make sense for the car to die after only 30 minutes. In addition, you said the battery tests out fine. Lastly, I was thinking about starter solenoid contacts, but you said the starter has been replaced (which includes the contacts).
To be honest I don't recall. (Why? What would this indicate or not?) I'll take a peek when the wife brings it home after work. However the problem hasn't reoccurred for almost a week now. It's been starting up just fine.
12-02-13, 08:51 AM
#23
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: CA
Posts: 14
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
12-02-13, 08:59 AM
#24
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: CA
Posts: 14
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
it sounds like a charging issue and a very fast battery drain
you possibly are draining the battery somehow
any recent wiring or new electronics added?
the wires that go to battery the positive and ground check for corrosion. If theres corrosion then thats another possible reason for bad charging which means car will most likely only start on a fresh charge or jump.
The wires that go to the starter and alternator(mainly) check there for corrosion as well.
The corrosion is white or green you can clean it off with a wire brush and try everything again with a fresh battery.
Another thing if you have a multimeter you need to place it on the battery terminals after the fresh charge. It will give your voltage reading. With the car off check to see if its draining(the voltage is lowering). If its lowering with the car off than thats a hard problem to fix over the interweb.
If its not draining with the car off than try it with the car running. Give it 30 seconds for the alternator to give its all and if the voltage starts to continuously drop than you need a new alternator.
I hope its simple but cars suck like that
let me know if the power drains with the car off i have some things you can try to isolate the problem
you possibly are draining the battery somehow
any recent wiring or new electronics added?
the wires that go to battery the positive and ground check for corrosion. If theres corrosion then thats another possible reason for bad charging which means car will most likely only start on a fresh charge or jump.
The wires that go to the starter and alternator(mainly) check there for corrosion as well.
The corrosion is white or green you can clean it off with a wire brush and try everything again with a fresh battery.
Another thing if you have a multimeter you need to place it on the battery terminals after the fresh charge. It will give your voltage reading. With the car off check to see if its draining(the voltage is lowering). If its lowering with the car off than thats a hard problem to fix over the interweb.
If its not draining with the car off than try it with the car running. Give it 30 seconds for the alternator to give its all and if the voltage starts to continuously drop than you need a new alternator.
I hope its simple but cars suck like that
let me know if the power drains with the car off i have some things you can try to isolate the problem
I already checked the new battery and the alternator. The new battery hasn't shown any signs of draining at all and the alternator is charging just fine. Battery keeps 12.4 volts constant, and alternator charges at 14.5 volts.
12-02-13, 09:05 AM
#26
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: CA
Posts: 14
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
The only thing that I have noticed is that when it didn't start the last few times it was right after it had been driven a while. If it sits for a time it starts right up. But since the problem seems to have disappeared I'm not touching anything else until it happens again multiple times.
12-02-13, 09:09 AM
#27
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: CA
Posts: 14
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I know this might be irrelevant, but hopefully it will spark some thoughts that might help you out. I once had a Crank but No Start. It turned out to be a loose connection at the fuel pump. All I had to do was adjust the gap in the electrical connector and it fixed the issue.
Since my problem was "no crank, no start" I don't think it's an issue with the fuel pump. But I'll keep that in mind for future reference.
12-02-13, 02:48 PM
#28
Driver School Candidate
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: georgia
Posts: 15
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
need more info
Thanks everybody for responding. MR.Bobby I think you maybe right I was looking over the car again and I remembered last time car started I was in neutral. So I put it in neutral car started up just fine. I put back in park turned car off and got nothing when I tried to restart it. I got out of the car and I was able to push the car back forth about a foot or so easily like the car was in neutral but it was in park. Any info how to fix? video would be nice if it is a simple job
12-02-13, 02:58 PM
#29
Driver School Candidate
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: georgia
Posts: 15
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I think you're having an electrical connection issue. And it's probably somewhere in the starting system, such as the ignition cylinder.
I was first thinking that you were having a parasitic draw, but it doesn't make sense for the car to die after only 30 minutes. In addition, you said the battery tests out fine. Lastly, I was thinking about starter solenoid contacts, but you said the starter has been replaced (which includes the contacts).
Lastly, it could be something as simple as a neutral/parking switch in the transmission. Check your linkages.
p.s.: In the times that the engine does not turn over, when you turn your key to the ON position (NOT cranking), do you see all the warning lights, as well as the CEL?
I was first thinking that you were having a parasitic draw, but it doesn't make sense for the car to die after only 30 minutes. In addition, you said the battery tests out fine. Lastly, I was thinking about starter solenoid contacts, but you said the starter has been replaced (which includes the contacts).
Lastly, it could be something as simple as a neutral/parking switch in the transmission. Check your linkages.
p.s.: In the times that the engine does not turn over, when you turn your key to the ON position (NOT cranking), do you see all the warning lights, as well as the CEL?
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post