Highest Mileage ES
#17
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Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: TX
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Cheaper than car payments
The 1994 Lexus had a couple of differences with its implementation of the 1MZ-FE power train. Overall, the largest problem I've had are fluid leaks and dash illumination. The 1994 had cooling fans powered by the power steering pump, it it was the first to leak, but also slow leaks developed around the reservoir bottle as the hoses became brittle - since the fluid can follow the hose, check that first. Brittle describes a lot of the later mileage issues. Valve cover gaskets started leaking, then finally the center tube rings around the spark plug tubes gave out. The back of the engine was the worst. they were hard as stone and fell off in chunks as I removed them (bending the retaining tabs). The cross-over hose under the intake manifold leaked (other hoses had been replaced) then burst. I went through all the trouble to change it and swap out the other hoses, but a year later the center plate engine cover had a slow leak and required a cleaning and new RTV. The old RTV was dust. As far as emissions, the rear O2 threw a code out, and the EGR needed to be replaced at year 18. I've had to replace most electrical connecters (they are all available new) since they started falling apart. Worst were injector connectors. The clamps by the wiring harness don't make it through the second timing belt change, but I've noticed that Toyota rerouted the harness in later years to make this easier.
The elecroluminescent speedo and tach needles failed in segments around year 14 and the A/C controls lost back lighting. Both were expensive parts, but I changed them out. Junk yard parts all had the same problem or worse.
Shocks (struts) lasted past 170K (17 years), but the upper isolators, spring cushions, dust shields, and bumpers were either rotted or worn through making noise.
I replaced the CV joint boots, then just started getting rebuilt shafts. The last ones have lasted well.
I had to replace the computer once as the car wouldn't shift into 4th. This was perhaps the most difficult thing for me to diagnose. I had to capture frame data (the car IS ODB-II in 1994) and work through diagnostic maps. The last step was replace computer!
The washer bottle developed a leak (maybe because of a love tap on that corner of the bumper).
Radiator replaced around 14 years.
The car has the original headlight bulbs, and about 4 of the other bulbs needed replacement. When one goes, I usually replace its twin on the other side. Power antenna mast lasts about 3-4 years. The replacement parts must be sitting on a shelf as long as my car has been on the road.
A couple engine mounts failed, and strangely the tube between the aircleaner and throttle body developed a crack. I decided to replace all of the vac. hoses (and the tube). Some were hard as rock from heat and time. After I did this (around year 19) the car starts after 2 starter spins. Which reminds me I had to replace the starter and alternator each once.
This may all sound like a lot, but over the last 10 years (of the 20 I owned the car), spread out it isn't that bad. Except the coolant cross over hose, nothing has come close to leaving me stranded (though not many would drive a car when it is 104 out with no A/C like I did for a week).
Car still has original rear engine oil seal. I think this is the next to go because it and the oil pan are the only oil seals still original.
Having ODB-II has been great, but when thinking keep/replace, I remember that I have only two 20 year old airbags, and a car designed on a computer less powerful than an iPhone to protect me from a DWI in a Dodge Ram.
Living in Texas means no rust, but heat and ozone are probably the biggest killers of plastics on this car. When I head to a pick-a-part junk yard, I typically look for wiring harness clips from cars that came from the North. Mostly I see XV20 generation (1997-2001) hitting the lot. All of the XV10s have been crushed within the last two years.
The elecroluminescent speedo and tach needles failed in segments around year 14 and the A/C controls lost back lighting. Both were expensive parts, but I changed them out. Junk yard parts all had the same problem or worse.
Shocks (struts) lasted past 170K (17 years), but the upper isolators, spring cushions, dust shields, and bumpers were either rotted or worn through making noise.
I replaced the CV joint boots, then just started getting rebuilt shafts. The last ones have lasted well.
I had to replace the computer once as the car wouldn't shift into 4th. This was perhaps the most difficult thing for me to diagnose. I had to capture frame data (the car IS ODB-II in 1994) and work through diagnostic maps. The last step was replace computer!
The washer bottle developed a leak (maybe because of a love tap on that corner of the bumper).
Radiator replaced around 14 years.
The car has the original headlight bulbs, and about 4 of the other bulbs needed replacement. When one goes, I usually replace its twin on the other side. Power antenna mast lasts about 3-4 years. The replacement parts must be sitting on a shelf as long as my car has been on the road.
A couple engine mounts failed, and strangely the tube between the aircleaner and throttle body developed a crack. I decided to replace all of the vac. hoses (and the tube). Some were hard as rock from heat and time. After I did this (around year 19) the car starts after 2 starter spins. Which reminds me I had to replace the starter and alternator each once.
This may all sound like a lot, but over the last 10 years (of the 20 I owned the car), spread out it isn't that bad. Except the coolant cross over hose, nothing has come close to leaving me stranded (though not many would drive a car when it is 104 out with no A/C like I did for a week).
Car still has original rear engine oil seal. I think this is the next to go because it and the oil pan are the only oil seals still original.
Having ODB-II has been great, but when thinking keep/replace, I remember that I have only two 20 year old airbags, and a car designed on a computer less powerful than an iPhone to protect me from a DWI in a Dodge Ram.
Living in Texas means no rust, but heat and ozone are probably the biggest killers of plastics on this car. When I head to a pick-a-part junk yard, I typically look for wiring harness clips from cars that came from the North. Mostly I see XV20 generation (1997-2001) hitting the lot. All of the XV10s have been crushed within the last two years.
#18
The only true way to verify if this is true is to run a car fax and see the title change history with the mileages or the yearly or bi yearly registrations to see the changes in miles from year to year.
I have no doubt these cars can run 400,500,600k miles with good maintenance.
#19
Lexus Test Driver
The cluster can be hacked and reprogrammed with any mileage because this information is stored in non volatile memory on the board-chip.
The only true way to verify if this is true is to run a car fax and see the title change history with the mileages or the yearly or bi yearly registrations to see the changes in miles from year to year.
I have no doubt these cars can run 400,500,600k miles with good maintenance.
The only true way to verify if this is true is to run a car fax and see the title change history with the mileages or the yearly or bi yearly registrations to see the changes in miles from year to year.
I have no doubt these cars can run 400,500,600k miles with good maintenance.
#20
The cluster can be hacked and reprogrammed with any mileage because this information is stored in non volatile memory on the board-chip.
The only true way to verify if this is true is to run a car fax and see the title change history with the mileages or the yearly or bi yearly registrations to see the changes in miles from year to year.
I have no doubt these cars can run 400,500,600k miles with good maintenance.
The only true way to verify if this is true is to run a car fax and see the title change history with the mileages or the yearly or bi yearly registrations to see the changes in miles from year to year.
I have no doubt these cars can run 400,500,600k miles with good maintenance.
http://www.taninautoelectronix.com/G...do_correct.htm
Let us know if you all have any questions on this at all. We are always happy to help out!
__________________
TANIN AUTO ELECTRONIX
262-456-4147
contact@taninauto.com
www.taninautoelectronix.com
TANIN AUTO ELECTRONIX
262-456-4147
contact@taninauto.com
www.taninautoelectronix.com
#21
Lexus Champion
#22
I have 2 1997 es300s. One has 318k the other has 256k.
See my profile for pics of my "twins".
The one with 318 had the timing belt changed at 90k by the original owner, I bought it with 170k.
I have skipped the belt change twice now and plan to see just how far it will go.
Point is, it's okay to past a bit. Ha.
Troubleshooting is great with two of these as you can just swap suspect parts to check.
Lex
See my profile for pics of my "twins".
The one with 318 had the timing belt changed at 90k by the original owner, I bought it with 170k.
I have skipped the belt change twice now and plan to see just how far it will go.
Point is, it's okay to past a bit. Ha.
Troubleshooting is great with two of these as you can just swap suspect parts to check.
Lex
i have parked it though because I picked up an 07 IS350 in August. I might run the ES in winter but I'm probably going to have too much fun with rear wheel drive in the snow. Been a long time since I did some serious doughnuts.
Lex
#23
Advanced
iTrader: (3)
I bought a 2004 ES in 2007 with 38K miles on it. Paid $19.2K.
Sold it in July for $2K with 187K miles on it.
All I did was standard maintenance , Oil changes every 5K miles, brakes, filters, batteries and tires.
Never did timing belt.
So basically drove it 15K miles per year and cost me less than 2K per year.
Bought a 2013 GS 350 AWD this year and hoping to have similar reliability success.
My plan is to drive it 8-10 years and move on before clocking 200K miles.
Sold it in July for $2K with 187K miles on it.
All I did was standard maintenance , Oil changes every 5K miles, brakes, filters, batteries and tires.
Never did timing belt.
So basically drove it 15K miles per year and cost me less than 2K per year.
Bought a 2013 GS 350 AWD this year and hoping to have similar reliability success.
My plan is to drive it 8-10 years and move on before clocking 200K miles.
#24
Lead Lap
iTrader: (1)
I bought a 2004 ES in 2007 with 38K miles on it. Paid $19.2K.
Sold it in July for $2K with 187K miles on it.
All I did was standard maintenance , Oil changes every 5K miles, brakes, filters, batteries and tires.
Never did timing belt.
So basically drove it 15K miles per year and cost me less than 2K per year.
Bought a 2013 GS 350 AWD this year and hoping to have similar reliability success.
My plan is to drive it 8-10 years and move on before clocking 200K miles.
Sold it in July for $2K with 187K miles on it.
All I did was standard maintenance , Oil changes every 5K miles, brakes, filters, batteries and tires.
Never did timing belt.
So basically drove it 15K miles per year and cost me less than 2K per year.
Bought a 2013 GS 350 AWD this year and hoping to have similar reliability success.
My plan is to drive it 8-10 years and move on before clocking 200K miles.
Either way, these cars are fantastic and I've grown to love the Lexus brand over the years.
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